I've got a new to me '08 TE250 (1k miles) that has some mods done to it. Looks like the O2 sensor is gone, not sure about mapping, I'll have to research it some more. It runs well when cool, but after it warms up it starts to bog. It will stall after riding some more and eventually won't start. After an extended cool down period it will restart and run some more, only to repeat the process. I can hear the fuel pump run normally (I think) when I turn the key on. The fan doesn't appear to run. I'm use to having a fun run when hot until turning the key off or until the radiator cools down. Any ideas of where to start? Thanks a bunch, John
Does the temp sensor issue allow the bike to crank? Or is it an interlock, like the clutch safety? Mine would crank fine until I killed the battery.
That was one of my ideas as thought on the way home. I thought I remembered valves could cause this problem, but I can't remember why? It will be on my list of things to do and I'm embarrassed that I haven't done a thorough check on the bike after buying it and before riding it seriously.
checking valve lash clearences would be good to do on a new to you bike. also for the problem- look at - intake leaks, coolant temp sensor, where is the idle set?- should be set 1900-2000. electrical: coil connections, battery connections....
It just hit me. The fan not working would also indicate a bad temp sensor. Bike heats up. No fan. No ECU adjustment for temp increase. I'll pull the sensor and put a VOM across it and heat it up.
You can leave the sensor in- just carefully follow the wires with pins (sewing pins work) into the electrical plug- they will make a connection- then put your "VOM" (multimeter: testing for ohms) leads accross the 2 pins- test cold- then test hot. .690 K Ohms ~some varience~ bike cold around 80'F (depending on your outside temps obviously) .162 K Ohms~some varience~ fan should come on around 208'F http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/coolant-temp-sensor-resistance-values-2009-te450.14513/
Two points: Check your valves. If they are tight as it gets hot they close up even more and it wont run. Check your water temp sender, just pull the connector off it when the bike wont run, if the bike runs fine then the sender is faulty (it reads hotter than the engine is so it shuts down the ECU to prevent a failure.) You can see it on ibeat with the graphs running as the temp reading skyrockets from cold. You need to get it on iBeat and check the settings, TPS and CO and fail history, you may be able to improve your performance too! Good luck. Alec
Had same problem with my 09 310 it was the temp sensor when hot tells the engine its cold so dumps in more fuel and stalls bike. Should be good with new sensor.
So, I installed a new temp sensor... And the problem remained. Next step I re-installed the lambda probe... as I was clipping on the battery tender to the positive terminal I notice that it isn't tightened down. It appears to be doing OK now with the battery terminals tight and the lambda probe installed. I still need to do an extended test run to see if it is truly fixed. If it is, I'll remove the lambda probe again and see if it was the battery connection. Stay tuned.
I have heard of the "power up" resistor that you plug in to replace the lambda probe failing, with similar symptoms. If it isn't the battery, I'd try a new power up plug.
did this get resolved? The 08's are kinda a bitch to start and need perfect TPS calibration and I think could use the JD Tuner to help with starting.
