250-500cc 08 Wr250 Leaking Kick Start

Hey everyone, my engine is leaking oil from the kick start shaft. I’ve looked at several schematics and I can’t tell if there is a seal in there. Can anyone point me in the correct direction to get this fixed?

Thanks

I think it is #21. Part number 800048209 - says it is 20*28*6 which seems about right. I'm sure someone will come along and confirm or correct.

Dunno but I'm interested in this too as mine has developed a leak the past few months. Not much but noticeable when dusty

taps is right, it is a 20 x 28 x 6 seal :



I've got mine from a bearing shop real cheap. The OEM is a single lip seal that I replaced with a double lip NBR seal, as these are better to keep moisture out (pressure washer ..)

Cheers !

How do you change them? Pick old one out & push new one in!

Hey Hurky where did you get that nifty clutch lever extension?

Awesome! Thanks for the info.

Same question...Where did you get that clutch lever extension? Can you shoot a photo of that for me?

With regards to removing the seal, I used a paint can opener and very carefully pried it out. This did destroy the seal, but there aren’t a lot of options for removal.

Now, on to the clutch lever extension. I decided to make my own clutch lever extension. You will notice that I offset the hole where the cable will attach as I didn’t have much play at all and with the hole further away, the cable wouldn’t reach. I have not actually installed this yet as I have to get some bolts and lock nuts, but I think it will work. If I have to make an adjustment to the hole locations, I’ll weld up the mount hole and re-drill it.

Somewhere in this 2T forum is a discussion about clutch extension with a couple different versions. Maybe it was the 300 love thread

I build that extension myself some time ago, It's made out of a 2mm thick steel plate:




It make quite a big difference in clutch pull but there is a downside: You need more clutch lever travel for the same clutch pull, I mean, you will have less movement on the clutch plates for the same amount of clutch lever movement.
In my case I separated the two holes too much and needed to pre-tension the clutch cable quite a lot to still being able to disengage the plates without having too much drag. Later I filed the left hole to reduce this problem.
Now the clutch is still softer but I can disengage the plates fully without having to pre-tension the cable that much.

It's a cheap and easy to do part.

As of removing the old seal, In my case I did change it along with my transmission so the casings were separated, but using some tools like a screwdriver with a folded tip is also an option, you just need to make sure to not scratch the aluminum or you will probably have leaks.

Cheers.

I would say that I even like the feel of a well lubricated clutch cable over the hydraulic stuff I tried (on other bikes)... But I do clean and lubricate the cable often.

I have two Husky 360's with cables and a 2002 KTM 380 with hydraulic, the cable is smoother the hydraulic is more consistent
and I have a 2016 Sherco 300 that has a more modern hydraulic, it is sweet, so newer might just be "gooder"

and seal removal, a drywall screw and a pair of pliers works well