1/4"drive torque wrench

Anyone know where I can find a good one? I would prefer a clicker that you can turn the handle to get a reading in NM & ft/lbs. similar to my craftsman 3/8". What are you guys using?

Proto makes one, because I have one at work. Surely Craftsman does too.

I have a Proto but a dial type not a click. Dial is more accurate and IMO when you are dealing with the small torques associated with inch pounds that degree of accuracy is important.

Nope. I have looked in several of their stores & have asked the sales people. Maybe in their catalog?

Are you talking about dialing the handle & it doesn't click when it hits the value? or a dial similar to a clock?I have a pointer type 1/2" drive that points to a value, but I'm not comfortable with it's accuracy. I can move the handle accidently to any position including 0.

Sears has several on their site, but you're right, no Craftsman. Did find some on ebay also.

I've always liked the beam type with the little ball for a handle for an inch pound 1/4 in. drive torque wrench. You can watch to beam and get a better feel if the threads are sticking when you approach the desired torque where a click type would simply click and you may not realize the screw in under torqued. The other plus is the beam type never need calibration and they are the least expensive to buy. Here is a KD for $37


http://www.google.com/products/cata...JyTebYFYLpgQeinP0y&ved=0CEAQ8wIwAg#ps-sellers

I'm talking about a dial similar to a clock with a memory needle that is pushed along by the primary needle.

This dial type in your picture is the same in function as the beam type and to calibrate you simply zero the dial before you start. These are excellent and I own them in several sizes but they are usually quite a bit more expensive. I was using them daily while building automatic transmissions. A home hobby mechanic could get by with the cheaper one I linked to and it is just as accurate.

The type I don't like makes an audible "click" when it reaches the setting and must be sent off to be re-calibrated. These click type are quicker for production since you don't have to look at anything just pull until it clicks but I have found them to be inaccurate at the lighter pound settings.

+1

A rule of thumb that some people go by is that it is best to use a torque wrench in the middle 60 percent of its range for the most accurate readings. So if you have a 100LB wrench, it would be most accurate from 20-80 LBs. Having said that, the high end wrenches are supposed to be accurate throughout their range.
Although not as handy, I believe the beam type are the most accurate of the "less expensive" wrenches. Even the high end clickers can go out of calibration, especially if mis used.
There are a number of Chinese clicker type wrenches sold under different brand names with dubiuos at best accuraccy. If you have a cheap clicker and a beam type you can set the clicker to click at the torque you want by coupling it to a beam type with a female coupler, or two sockets welded together.

I have five torque wrenches, including three Snap-on and still find that there are times a different style would work better for what I'm doing.

You might just buy a Craftsman beam type to get going and if you want a better one, watch Craigs list and EBAY etc. for a deal.

You guys are going to love this, Harbor Freight! Needed it to reinstall the aluminum nut on my valve stack on my old KLX. It's a 20-200 in/lb clicker style that doesn't click, just yields when the required torque is met. Made in Taiwan, just like some Husky engines

I have an electronic snapon 1/4 and 1/2 drive. They are nice, often to nice. You can fudge the torque with a clicker, mine will hold the last torque long enough for the the inspector to check it. Sucks when trying to line up a castle nut to get a cotter pin in and you go over max torque by a couple in lbs haha

http://www.warehousedeals.com/GearW...src=froogle&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=froogle

Thanks guy's, I'm still looking & trying to decide. Electronic, dial, clicker, bar. geez, lot's of choices,thanks for your comments. Anymore? Kinda leaning toward the gearwrench but not sure about getting a used one.

If you use a click type to break loose a bolt it will screw it up and get it out of calibration so if you buy a used one hopefully the previous owner didn't do that.

Could you not use the one you have with a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer?

His 3/8 may not go low enough

Exactly. It will go pretty low but you can barely feel the click at about 10 nm plus it can be too big in some places.

That's what I am worried about when buying a used one. I use my 3/8ths for torque only but when I get up to the axle bolt torques I wonder if I am hurting it. I do have a bar type for the 1/2" drive but sometimes get lazy & just use the 3/8" that I have already out.