01 610 Spark Issues

I just aquired a 01 (Manf. date 3/2000) 610. It was given to me buy a friend as my new stuntbike. Trying to get this thing going but it has no spark. It had slight damage to the stator cover (being dropped) but was repaired. For some reason, after sitting for a year it has no spark. I have a very strong mechanical background, but no service manual. So does anyone know resistance or peak voltage specs for stator output? Or primary and secondary resistance thru coil? I really gotta get this thing going as we have a show coming up in a couple weeks and I really am looking forward to stuntin' a Husky. (not many ppl out there, well in the US anyway that I know of using one.) So if anyone has some insight on specs, or can point me in the right direction for a manual I would greatly appreciate it.
If you care to check out some vids, hit up my youtube page. Beleive my username is THEDUKER3 there. Got some good vids of me scraping the rear fender on my R3. lol Thanks

kill switch?? unhook the wire, test it again,,look for dead shorts, ect..
iv ended up with many a no sparky bikes cheap, that had a crusty kill switch.

I wanted to thank BillF for his generous help today. I too just bought a 2000 610-e with no spark,and stumbled upon this thread. I called Bill in desperation after spending much time trying to figure out the problem. Thank you again Bill, your help was genuinely appreciated!

Here is what he suggested:

1) at the stator connector:
-- wires green and white should have a signal (measure with a needle type voltmeter) when touching the exciter coil with a screwdriver (mine passed)
-- wires black and red - should light up a test light when cranking...mine lit up an instrument cluster backlighting light bulb...just barely

Still no start, will continue working on it Monday and keep you guys posted.

Does anyone know what the good stator coils ohm out to be...mine were 109 (green to white) and 259 ohms (red to black) (bike cold....about 70F outside)

--Nick

After a long delay (and much troubleshooting) I finally have a spark! I took my CDI box to try on a friends' bike and it worked, so I concentrated on the stator as the spark plug/lead/coil were also proved to be working. The stator output on red and black wires was about 55-60 VAC cranking with an new 18Ah battery fully charged. My friends 610 showed about the same. Next I check the trigger coil (green and white wires) and saw about 390 mVAC peak when cranking...same as my friends' .....so I figured that maybe when the previous owner tried to repair the stator cover leak/problem, he accidentally flipped the green and white wires at the stator and the CDI would not fire because the pulse polarity was wrong, so I switched the wires......and got the spark!!!


But now the bike still will not start, just backfires into the carb and kicks back severely indicating my timing must be of....but how can it be if the magnets are still glued? and BTW how do you check the timing? All the marks are inside the motor.


I'll keep at it

--Nick

Problem FIXED!

to make a (very) long story short, the previous owner when fixing the stator cover gasket leak, reinstalled the stator 120* from where it should be. Stator has tree mounting bolts, so that is where 120* mistake came from. The wires were also routed wrong as a result.

I still do not know why swapping the white/green wires at the pulser coil resulted in me getting a spark (at the wrong time) vs. no-spark when connected correctly. I had to reverse "my fix" to get the spark with the stator in the right orientation.

I also got a chance to measure new stator resistance values (thank you Moore and Sons of Santa Cruz)

they are: red to black = 259ohms (exciter coil) at about 65F
green to white = 100ohms (pulser coil)

** all the other voltage measurements in the posts above are what you should see when everything is OK

Hope it helps someone with similar issue.


--Nick

that's pretty funny!

It took me that long to realize that my stator was mounted wrong because the wires were re-routed nicely under the litle plate and the whole thing looked factory.

Bill, thank you again for your help,

--Nick

Hello from over the pond, in Jersey Channel Islands, and talk about dragging up an old thread!

I have just joined Cafe Husky after finding this interesting thread with regards to a "no spark" issue on a 2001 Husky TE610e.

I'm in the process of trying to fix a friends bike that wont spark, and have just tried some of the things detailed in this thread. I just wanted to ask, the resistance reading I get for the green/white wires from the trigger coil is 95ohm (those who commented on the original thread stated their's was around the 100-110 mark). How much of a range is there which is classed as good? I've inspected the trigger coil and it does look like its seen better days (although i still get the resistance reading from it).

The poor guy I am helping out isn't mechanically minded at all, and so far two dealers have given him his bike bike without being able to fix it but charged him £300+ (is that $450 ish) for the privilage. He's sunk some serious cash into it without success. So far he has sourced two working CDI's, a new flywheel, new coil/HT lead/cap/plug without sorting his issue. Hopefully if I can sort the bike for him, i can sell some of these parts on to re-imburse some of his costs

I've just done a thorough continuity check on the whole circuit to make sure I have no broken wires, and I've told him that he should really bin his battery as its been sat for some time now not running (even though I've had it hooked up to a trickle charger for a few days now). It could possibly even be the original!!

The kill switch appears to be functioning ok from a simple continuity test.

Any tips/advice would be much appreciated

Kind Regards


Aidan
aidanlever@hotmail.com

The stator has three parts to it. The yellow wires connect to the regulator rectifier and are used to charge the battery etc. The red and black wires are the primary windings. They are wound around a single stator post on the stator and that post points towards the pick up/ pulsar coil when mounted in the side casing. The primary winding (red to black wires) should have a resistance of approximately 270 ohms. The current from this primary winding is amplified and sent to the HT coil so a weak spark is often a sign that the primary windings have a fault (sometimes this occurs as the engine gets hotter which leads to an intermittent spark problem that's difficult to trace).

The green and white wires connect to the pulsar or pick up coil which is the sensor that detects when the raised portion of the rotor goes past it. It should nominally have a resistance of 100 ohms and is used to tell the ECU when to send the amplified primary coil current to the HT coil. The pulsar coil has short leads which are crimped to the green and white wire within the side casing and this crimped region can fray the connecting wires such that the signal from the pulsar coil is affected. The pulsar coil can also be subject to breakdown at temperature due to micro cracks in the windings which pull apart slightly when the engine gets hot. The pulsar coil can be directly replaced if found to be faulty however replacement pulsar coils that work with Kokusan Denki ignitions can often be around 460 ohms resistance. This higher resistance should give a bigger signal to the ECU to start and stop the amplified primary winding current that is being sent to the HT coil. I had to fit a replacement 460 ohms pulsar coil on my 2006 SM610 to address a no spark situation and it has been fine since.

Hopefully this is of use to some.