Kelly was kind enough to rush me his new short collar kit to work with his steering damper and IMS tank. Thought I share what I did to get it to work. I used a die grinder, a heat gun and a metal bar.
Another issue I ran into is that with the short link arm installed the screw that holds the tower pin hits the damper body. So I went to the hardware store and bought some shims. I know this is not the correct way to fix this, but these are desparate times. I couldn't cinch down the bolt that held on the link arm or it would bind on the shims. Overall it went well. Just need to come up with a better fix for the link arm. Thanks Kelly for your hard work!
Rather than shim the link arm, could you use a flat socket/allen screw? The countersunk head would sit flush with the link arm Here is a link to various flat head screws. http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-metric-flat-head-socket-head-cap-screws/
Very nice! When I have enough dough saved up I intend to have something very similar. Is that the HDB setup?
Nice to see a fix for the IMS tank to Motosportz Damper mate up. A little more than what I had to do for the Up-tite Damper but sweet for those that have the Motosportz Damper sitting on the shelf because the IMS tank rendered it useless. More choices is a good thing. Support the local guys that make stuff work.
You can ditch the screw and use the bushing for a scotts damper... I used electrical tape to hold the pin in place because I didn't have the bushing. Later,
crap, i forgot to send you the bushing for the pin. no screw to be used there. Sorry. We found a small spring down in the hole under the pin works cool to and you can just push the pin down to release it. I would take those shims off.
I didn't think of that. That's a better idea. I think I have an old Scott's damper laying around. I'll grab the bushing off it. Yep. The first prototype for the TE's. Thanks to Paul at HDB.
My kit arrived yesterday, fine looking hardware as always. It includes the aluminum piece that clamps around the steering head, pin, short arm, and replacement bolt for the arm. No bushing. Am I missing something too? Your suggestion about the spring sounds good, if that is a substitute for the bushing.
I didn't have a spring the right size, so made a spacer from 1/8" vent hose. Easily trimmed to just the right height, drop into the hole then insert the pin. My pin seems a bit different than the one in DarkSide's pictures. The flat area was a bit longer since it poked through the arm enough to barely touch the underside of the damper. I ground down the end so it was flush with the arm. Apart from that, everything went together smoothly. There is zero-clearance, but the stock tank fits with no mods. Will test it out today.
I was soon gonna order a dampner for my wr300. I too have an IMS tank. Yet...it "looks" like theres lots more room on mine compared to the picts here. Am I safer on the WR?
I tried putting my Motosportz stabilizer on tonight. I heated up the tank and flattened the front of it down so it would seat. I got it to seat, but unless I can move it back another quarter of an inch, the holes at the bottom of the tank won't line up with the holes sticking up from the frame -- probably not good for the integrity of the tank if I try munging it another quarter inch. The photo shows how far back the tank is currently sitting. Any advice appreciated. I am sad.
You need to go a little further- use a piece of flat steel to press down- it takes time. Heat, press, reheat, press, see no difference.... heat, press... The heat gun I used was pretty weak- I am glad it was so I did not go too far too fast. It takes patience... YOU Will Gets it
Thanks for the reply. I'll continue to work on it today and will report of my success or failure... Zina
Wish I could be more help but as you can see we made the clamp as small as possible there and still hold the pin. Some tanks are just stupid tight. Some loose.
I had to reform my tank 1/4" or more to fit. It's no problem. Just heat the tank slowly and evenly keep the heat gun moving, don't stop on any one spot. Do it in several tries. Form it, then check it. Make the necessary adjustments.
After a considerable amount of heating, smashing, head scratching, cursing, etc, etc, I got the tank to fit. Stuff is going to rub initially, but I figure it'll rub until it's done rubbing. At that point there will either be an appropriate gap, or something will break. Whatever. That's why tow ropes were made. My next problem: Not sure what's going on here...the pin will not fit in the slot. Slot opening is .2315" and pin is .2340". I can gently hammer the pin into the slot, but I'm guessing that's not how it's supposed to be done. I can use my Dremel to make the pin a little thinner, but I wanted to know if the fit is supposed to be very snug or kinda snug. Or, maybe I'm doing something completely wrong. It would not be the first time...
Sorry about that. We had a small run of those pins with the flats to wide. Hit it with a file. I'll send you a new one if you Email me at motosportz. Snug is what your looking for. Needs to move but not be loose. Kelly Mz