125-200cc '08 CR125 with KTM 125 lighting stator: How'd ya do that??

The bike runs, the electrons flow, and the lights light up--ALL AT THE SAME TIME! Here's the background.

Just bought as '08 CR125 for a song, but I want it for northeast enduros--that means head and tail lights. The WR ignition, lights, wiring et. al. was super expensive. Norman Foley mentioned in one of the copious 125 threads that a KTM 125 lighting stator can be made to work in the CR125 with a little soldering. This promised to save some coin, so, undaunted (well, somewhat daunted), I proceeded.

Overall, the project was fairly straightforward. The backing plates for the stators are incompatible between the bikes, so you have to switch the coils from KTM plate to the Husky's, and you need to snip and splice a couple of wires to do that.

The KTM stator I used came from Moose Racing, part number 2112-0214, list price $139.95.

I used the Moose Racing Trailsport Fitting wiring harness. It comes all set up for headlight and taillight, complete with hi-lo-off-kill switch and AC voltage regulator.


Here is the stock CR coil with the flywheel removed. Note only two of the posts are wound.


The Moose Racing KTM 125 stator.


Note all the posts are wound. This unit is rated for 55W.


The KTM stator connections. The stator comes equipped to plug right into a KTM, so obviously the connections are all wrong for this application. However, look at the wire colors and compare to the Husky colors in the next photo.


Except for the yellows on the KTM stator, the colors are the same, and they all lead to the same parts of the coils, so they are compatible. The yellows power the lights; one to the harness, the other to ground.


The Husky's is on the left--the plates are totally different.


You don't need to snip the crank position sensor's wires. I did, but I'm dumb. You need only snip the wires leading to the coil (black with red stripe and red with white stripe), remove the coil from the Husky plate and splice in the KTM coil. The wire colors match right up. Just make sure you screw the coil onto the plate in the right orientation.


KTM stator on the Husky plate.


Wires all soldered up and shrink-tubed.


Mounted up. I ran the yellow wires through the original grommet, but not through the harness wrap--I'm lazy that way.


Torquing down the flywheel using my favorite piece of nylon rope to lock things up. My seven-year-old's hand makes the 125 look like a 500...


Wiring all zip-tied.


And on the 15th day, there was light...


...and smoke.

It went very smoothly, and it works like a charm. Thanks for the tip, Norm!

Very cool. Good Work!

This kit should make it easier to get a CR to pass enduro inspections and in some locales, even get a plate.

Good job! Thanks for taking the time to document this, as it will make it easy for other CR riders. This needs to be stuck.

did you need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off? Also, is the rope the best way to stop the piston while tightening the new flywheel on?

I did a new stator on my 450smr but had trouble with the grommet, what is the best way to get the wires thru it and keep it sealed completely? Thanks for the writeup!

I did use a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off. I had one from my old 1975 Yamaha DT250, and it fit perfectly.

I like the rope trick because it was free. I've tried to lock up motors by wedging rags/screwdrivers/dowels in between the primary drive gears, and all I ended up with was chewed up gears. I've used the rope a couple of times with no trouble, and it totally locks everything up. When you're done tightening, turn the flywheel backwards a little and pull the rope right out.

I actually didn't remove the grommet from the original harness at all. I simply fed the yellow lighting wires through the grommet before putting everything back together.

The more I read this thread, the more I am starting to think that this is THE BEST thread ever started on CH.

Props to you bud. I really appreciate you doing the leg work on this one. I ordered a Moose kit today and am going to turn a CR125 into an "XC125" this weekend.

Thanks again!
Scotty

A big thanks to Fran and Harvey at Bottone's...... They have been doing this mod for a long time and where I got the info for dfeckel.

Service Manager/Suspension Guru/Small Bore Expert Harvey wouldn't be caught dead riding an OFG WR.... CR's all the way!

Thanks to Fran and Harvey.

Pardon my ignorance of things electrical but couldn't you just have the stock one rewound? I thought Bills Motorcycle plus did that for about $100. Would this not be as good of a solution?

Yes you can and yes it would.

Question What would it take to get a CR 125 to put out at least 95 watts
I talked to Baja Dezine and was told that if i want to run either a hid or hallogen light for night racing it would take 95 plus watts.Baja dezine had no idea how i could do that as they had not done one for a Husky I do know of a guy who races a WR 250 with a HID light with no problem How much does a stock Wr 250 put out .

This is a more cost and time effective solution for me as I can install the kit myself and not deal with shipping delays to get the original one rewound.

95 Watts? Hmm...I'm not sure. I think you would have to have the stock stator custom wound for that, and I'm not sure if there is enough room for all the windings (it's a dinky little flywheel) Plus, I'm making the assumption that more wire windings makes for more wattage. I don't really know.

Isn't stock 130W on the WR?

That's what I thought too.