125-200cc 144 kit PV's

OK,
Got my 144 kit and have some questions for you experts out there. I have read about wrong valves, 2 of the same side valves, hand filing/fitting valves......so while I'm waiting for my .4 base gasket I figured I'd ask. I know for sure that I have a left and a right valve. I am also pretty confident that I have 144 valves and not 125 valves (from what I read they are different). My questions are:

1. Am I correct about the valves?
2. To me it looks like the right valve is closer to the piston than left? (3rd pic cyl is upside down) Does it matter that much?
3. Is there a certain clearance you want between the PV face and the piston? What is it?
4. If I need to bring the valve closer, do I file the valve where it hits the stop in the cyl?
5. Is there any special "mod" (that anyone would care to share) I can/should do to the PV before I assemble?

I do have mechanical knowledge and the tools to work with so technical terms are not a problem for me.
Thanks,

I just put a new ring in mine last night and measured the PV clearance. 2.5mm on the left and about 2mm on the right. I don't know if that is normal but it seems a bit much.

Do you have the linkages installed or did you just drop the valves in the slot without reassembling the shaft and spacers?

I just slid the valves in the cyl. on the bench. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the right "closer" PV hits the stop on the outside of the PV in the cyl BUT the left valve actually hits the inside (center of cyl) and it does not contact the outside stop at all. After looking closely at the center rib you can clearly see a machining difference on them. I will try to get a pic.

Don't panic yet, mine did the same thing. When you install the shaft and spacers and bolt everything back together, I think you'll see a much better alignment... I did.

Well I can't get a pic but I think you guy's know what I mean. Actually, now that I know what I'm looking for, I can clearly see it in the pics I posted. If you look at the first pic, you can see where the left valve is stopping short of the outer stop.
I didn't think that I would have to have everything assembled. I mean, with the coil spring on the PV shaft that takes up the "over" movement of the PV linkage, I thought that the PV's would "have" to be on the stop when fully closed. If not, why have the spring? (well, I know "why" it's there but I think you know what I mean)

Just got finished installing the kit on Monday. I did the exact same thing as you did, with the same result, and reached the same incorrect (in my case) conclusion. When you install the linkage hardware (shaft, spacers, plates) and bolt them all up, you'll see what I mean. The milling "stops" in the ports are not designed to be seats (or stops) for the valves. When you get the shaft and spacers and plates installed, it will pull the valves up in the ports so they don't even touch the milled-out ridges. When it is all assembled, the actual travel "stop" for the valves is the spacers hitting the plates. Try it.

Cool, when I go to put it together I'll look at it then. See, that's what great about this place, if you run into a problem or question someone has already been there.
Thanks

I'm pretty sure your result will be the same as mine. When I looked at your pics, my first thought was... "Oh man, that looks exactly like what I saw when I was "dry fitting" my valves". I was ready to send my kit back to the dealer! Then I thought: "What the hell, let me at least assemble the guts and see what it looks like". In my case, it all turned out good. Engine started in 3 kicks and after 3 heat cycles, it's pulling like my '11 CR 150!

Hopefully, you'll have the same outcome (pretty sure you will)... Good luck!

Thanks Krieg