250-500cc 08 WR250 Forks breakdown

Can someone shed some light on breaking down these forks? I'm trying to remove the bottom nut that retains the bottom valve but after breaking the 21mm nut loose, it just spins and will not come out of the fork tube ..

Any ideas on what is happening here?

Here's a pic from the manual that shows the place I'm stuck at now ..

What tool are you using it will come off with air tools

Just a socket and racket ..,The nut comes loose but just spins and the bottom valve(item 41) will not come off from the fork body ...

If you have air tools or an electric impact it will come right out. Do you have those tools? If its not spinning fast the rod inside will just spin with it.

I found the issue (I think) on this thread ..

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/marzocchi-shiver-45-damping-cartridge-holding-tool.13552/

Yep .. that's what happening apparently as I don't have an air wrench ... I'm gonna have to hold it (what ever it is) to get it apart ...

Thanks and I got it apart using a 100% BS tool I pieced together walking around the house and looking ... Not sure how I will get it back tight as the BS tool I made is really too BS for tightening I think ...

The 50MM forks on my 08 TXC250 do not have this hurdle to jump over ....

Here's the issue with removing the bottom compression valve ... It screws into the that inner tube shown here and not the housing ... That ring at the opposite end of the compression valve has holes in it and is the place where you must insert the damping-cartridge-holding-tool (R5081AA) or your own home-made tool so that the tube can be held and the compression valve removed ..

Sometimes you can get them out by leaving the top cap on, flipping them upside down and compressing the fork while wrenching the base valve.

As mentioned above, impact is the easier though.

Compressing the fork sounds like the way to go for me since no impact ...That will be the way I tighten them back up...

I'll probably go back with ATV fluid .... The manual says to add 610cc of 7.5WT oil and 90 mm air volume... Are these numbers anywhere close to what you guys are running? I'll probably try to measure what was in the second fork since it had no leaks ...

Warning to those who use an air impact (I use one and have seen this often on this fork in particular). The base valve/nut assembly is quite heavy on these forks. When hitting it with air, the heavy valve/nut has enough inertia to actually loosen the nut that clamps the piston/valving to the basevalve stem. From the factory it is peened in place but can still loosen. If it's been revavled, it can become extremely loose or even come off. Check the nut upon disassembly or if you are experiencing sloppy damping after a disassembly. Easy does it the stem breaks easily, but the nut should be snug.

I have had them turn even when using an air gun. I made a holding tool by screwing a 8"x3/4" pipe nipple into a 6"x3/4" heater hose and forcing a 21mm 1/2' drive socket on the other end of the pipe nipple. The heater hose is shoved in from the top over the damper rod and into the damper tube.
It takes some of the mystery out of how tight the nut goes back on, because it can be torqued on with a hand wrench.

Gnarly, sweet looking tool ... Got a patent yet? ...

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I inserted the axle back into the fork bottom and used it to compress the fork and the bottom nut tighten up OK ..;

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My fork only had 400cc oil ...Sounds like a low amount to me ... I'm going back with the same amount of 5wt fork oil and same clicker settings ... This 5 wt stuff looks like water almost ...