125-200cc Oil questions

Seeing that this is only half an oil thread because you threw the gas/oil question into the mix (no pun intended ) I suggest you only get 1 strike for this thread.
3 strikes and it's off with your head.

I’ve found the WR tranny to be rally picky, that or I just don’t know how to shift well.
Here is what I have tried.

ATF – Low clutch drag, false neutrals

Rotella T – Clutch drag, hard shifting, false neutrals if used more then 1 ride

Amsoil 0-40 and Mobile 1 0-40 – Low clutch drag, easy shifting, no false neutrals as long as I don’t use it more then 2 rides.

Mobile 1 5000 10-40 – works as good as the synthetic but I could hear a lot of bearing noise so I only ran it once.

Delo 400 – I have only ran this once. It seems to work as good as the synthetics. I will have to wait and see if it is good for more then one ride. I think this is what I will run from now on. I have been searching for an inexpensive oil that would work. If money is not a concern I would recommend one of the 0-40 synthetics.


For the motor I have ran either Amsoil Dominator or Inimidator. After a year of use the power valves were clean and wear looked very minimal. When I am jetted right I get very little smoke and no spooge. I run it 32:1. I am sure I could use less but I would rather have better ring sealing and the extra protection.

I am starting to wonder if the whole 2t oil business is a big scam though. I am really tempted to just run something cheap like Pennzoil. Some people have used it for years with no problems and say it burns clean. Since I ride a 125 that is pinned a lot though I have so far just used expensive oil.

I also run 100% Avgas. I think preventing detonation is probably more important then what oil I use. I also like that it is consistent so I can get my jetting sharp. My squish has been cut and I get about 185 pounds of compression cold (stock was 175) and I have bumped the advance a hair so a little extra octane is probably a good idea.

I wouldnt run agip 10 60 in the gearbox....its too expensive and also too heavy....I'd save that for the 4 stroke as its more demanding on oil

I think a good motorcycle grade 10 40 for the gearbox works well....and changing it often gives the best results...I have tried the motul expert gear oil....and I thought it made the clutch grabby...so I just use motul 5100 10 40 now......

On the subject of two stroke oils....I have been using Motul 800 2T...and while it seems to work well....it always seems to run on the "wet" side...even at 50:1....with leaner jetting I still get some spooge:rant:... I spoke with a oil Rep at the last bike show I was at....he mentioned that most of the top racing 100% ester based oils like maxima K2 or motul 800 are designed to have a very high flash point...and dont burn off as easily....so they will spooge a little and stay a bit wet...he recommended that for 80 percent of riders that the standard maxima super M or equivalent(motorex?)with a lower flash point....will burn very dry and smokeless as well.....even at 32 to 40:1....

So I guess your dilution ratio depends on the type oil your running.....but I think I would run it a bit rich at first for break in.....then try to stay as close to 32 to 40:1 at least for a high rev 125.....

I am interested with what you other guys run...what burns clean....what ratio etc...??????

I know ajax has mentioned that his burns very clean and dry with motorex at 32:1

I've always run Amsoil Dominator at 40:1 in both my KTM 300s, and I started the new WR300 off with it at 32:1 per the break-in guide in the manual, and I may just keep it at that.

All 3 of my bikes spooge, and frankly I'm at the point where I just about don't even care anymore. If a bike runs well and doesn't foul plugs, I'm not gonna jet it down lean to the point of pinging just to combat spooge.

After reading what that oil rep said to Troy, I'm thinking maybe a little spooge just means you know you're getting oil down on them rod bearings rather than burning it all off across the top of the piston.

I run Amsoil Dominator at 40-50:1 with Chevron 94 pump premium. When I have torn down my engines I like what I see. I have also used (and liked) Torco GP7 but it became difficult to get locally. I have rebuilt engines running Maxima K2 and they looked really good also.

I think it is difficult to choose a bad oil if you are choosing a top brand synthetic.

Check out this link http://www.maximausa.com/technical/oilmigration.html

It is an analysis of how oil migrates through your engine and recommends mix ratio based on intended use.

As for the trans, I mostly run 10w40 motorcycle oil either Castrol or Pennzoil. I have had good success with it. I'm a big believer in frequent changes but most of my riding is slow technical with lots of clutch abuse. McNutt for you BC boys. I have also used Amsoil 0w40 and I like it but cheap bastard syndrome keeps me in the dinosaur oils because the performance is nearly as good and cost is less. I do use synthetic for hare scramble racing because I prefer the better characteristics for extended use (heat).

Second ride with Delo and it still works good, even when below freezing. It is my new cheap oil of chice.

I use Silkolene Medium, and it lasts for several rides/races. Nice shifting no false neutrals. If it doesn't smell real good, I replace it. And my clutch will last at least a year under normal use.

I have found the Light really good but you have to change it more often. Like every ride. The Heavy I have found to have problems with, real thick stuff.

Well put Gem,...I agree 100%


I use 85W Bel-Ray GearSaver in the gear box, and change it every 3 good rides. It comes out just as bright red as it goes in,....I figure that's a good sign.

Say,...what is the prefered coolant for Huskys among the Cafe brethren? My new WR300 has some kind of bright blue stuff in it now.
What is that?....Agip? I like the looks of it, but I've no idea where to get that around here other than order it on-line. I've always used Honda's Pro-Honda 50/50 premixed stuff in the KTMs,...Is that good enough for the Husky?

I use engine ice. Not really for better cooling but because it is non toxic. That way when I dribble it all over the garage I don't have to care.

Its probably not a good idea to mix the agip coolant with anything thats a different color...


the agip coolant is an E code G11 type........so you'll get the same stuff at your BMW ,VW or Merc. dealer....make sure its G11(blue)

Okay, thanks. I wasn't going to add the Honda stuff to the Agip,...I just meant when it came time to dump the stock stuff would the Honda stuff be alright.

the honda stuff is meant to be replaced every two years....it will work though

the G11 blue(oem) is a long life 5yr coolant....

Well alrighty then!,....see I didn't know that.
Blue G12 stuff it is then!

Now to try and locate a luxury car dealership in this depression ridden
little one-horse podunk town!

Thanks again Troy.

Rusty I appologize for the mix up......the blue coolant is G11 not G12

http://www.agip.eni.it/agip/SchedaP...rina&lang=en&sessionId=8825333&codProd=007936

Transoil Expert from MOTUL in the gearbox.
Its a 10w40 Ester based oil http://www.motul.fr/uk/produits/index.html

I have 3 smokers and all of them share the same recipe: Rotella T 15-40 (non synth) in the gearbox and Klotz R50 32:1 in the tank.

All bikes have an hour meter and the trans lube get changed at 10hrs run time of normal use. If conditions are extreme then I'll change it sooner.

145hrs on my YZ running Klotz and Rotella and never an issue. It works for me.


Also, once the jetting is close the spooge goes away. Jet for the ratio and don't change the ratio for the jetsrofessor: