250-500cc '14 WR300

I wasn't looking to change to a Wr300 but the deal was offered to me so I went for it .

So I sadly say farewell to my 125/144/165 days and welcome a new ride - a 2014 WR300.
Yes I have been here before with a 2010 model but felt this time I would harder try to make it work for me and I have a better bike to work with.
Very happy with the bike so far . Ive only ridden it up the road but it was like - whooha
and ....
Its got some serious go right off the bat. I was impressed.
Sounds really niece and quiet and idles nicely .

I need to get more info from original owner about its history.
Its got a full Pro-circuit system, looks like its got the chinese radiators. Revalved suspension ( hopefully not too hard ) Thermostat removed - coolant piping changed.

Ive put some pivot pegs on and will fit my old G2 barkbusters, brake & radiator guards and change those grips .
Will need a pipe guard .

I will seek advice after I ride the beast.

What do you reckon ?

Nice headlight same as mine! Globes didn't last in em very long for me as filament always broke n were exy to replace(cheap on ebay). I'm gonna give ya advice anyway

Shock is prone to fade piston band too small gets too hot n oil bypasses(or sumthn like that) turnin into a pogo stick. Dave at susp matters fixed mine.

Watch shock mudflap chewin swingarm. Zip ties or old inner tube to stop the rub

Magura hydro clutch is nice otherwise a well lubed cable with Ballards ezy pull lever works ok

Yzf fender makes em look heap more modern(Ballards $34 delivered on ebay!)

Watch airboot runnin on subframe bolts n shock. Strategic use of old inner tube the go

Watch reed block same as 125 for air leaks

Get a lectron or pwk at least

Watch PC pipe on rear brake line(I melted 2!) n shock resevoir. Not the best fit I found. I have a nice stock pipe with works look n stock silencer for ya!!!

Ditch the rear rattler disc n get a metal gear/moto master solid mount disc. It becomes annoying!

Get bigger shifter tip. U pretty big aren't ya, big feet you'll need it!

Dunno bout the blue rad hoses but good to delete the Thermo, we don't need it n sumthn else to go wrong

Switchblock kill switch notorious for stuffing up so wen it won't run look there first! If oem speedo dies I gotta spare for ya!

Reroute the carb n crank breather hoses to airbox. Seal up the bottom of airbox n drill a small hole for water drain in lowest point of LHS of airbox. Trust me if you hittin water hard or deep do this!

See if 7602 has any clutch covers left for oil sight glass. Well worth it. Looks like case saver on there?

Keep an eye on engine mounts n swingarm bolt. Tight as f#%k that one should be! Head stays can crack if they get loose(trust me)

Grease shroud bolts into tank if u ever wanna get em off again(no real need unless you changing plastic but they seize n spin!)

Personal preference but i found stock bràke lever caused pigeon toe. I bent mine straight n made tip smaller/further from peg

Watch sprocket bolts bein RHS drive(I've seen one fold a sprocket when bolts got loose!)

13:50 gearing I found best for bottom end/lack of clutch abuse in tight stuff without givin away too much top speed. Dab of silicone on front sprocket circlip good insurance too

Watch water ingress into swingarm thru the linkage access holes. Drill 5mm hole in bottom end of swingarm. Grease the adjuster bolts!!!

My rear wheel was bad for spokes coming loose. Front is fine. Bulk torque/power maybe?

Watch wiring under tank for ignition. Whilst it was on my 125(Ducati ignition) that it wore thru a wire under tank n wouldn't start probly pay to check n clean up wiring.


All I can think of for now mate haha. I'm sure you're all over it anyway but jus a heads up. Giv us a yell if u wanna know anythin else as I've made all the mistakes for ya!!!

Ps chop out the spark arrestor n it'll make it similar size as the 304 silencer/powercore 2.

My platinum pipe cracked at header but took fair bit of abuse for 150 hours or so

Thanks for all the info Craig - geez you've given me some work to do ....

Ive got an original pipe and the dodgy blocked up road legal version - might need that one to slow it down for me haha

It looks like the airboot has been all sealed up with red silicone - there is evidence of a rebuild kit in the spares so it may have had a new top end
Other things I have noticed - the stand is very short and stumpy and needs extending - the seat is also made from a soft foam

My main focus will be making it bulletproof so thanks for all the tips - I also want to make it easy to ride
I will see how it goes with mikuni - I like em
As long as it starts ok - which it seems to

The Ez pull clutch is something I will be doing - was thinking Mid west mountain Engineering but if there is a local product its worth trying that

The pull is not too bad already but its nice to have it light . I will look at the arm length as well .

