TE/TC '17 TX300 Time to dump the Lectron?

I've spent all summer, fall and now into the early stages of winter tweaking my Lectron. Methodically. Make one adjustment and go for two full rides (usually a week apart). Then repeat.

With the green spring and Lectron, the TX300, hands down, has the smoothest power delivery of any bike I've ever owned. Better than any 4 stroke bike. It's very rideable in the tight woods.

Problem is, that the maniacal two stroke instant frantic rip your arms off 2 stroke power isn't there. The bike slides up the RPMs very smooth and predictably, but the bottom end torque -- where is it? Just not there. On my WR300 I could Zap over a log in 2nd gear from a stand still. The TX300 from a stand still just goes "I think I can, I think I can, ..." which, most of the time, means I ride right into an obstacle without any front tire lift.

So far I've opened the air box (the common mod found on the internet).
Keep the air filter clean.
Installed a TurbineCore 2 (or 2.1) silencer on it with stock pipe.
Gotten the Lectron to the point that it is just slightly rich (by one quarter turn).

And that's another thing about the "High Velocity" mod on the lectron. It's either just slightly lean, or just slightly rich. I can't get a good tan/brown color on the plug. It's either chalky grey or wet and black. One quarter turn in and it's black. Go back one quarter turn and its grey.

I'm not good at jetting carbs. I never know if I should be adjust the jets, or the needle, or the needle jet, or the slide, or the float or whatever. So I would go back to the Mikuni, but I'm afraid to have to constantly mess with jets. And it's not something I can do at home where the elevation is 1200 feet. All my rides start at 3500 feet and go up from there. And we have pretty variable temps. This time of the year, we're 30 one day, 60 the next. I can get the jetting close, but there are way too many variables in the Mikuni to confuse myself with.

The lectron is good at compensating for altitude and temps. But the Mikunis I've used never were.

Open to suggestions.

EDIT: After working with Lectron I received and put in a 5-1 rod and it cleared up the low end very nicely and left the mid and top about the same as it was. The bike pulls very smoothly from idle to rev-out. No mid-range hit whatsoever. The two stroke power has been restored for the most part. It's pretty amazing at this point.

I ride at that elevation with my '17 XC 300 and I use the jd jetting kit. It gives you parameters for elevation and the type of riding/racing that you do. My bike feels crisp with plenty of pep.

You so need to just put on a 2016 style carb A Keihin Carb total problem solved

JD Jet has new ones that come with a JD Jet kit for a list price of 324.00 Heck just there jet kit is about 85 bucks. so the carb and the kit for 324 is a steal BUT if you order the same thing from ZIP TY RACING
you get the same carb with the JD jet kit BUT Ty will throw in a Magnetic drain bold and a hand turn adjustable air screw for the same price.

Here are a few stories why you need to change I have a 2016 Husky TE 300 that comes with a Keihin carb over 2 years ago and 2,600 miles
I jetted that bike per the manual and it runs great EVERY where from all the different Nationals I do all over the westeren states from below sea level to over 8,000 feet. From slow King of the Moto stuff to wide open desert never a change. My friend has a 2017 TE 300 and has tried all different set ups and even the JD jet kit and still it will not run like mine. So after a year of trying he is going to order a Keihin Carb from Zip Ty Racing with the JD jet kit
A few months ago Ty help me build a 2017 TC 125 we spent a few days trying to make the stock carb work and just could not get it to work.
So Ty ordered me a Keihin carb from JD Jet I was there when it arrived I watch Ty take the floot bowl drain bolt off incert the JD Jet and then the Needle. Then Ty put his custom Magnetic bolt on and his trick air screw. That's it. We kicked it 1 time, it started and ran perfect. We did not adjust anything I then took it to Rd 9 of the Nationals where after 75 miles of desert racing National against the open class on a 125 I finished 30 seconds behind 2nd place. Since then I have rode it a few more times and it runs perfect. I live below sea level and the National was a 3,600 feet No change. As for the Lectron I once tried one on a Walt Smith Italian Husky 165 and for me it did not work like I wanted. I went back to a Keihin on that bike. so just call Zip Ty and solve your problem 760 244 7028

and me Im fine with my OEM Mikuni JD jetted, lowered float height, V force 4, thunder products quad flow torque wing induction system at 60:1 with K2 maxima and Shell pump premium. FMF gnarley with powercore 2.1 Ti muffler thing works great from zero to hero rpm, untouched PV OEM stock. dry but black exhaust tip and brown to blk plug read (safe)

