08 TC450 forks

Has any one changed the oil in their forks yet? It is mid season and I am ready to do mine. Problem is I have not ever cracked open a Zok's fork and am wondering if there is a how to posted out there. Looking for special tools and tricks to not ruin my forks.

Thanks
Alex

FYI - Marzocchi works 50 fork manual :

http://www.marzocchi.com/System/5491/9001159 SHIVER50_WEB.pdf

jeff

http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/d...=&mCW=!BOE!$Tfsjf$!>!9952&mCJ=&IDOggetto=8874

This link takes me to hydraulic pumps.

Thanks guys I do have the pdf manual. Any Tech tips for the "Do it to yourselfer"? It's always better to have heard from someone with experience.

Work them like the newer twin chamber style forks from SHOWA or KYB. They are basically the same thing and there's a lot more info on the other two than the Zooks. But, if you have the manual you should have everything you need.

Take extra time to bleed out the internal sealed chamber. It's best to completely drain the old fluid out of the int chamber by stroking the insert while upsidedown. At that point when you go to re-fill it's going to take alot of stroking to bleed out the air and if the original stuff comes out real dirty it's best to flush the int chamber at least once(flush by filling up and stroke just like you're bleeding the valving circuits and then completely drain by again stroking upsidedown). In addition you'll want to get a fat hose clamp and completely squeeze the bladder dry if you can, then seal the upper orifice holes by securing a hose clamp around it, this will allow you to better bleed the valving circuits. This may make no sense, but it's a quick attempt. Make sure you eliminate all and any possible air bubbles out of the internal chamber. If you're wanting to change oil weight, the internal chamber will have the most effect as the main chamber only prevents bottoming and lubes the sliders. These forks are not as sensitive to valving by oild quantity, but it is a bandaid if the forks are over or under sprung.

Also inspect very closely the amount of pre-load on your springs upon first dissassembly, you may notice you have negative preload and slop in the springs at full droop, not ideal. May have to add 5-10 mm of pre-load to correct.

Cool thanks. If it is like my Showa's I am all over it.

Between your SHOWA knowledge, the tips from above and the manual you should be good to go.