1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

125-200cc 125 head squish?

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by R_Little, Aug 18, 2010.

  1. R_Little Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NJ
    What is the recomended measurement?

    I'm rebulding Norm's old 125 bottom end and am going to try the solder trick. I have an assortment of base gaskets E Gorr sent me.

    Thanks!
  2. NWRider Husqvarna
    AA Class

    About 1mm I believe. My 06 was 1.2 stock. The stock base gasket is .5mm and the optional race one is .3mm so it would have made it perfect. If yours is as close as mine it should be easy to get it right. If not RB Designs does good work for a good price.
  3. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    1mm = 0.39". That's a nice, tight squish for a trail bike!
    Still leaves a little wiggle room for crank bearings to wear too.

    Messing with the base gasket will change port timing slightly. Not sure if .2mm's is enough of a change to notice or not, but the technique to correct squish w/out changing port timing is to deck the head and then rechamber the dome back to stock cc's.

    Playing with base gaskets is cool too though. And cheap!
  4. rockdancer Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Sunshine Coast, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 WR125, 2019 FE350
    Has anyone else measured their squish? - where do you get the optional race gasket from - Husky dealer?
  5. raisrx251 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Virginia
    Yes, you can order the .3's from your dealer, it is just a option in the parts fiche. Every 125 I have had has a .5 but make sure when you take it off by using a micrometer. If you look in your owners manual it should have a page showing a range that is safe, like 1.0-1.5mm. When you change your port timing down it gains more bottom, if you raise port timing it gains top end. That is with a case reed motor like the 125/250.

    Be very careful with your solder, it is easy to snip off a piece and not know it. It happened to me once but luckily I was able to get it out of there. Next time I think I will take a black sharpie and color the ends of the solder to make when I take the solder out they are not broken off. Check out the article on gasgasrider.org on measuring squish in the technical how to. Sorry to mention gas gas but it is a good article.

    P.S. sorry to hear about Norm's old bottom end...
  6. R_Little Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NJ
    How much would you expect the bearings to wear typically?

    My old WR250 motor always had a little "up and down" on the crank bearings even when it had relatively new bearings..it ran fine with no noise but the everpresent little bit of play always concerned me.

    BTW, the CR125 manual says squish is .047"
  7. Joe Chod Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    upstate NY
    I am leaving this one alone!:lol::censored::doh:
  8. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    They should last forever, but contaminates can get in via the air filter or dirty fuel and grind away the balls. If the mains, lower and upper conrod bearings all start to wear and show play then .040" is not much wiggle room. At least that's what my head tells me!
  9. R_Little Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NJ
    Makes sense but do you think .001 up and down on the crank should be cause for alarm?

    The rod is always tight but the crank always has a little wiggle.
  10. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    I'd be concerned. There should be zero up and down movement in the crank and rod.

    Maybe the crank journal or inner bearing race is getting worn and not making a press-tight fit :excuseme: Crank bearings usually give you some warning before they really go south. Usually a growling, whirring type sound that is more pronounced at lower RPM's and goes away as the revs climb.

    I'm no mechanic, so take all this with a grain of salt. This is just stuff I've learned over the years playing with cars, boats and bikes. I've blown one of everything up! And have learned lots from it :cheers: