I'm doing my first valve adjustment on my 610 and the manual is calling for .002 on the lash. Is that right? Wow, that is tiny, at least compared to what I am used to. I dug through all my stuff and the smallest feeler I can find is .005. Guess I have to go buy some more tools!
Yes, that is correct for the TE/SM610. I bought the angled motionpro feeler gauge with 0.002"/0.003" sides. When adjusting I make it a slight loose 0.002" so it ends up about 0.0025". The 0.003" fits too snug then and I call it good.
Gotta get some of those for sure. I bought some cheap gauges and was able to get it done but pretty much ruined the tool. It was like using aluminum foil! This was the first 600 mile service and the intakes were good to go but the exhaust were tight. Very little play if any. Sound normal? The drain plug was pretty clean, just the expected fuzz and the suction screen had a little junk on it. I pulled the clutch cover and checked the other screen and it was spotless. The plug is reading about as lean as the thing feels when I ride it. I really need to get the FI dialed in on this thing.
Interesting about the feeler gauges, mine are nothing special from an auto parts store and they include 0.002, 0.003, and 0.004. Not sure I've ever tried to use the 0.002 by itself though - and I don't have a 610.
It's a challenge to say the least. Theres barely enough room to slide the gauge in and still have enough strength to get it past the foot of the adjuster. Because its so thin it wants to crumble and if you try to guide it with a finger it wants to act like a razor. I finally got smart, or better said stopped being dumb and figured it out. I've seen the motion pro stuff. It's nice and on order.
The motionpro feeler gauge is a solid flat handle with a short piece of 0.002" and 0.003" steel on each end. The short pieces are rounded at the tip. These side in nicely for checking the valves. You still got to be careful when sliding them in, but they really help. Plus, they are angled which helps a lot. FYI.. my intake and exhaust were both on the loose side at 600 miles. I rechecked at 2000 miles and they moved very little.
I had the exact same thoughts, then read the silver spec sheet under the seat, which says 0.05in? then I looked under that and it said 0.05ex, oh, I get it, it said (mm) first too! I found the motion pro tool to very handy http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/tappet_feeler_gauges/
Greetings to all. Has anyone tried more clearance? In the case of my Moto Guzzi Sport, the small valve clearances were to aid in the bike passing EPA emission test. After research, I increased the clearance from .0025 for both intake and exhaust to .005 intake and .006 exhaust. The increased clearance produced a slight performance increase.
Sounds an interesting discussion point if nothing else. You'd have to be a brave man to be the first to try it! Feel free to do so!! I'd be speaking to an expert who knows Huskys inside out before attempting anything radical like that (George from Uptite seems to have the best reputation......)
Well, it is an interesting concept... Fritzcoinc, have you done this to your Husky yet, or only the Guzzi? If only the Guzzi, how many miles ago? Any issues yet? WoodsChick
I agree its not easy to adjust these valves. I went a bit loose so they would always be close, but now its tapping loudly, i will have to go in and tighten them a bit.
Hi folks, Not too sure about setting valve clearances three times bigger than they should be! We usually find with 610`s that they open up to 5/6th between services and they rattle. Riders that consistently use good fuel and keep the revs sensible have less of a problem. The engine will have better performance with the valves set at 2th rather than 6th as the valves are open for longer. You might need to be fairly sensitive to tell though! Mark
My 610 is due to arrive next week. I am researching tunning on several sites. I have had some difficulty adjusting the valves on my 400 As regards the Guzzi, I have used the loose adjustment for some 20K miles now with no ill effects. These greater clearences are used for Eur. models. For the US models the tighter clearance is the spec. So I was not out on a limb making this change. Most advise even greater clearance. Increasing the valve clearance is a tunning method. Greater clearance reduces the duration and overlap but opens the valves more quickly. This change in cam timming normally yields more low end power. I will continue to research the clearance issue and advise. The other big question I have regards the cam chain replacement and replacing the automatic cam chain adjuster with a manual type. The 610fourm on ADV has a great deal of discussion on the matter. Link: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156429 Can anyone advise on this subject? The manual recomends cam chain replacement at 6K mile. But also recomends connecting rod replacement at 6K miles! Cheers!
The service manual has been revised - the latest version makes no reference to replacing the con rod (at all, ever!) and only recommends that the timing chain is checked at 6k miles. You've got to keep an eye on your CCT (cam chain tensioner) on these bikes - they recommend that it needs replacing at 10 clicks out. From what I've read this can be anywhere between 3k and 20k miles!! I believe it's more of a problem with the early ('06) models. I own an '06 (bummer!) but my CCT was at 6 or 7 clicks out last time I checked it (approx 3.5k miles). Regarding the manual tensioner - the jury's still out on that one. Some have fitted them and swear by them - other's aren't so sure. There's plenty of info on SM junkie on both topics (replacing the chain and manual tensioner)
Thanks, yours is the first sensible response I have recieved. The ADV info seemed more panic without technical backround. Am I correct in that my 2000 is the same motor, CCT wise, as current models? Thanks again!
I'm afraid I can't comment on the pre 2006 models as I know nothing at all about them. I seem to remember though that a lot of people were questioning why the chains weren't lasting on the early (i.e.'06) new shape 610s when it was only a revised version of what had been around for years ('98+?). I think this led a lot of people to come to the conclusion that there was a bad batch of timing chains (or poor quality control with the assembly - you must have heard of the counterbalancer and primary drive gear issue!)
Sorry to confuse but I feel I should point out from my post on 01-16-2009 that it is the TIMING CHAIN that needs to be replaced at 10 clicks of the CCT (not the CCT itself!). Just in case anyone mistook what I wrote............
You could also edit that post. I know some forums lock posts after a few days but not on Cafe Husky. For the record in this time zone the post you are referring to was made on 1-15-2009 - interesting!
Hummm, poor quality control on a Italian bike you say? I wish I had a nickel for every time THAT has happened!!! Ah the price you pay for style!!! Please tell counterbalance and prim. gear story. Thanks
I'm surprised you haven't heard it!! A lot of the early '06s would drive fine for a while and then produce a horrendous amount of intermittent vibration (akin to driving over a rumblestrip or so they say!). There are two gears under the clutch cover (I've heard these referred to as the crankshaft nut, primary drive nut, counterbalancer nut and layshaft nut) held onto a shaft with a woodruff key. Both nuts have a tab washer to keep them secured. However it is rumoured that although the tab washer's were flattened over, the nuts weren't tightened correctly in the first place. Some have managed to fix this vibe by simply retightening the nut. Other less lucky people have had the woodruff keys break into several pieces. I'd advise anyone who has an early model (I believe it was confined to them) to check both nuts even if they haven't got the vibe. I've got an '06 and mine were fine (but could have been fixed before I got it!) There's plenty of reading on this subject on SM junkie and ADV rider....
