1983 WR430 - How to set timing

Can anyone give a quick tutorial on how to set the timing on this bike?

I have little knowledge on timing setup on 2-strokes so it would be best to give the "assume I know nothing tutorial".

Pretty sure it has something to do with setting the piston to TDC and adjusting the magneto.

Thanks,

If you PM me with your mail address will I send you some data from the workshop manual.

I'm new to the Vintage Husky World and new to setting the Timing as well. After Reading many of the Forums and Reading some of the Manuals I was more confused than ever on how to do this. From what I can tell there are many ways to do this but the one thing that is pretty much done the same way for most Vintage Huskys. Probably many other Motoplat Bikes to. The newer Manuals have a more clear method and there English Langauge is better and they do the Math of converting to Foot Lbs as well. I see that as of this time there is 130+ people who have Viewed this Thread so there must be some interest.
Tools, A Torque Wrench, Dial Indicator ( best if Metric), 5/64 Drill, Flywheel Puller and some Metric Ball Head Allen Heads and just normal hand Tools.
This is the way I did it on my 82 430. Start by removing the Clyinder Head. Many don't and stick something down the Plug hole but just remove it anyway. If Your going to remove the Flywheel then put a small Block of Wood in the Cylinder and re-install the Head Finger Tight. Now Turn the Flywheel Nut (24mm) Left to remove it. Useing the Puller pop off the Flywheel. You will now see that there are two ways of ajusting the Timing, the 3 Screws that Hold the assembly to the Case and there are 3 more small ones that are near the Center. Look at the Case where the Wires come out and run up the Frame. You will see that the Wires and the Motoplat Adapter Flange are trying to share the same spot. The more advanced the timing the less room You have. I turned the Small Screws Ajustment all the way to the Left so that the Large Screws Ajustment can be as far to the Right and have more room for the Wires. Reinstall the Flywheel Finger Tight.
Rig the Dial Indicator over the Piston (with the Head back off) and Rotate the Flywheel till You find Top Dead Center. Loosen the 3 Large Screws that hold the Adapter to the Case. Now look threw one of the Large Holes near the small Hole on the Flywheel and the You should see the matching Small Hole inside. Slip the 5/64 Drill threw both the Small Holes to lock them togeather. Now Rotate the Locked Flwheel and the Ignition to the Left ( Advancing the Timing) untill the Piston has Droped however many Milimeters Your Engine Specs require. (I set mine at 2mm) . Tighten the 3 Large Screws pull out the Drill and then rotate the Flywheel right and double check that Dial Indicator has TDC in the same place. Put the Block of Wood back in the Cylinder and Torque the Flywheel re-install the Head and Your done. It all sounds kinda complicated but it only takes an hour the first time threw.
I'm sure others who have done this many times will find Errs in my method please Speak up lets make it right.

heres how i do it.
remove the sparkplug. and use a wooden dowl rod about 7 inches long, stick that in the hole.
turn the flywheel by hand, clockwise, very slowly, youll feel the piston come to the top and then make the arc then start downward..
rotate it back. just as the piston hits the top and before it starts the arc, is were i set timming...
both the SEM and Motoplat have a witness hole that lines up with the stator.
a small allen wrench fits nicely in that hole, if your set right, just as the piston hits top, before it starts the arc, the holes will be lined up.
you can set it earlier, but that will make it harder to start, and prone to kicking back...
it will feel faster though...kind of a trade off.