The idea of a more definite clutch engagement is something that interests me most
I do have a new Brembo master cylinder and lever from a TE but not sure if that will work with the Migura Hydraulic cable set up ?


Looking forward to hopefully keeping this one for a while

Ha I bet you'll sell it within 3 months! U change bikes more than I change me undies.

Most the stuff I posted is shit that I had issues with, most pretty simple bullet proofing. Airbox seal up I meNt the drain at the bottom-let's in too much water.

The ADR pipe has 3 restrictors-washer at stinger junction, another in header n a stoopid cat converter looking thin in header too. I binned mine after gettin shits on with it n mangling it. Was good therapy!

I forget which needle my mikuni had in it but pilot was too rich at 45. Main was 420/430(prob too rich as well)

Ballards ezy pull lever bout $40 plus delivery. It's for a wrf/yzf so if ya don't like it stick it on ya yzf! Ya gotta be bit creative to get the cable length correct or order shorter cable. All they are is the termination point of cable into the lever is closer to bars so ya get more leverage. Could drill another hole in stock lever prob do the same I guess. Does make fair difference.

O k so had the first ride yesterday .

First impressions were great - the handling and steering was much better than my old one - so big plus there .
It was good on hills but there was one hill which most were just going to watch on and I didn't make it half way up . I did make it up two weeks ago on 165
Mainly how I rode though - just need to get bike set up right

Enjoying the ride and motor but then had a few issues with bike not idling

Tried to screw in adjuster and didn't effect it . Tried adjusting throttle cable at throttle and slight improvement but still stalling .

Adjusted air acrew in both directions but not muchg difference there

I am thinking it was a lean situation but when I dial the air screw in it seems to run rich down low .

Pulled out of the ride in the end . Pulled the plug at home and it looked quite good - mid brown

I have also noticed that when I start the bike - the choke doesn't seem to do anything

I pulled the carb off and checked inlet boot - not great but I don't think that's the issue - sealed it up with RTV put one of my other Mikuni carbs on with similar jetting and tried it again with similar result

I sprayed boot with carb cleaner while it was running and no change. I have managed to get a good idle speed with throttle adjustment all the way out . The idle is a very nice steady idle - doesn't sound lean

So not sure whats happening
?:
Only other thing I can think off is to try my spare throttle cable - maybe its stretched - but that doesn't explain choke issue.

Also put the original pipe back on - power feels silky smooth now . ( already put a small dent in nice pro - circuit pipe)
I also changed the needle from GAY 69-74 to a GAY 79-74 .
Don't seem to be able find out what the difference is on here yet - same diameter and taper -
It feels so smooth .
Left needle on 4th slot and using a 430 main with 40 pilot .


Overall though enjoying having the new ride but need to sort out this issue

Also - on the ripping air intake boot issue - reading that replacement boots can not last too well either
Can older model boots be used - back to what year ? Mine has an external crack but its only appears to be near the surface
The shape seems fairly flat inside

Intake manifold looks a bit how ya goin. Rtv n order a newy. Think it was back to 07 were the same then they were shorter(better for lectron fitment).

Rip that chain guard n front sprocket cover off!

Bike looks good mate. Not sure on the blue hoses still. Cheap chinga red set look better I reckon

What make of footpegs are those? Thanks.

They are pivot pegz - they work really well

http://www.pivotpegz.net/husqvarna/husqvarna-2008-2013-all-models-except-tr650

I had a new boot fail after only a few weeks. Now I just wrap the whole thing with rubber tape. When it starts to separate at the manifold joint like that it's done.

Once you tune that thing to "stall proof mode", I want to ride it.

I do that little clutch lever mod on everything. Works amazing

Yep makes a fair difference.

Doesn't seem to work as well on hydro clutches I've found!

So what exactly is this clutch lever mod??

Jus drill a hole in lever closer to the bars behind the existing cable termination hole. Gives more leverage.

By hole I mean a recess to sit the cable ball end thingy in not a hole right through

Ohhh haha I thought it was an internal motor mod... I have already bought a Moose racing EZ3 lever and a Motion Pro terminator cable. Thanks for the info!

Like this

Wow, nice bike! Even the graphics are sweet.