250-500cc 06 WR/CR 250 V- Force Reed Block Issues Alternative

Hello all. Here's something to replace that Dogdy reed breaking standard V-Force block in your 250.

I'm from Sunny Queensland Australia. I've got a 2006 WR250. Exhaust and inlet ports mildly ported (I just tidied them up), running a Athena Piston. Using the husky racing expansion Chamber supplied with bike and DEP silencer. I was running a DEP Expansion chamber also but it was a poor fit, the pipe would rub on the rear shock spring and rattle. Even after heating it and manipulating it. Annoying!!

Anyway I was running the V-force reed block that came standard with the bike, the one that is grey and its held together by screws. It was always a fight to get it to run crisp. Would always foul plugs, regardless the jetting crisp or not. No matter what riding you were doing, Flat out fire trails, Mx or Tight enduro loops. Also the power was very much like a "light switch". Was one of the craziest 250's I'd every ridden, really hard to get the power to the ground. I race pony express, cross country and 4 hour enduros and the od Motocross club day. It was quite the hand full over that length of time.

After choking two sets of reeds down. Which I always replace the reeds every rebuild. And being stranded in the bush one day I decided to do some research on a alternative. I know a lot of guys tend to upgrade to the newer V-force 3 block witch is for the Honda CR250. So I figured I the Honda CR V-froce 3 block would fit, How about a standard Honda CR reed cage?

I got from the dirtbike wreckers/dismantlers or whatever you call them where you are from a 2000 model Honda CR250 reed cage. Being that all the part numbers were the same on the V-Force 3 block from 88-2001 I think. The cage cost me about $70 and the Boysen reeds $45.

I got the block and fitted some Boysen Pro series carbon fibre reeds. They are a dual stage reed, which I've been using in my Yamahas and Kawasakis for years.

Here is some pics for some comparison

The standard V-force reed block next to the 2000 Honda CR250 reed block (still with standard fibre glass reeds). The Honda block is thinner by roughly 2-3mm.



The Honda Reed block fitted with Boysen Carbon Fibre Pro Series Reeds.



The Honda Reed block Fitted on the engine. Bolt pattern is the same, I had to file some of the corners of the white plastic insert to flow nicely with the carburetter rubber boot so there was now square edges etc.



Fitted nicely. Had to do some minor jetting.

With the Standard V-force I was running a 30 pilot, 480 main, 2nd from the top on the needle (standard slide #4) air mixture screw 2 turns out. Fuel mix was premium unleaded (95-98 octane) Motul 800 45:1 or 50:1 (depending on the type of riding areas, MX or Trail/Enduro) In a hilly, tropical forest environment, 48 meters above sea level (157 feet).

Updated jetting for the Honda Block was just on the pilot and mixture screw. 32.5 Pilot and 1.5 turns out on the air mixture screw. ( Symptoms - It was holding a high idle then settling down after being on the gas)

The power delivery was changed dramatically. From a light switch like punch un-predictable power curve, to a torquey smooth bottom to midrange pull. With good throttle response. But still kept that MX inspired punch about if you needed it. I rode it in a range of conditions, Hills, Mud sand, Woops, MX tracks. Didnt miss a beat, Nor did it want to foul.

In the past I would fouled a plug at least one every 2 rides regardless on the riding. Has not missed a beat since the install, not a hint of loading up or fouling. Even after idling on cold start up.

Hope my information helped because it was bugging me for years!

Cheers

Blinga

Cool, Yes I had noticed the V-parts in the catalogs but too expensive for my Husky 02 CR 250. I just didn't think to look for an used stock block. Another thing for my list!

Good idea. I have never cared for the V-force and was kicking around maybe getting a Boyesen rad valve for a CR250 for my wr300. In my experience I always thought the rad valves worked a little better.

The RAD valve is a good product, But I dont think it would make a huge difference. Just in Throttle response as do most reeds dual stage reeds. Most claim they make oodles more horse power, but it usually comes down how quickly they can open/close along with volume of flow through them and how well they flow.