125-200cc 06 125 WR problems after pistonchange

Hello everybody!
Just recently stumbled across this amazing forum, great to see so many huskylovers at the same place! Perhaps you guys can help me out?
A couple of weeks ago I bought my first husky! Everyone I know is riding KTM:s, but I wanted something different, so I ended up with a husky! Runtime was only 80 hours, but no piston change at all since new, so yesterday I put in a new Wössner piston. That´s when the problem started..
At the same time I thought it would be a good thing cleaning the carburettor up aswell, said and done. The piston change went well, no prolems what so ever. Same with the carb. But today when I fired it up it repeatedly got stuck on high revs and then slooowly returning down to idle. So I took the carb apart again, but couldn´t find anything wrong. Throttle wire seems to run smoothly, I can clearly hear it "clicking" when slide is reaching top and bottom end. A bit bent here and there, but don´t get stuck.
No dirt in any nozzles or pins.
Carb:TMX 38 (new, old? don´t know)
Float setting is 15mm
Pilot is 32,5
other jet and needle stock
Airscrew 1 to 1.5 turns out (It was 1 out before cleansing)
"Slide screw" (don´t know the word for it) can be completely removed and it will still be on the higher revs.
Fuel 98 with a 3% mixture
Sealevel
Is my issue just a carb setting?
Could i´ve done something with the powervalves? It´s set higher up for better low end, but haven´t checked it again since start up.
What could I´ve possibly done wrong?
Please don´t say "get the airstryker carb" or "Lectron is the shit". A Lectron in sweden costs 600 us dollars!

My first re-action is that you have a leak and it is sucking air somewhere. Did you install a new base gasket with the piston kit? Sometimes the cylinder will slightly hang up on the centering pins on the one side of the crankcases. This happens when pulling the cylinder one will partially come out and slightly get cock eye in the slot. Then the cylinder pinches it and doesn't want to seat down all the way. This happens more with the older cylinder and pins. The old style pins were less hearty. Is the carb seating well in the intake side boot? The power valves shouldn't affect anything idle wise and if you were just replacing the piston kit you shouldn't have needed to remove them.

If you can hear a noise when opening and closeing the throttle the nylon retainer is not located in the slide correctly (if fitted to your carb) so may hang up a bit.if not its what Walt said .

New gaskets were put in place and new o-rings aswell. It did got slightly hung up first, but hopefully i manged to get it right. Can i check engine for leaks while running engine? Startergas around gaskets and carb perhaps? If a leak, engine should increase rpm:s for a second while spraying gas, worked on my car once
I will put the carb apart again and check it, and make sure it´s seated well at both ends. The nylon retainer? Is that the white plasticpiece on the spring, wich holds the wire in place inside the slide?
Thanks!

I don't have a 125, but I recently had a similar issue with my 250. Now and again it would high idle for a bit, then be fine. I was sure it wasn't an air leak since it would stop on it's own. In the shop the crab seemed fine. You could hear the slide thump when it closed and operated smoothly. I had a slight kink in the cable, but it didn't seem like much. It never stuck, or did anything strange, but I'd sometimes get this high idle.

Fast forward.

To make a long story short, I finally ended up replacing the cable and the problem went away. I never dreamed that slight bend in the housing would cause that, but it did.

Look closely at the rubber intake boot between the carb and reeds. If you had the reeds out there could also be an air leak at the reed block. Walt probably nailed it but there has been a few cases of torn intake boots and reed gasket air leaks.

I would look at the throttle cable routing, it may be slightly pinched somewhere.

Thanks for all aswers, really appreciated!
Progress going really slow though. Yesterday evening we had midsommer celebrating, got little too "refreshed" So today i´ve spent all day on my sofa doing as little as possible, watching tv and eating pizza
Anyways, new throttle cable ordered. Reeds was indeed taken apart, gasket had seen better days but was in one piece. Probably best to change it. Just remembered that the gasket on the top of the carb is pretty crappy. Better change that one too. Tomorrow it´s garagetime!

And by the way, found a swedish webshop selling plastics and stickers for huskys and most other bikes. Pretty expensive though..Take a look!
http://shop.dekalkit.se/husqvarna/

Wow
Wonder what the exchange rate is?

If I suspect a air leak a shot of carb cleaner to the area will verify by changing the idle.

So today i've spent some time in the garage. Used some tape around suspected carbgaskets and started it up. Worked fine! Removed tape while on throttle and when removing tape on the top of carb rpm took of like a rocket and got stuck. So put tape back and it ran without getting stuck. But now a new problem occured, it got thirsty. "Filled my whole garage and yard with smoke thirsty", with airscrew fully closed! If a fully working carbs airscrew was screwed fully closed, is it possible to start and run the bike? Bike runs ok on idle and giving it throttle it responds without bogging. My first thought was coolant leakage, perhaps it was the cylindergaskets afterall. And carbgasket. So left it running for twenty minutes, fogging the whole neighborhood and then checked coolantlevel, had not changed at all.. My plan right now is to change all carbgaskets and o-rings, start it up and if any problem still remains pull engine apart and put in new cylindergasket..

1 usd = 6,48 sek..

Try re- routing the the cable
That's happened to me

I rode mine a few hours before I realized the airscrew was all the way in. It runs ALOT better with it adjusted correctly but it will run for sure. Very spoogy and smokey too.