Hmm... I like the keihin idea. But I'm broke so I'd have to sell the lectron first. I assume that's a 36mm keihin you are using?

Now that is a deal

Try a different metering rod. I'd call or email Lectron and ask for help. They have great customer service and will work with you to get your setup right.

Lectron will work great once you get it tuned. I heard they were shipping 2-3xl rods for newer 300s which doesn't make sense to me. I run 3-1xl in my red 300 and it's smooth and strong from 0 to sign off. Once you find the best metering rod for your setup it'll be brilliant

yea call Kevin at Lectron and get a different needle

I've been corresponding with Brooks at lectron. So the conversation is started.
Also note I've used a lectron before. I had one on my WR250, then converted it to a WR300. It was awesome on that bike.
Took the lectron off when I sold the WR300, sent it to lectron for the "High Velocity" mod and put it on the TX300. I've been tweaking it for a while, and I can't pin point what it is that's wrong.
I'm actually using a 4-2M rod as that's what they said they are using on the 17+ 300s that they spec the HV modded carbs for.
They also did a complete rebuild when they HV modded it. So everything should be pretty fresh.

I have the same bike with Lectron (4-2m rod), vforce reeds, stock pipe and turbine core 2 silencer using yellow (stock) spring. One other mod I did to give me the power I need down low is change the gearing from stock 13/50 to 13/52 which gives me that boost of power for step ups/logs, etc... It's actually the same gearing ratio as Jarvis typically uses (he uses 12/48 as do many of the extreme enduro guys). I have had to change the gearing on every XC type bike I have owned to get the power down low necessary for tight technical single track. Another mod to look into is RK Tech Head. I have heard nothing but great reports on this mod to improve low end grunt. You might also try the yellow spring vs green.

Okay so I got some avgas and realized I was running a fair amount too rich. Leaned it 1/2 turn and she's running much better. Still soft on the bottom but nowhere near as bad.

I'm also at 13/52. Made some difference. Like other bikes I've geared down, first gear is almost non-usable in that you have to switch to 2nd after about half a second. But it makes 2nd and 3rd more normal. I guess that's just SOP with close ratio transmissions.

I have watch top pros at King of the Moto GEAR UP the Husky TE 300 and KTM 300 as stock first is crazy low they say it makes it more usable I run stock 13/50
on my 2016 Husky TE 300 also my Zip Ty Racing TC 125 is also geared 13/50 big plus wheels interchange
But then both bikes are running a Keihen Carb with race gas at 50 to 1

Old MX gearing method was to gear up as much as possible while still being able to do 2nd gear starts. Still works for me.

we all have our own way and taste. mine is still 100% OEM.....ok with a few adds, (JD Jetset, Vforce 4,FMFGnar/2.1 Ti powercore, OE carb, OE final drive, Rek 3.0), these bikes are so good now. oh and on this one OE suspension with a heavier rear spring. I now have 2 bikes with the Mikuni 38, both work fine after taking some time for set up.

If I knew which way to go. I probably would but Brooks thinks I may have eaten a reed. So I'm going to pull the carb this week (which means pulling the tank and sub-frame), to inspect.

And I would be more willing to jump on new the new rod bandwagon if they weren't $35 each. Or if I could try it and return it. That'd be cool. If they were $10 each, even, I'd buy a couple/few to try. But $35 guesses without really knowing if they will help is not really in my budget.