250-500cc 13' WR300 Has a Low Idle

I want to up my idle a bit to help my Rekluse work a little better and noticed I cant turn in the idle adjustment screw anymore? It seems like it's really idling low for having the screw cranked all the way. I have tried to adjust it with throttle open/closed Running/off ..the screw is all the way in.

I know I can swap springs in Rekluse back to a lower engagement but that still doesn't fix how low the bike idles. When I have the medium springs in and the rekluse is set correctly and engaging a bit when your sitting, it idles so low it almost dies, it idles this low in gear or in neutral and did it before the Rekluse.

Anyone have a suggestion (other than Lectron or smartcarb, I will be trying one but just not this week). Thanks for any comments

Yeah i second that. Make sure its the screw with the lock nut. My '12 WR had a low idle too and it only took a little turn of that screw to bump it up.

Could be running rich on the pilot. Last time I rode my mine in really humid weather I had to crank my idle screw all the way in too...

Yup screw with lock nut is the idle adjustment screw which is what I have been adjusting. It does seem to run a little rich so I will try going down on the pilot then. What should I be looking for if I adjust the fuel air screw? The manual says adjust either way until motor runs well???? Are you listening for a smooth constant idle and crisp throttle while adjusting the fuel air screw? Thanks again

I think im like one in a million with my WR's carb. The bike runs superb on the stock carb which is a rarity apparently. The needle may need position change or you might need a jet kit. You might be happier with a Lectron carb when its all said and done. Just look around for carb settings for the WR on this forum. Im sure people have tried all kinds of stuff.

If you're still on the stock jetting setup, my opinion is that the stock pilot jet is way too rich. The stock jet in WR300s is a 45, the JD jetting kit (just as an example) uses a 32.5 (!).

Jet should be a N224.103 type. Try a 35 and see how that works for you...

In the short term, you could also try opening your air screw up a bunch (like 3 turns, maybe?).

It is odd that it idles that low with the screw all the way in. Is the Rekluse dragging too much?

I thought the rekluse might be dragging but it idles low in neutral or in gear and i put the high engagement springs in so it wont even pull against me in gear anymore. I checked the jetting, it has a 440 main and a 50 pilot so according to the jetting database I think I could go down to a 430 and a 40 and still be safe ( I'm running a gnarly pipe )???

50 pilot is HUGE. Like I said, the JD kit for the 300 comes with a 32.5 (but I don't want to guarantee that this will work for you, and there may be some interplay with the needle). I would try a 35-40 and see how that works for you. 40 would be an improvement but I think it will still be rich.

Talked to the guys at halls, they ended up recommending a 430/45 clip in middle 4 on slide. I bought a 45 and a 40 pilot to try for now. I hope I can get a cast smart carb or lectron soon. Thanks for the help I can report back this weekend and will add to the database if all is good.

Turns out I have a 5 slide with the gay needle 2nd from bottom air screw at 1.5 and the 440 main 50 pilot. The plug is just pig rich and black everywhere! Moved needle to middle dropping main and pilot by one for starts and see what happens???? What does changing the slide do because isn't a 4 stock?

The higher the number the larger the cutaway. 4 is stock so a 5 will weaken it slightly, probably used to compensate for your huge pilot jet. I have experimented with different slide cutaways and they only have a small effect. If you are going to the expense of new slides etc it is probably better to spend the extra and buy either a Kehein or Lectron and jet it properly.