1977 automatic starting issues

i just got a deal on a mostly all there 77 390 auto. i know nothing about automatics, until getting this bike i had no idea husky made these. this is also my first husky, and first big bore 2 stroke. well the bike has good compression and spark and clean carb, so im going to try and see if i get it to run before i attempt anything else with it. so im playing with it and tinkering and kicking, and kicking....and kicking! wow these big 2 strokes are rough. so the question, since i cant just bump start the auto, do any of you guys have tricks that you use when you are trouble shooting these bikes to not kill yourself kicking them all day? all i know is get the piston TDC and kick with everything i got. thanks for any help or ideas.

I will assume it has a Micuni round slide carb. There is a starting lever on the carb, usually on these you push down on a lever and the lever pivots and picks up a little plunger. Put it in that position. Stand on something and kick with the right leg. There is a technique usually there is some rearward component to the kick. Do not touch the throttle. Taking the plug out and warming it with a propane torch or in a gas kitchen stove might be a trick. After a lot of kicking you might get lucky on full throttle make a whole lot of smoke and then get warmed up. If the lower end gets flooded it will need aired out. Keep an eye on the breather line from the transmission if it is "breathing" there then the crank seal is bad. You never know what the previous riders/owners/mechanics have done. There are reeds in the intake but in my experience it will show some sign of life if the reeds are in wrong or in poor condition. There could be a mouse or squirrel house in the exhaust. Best I can do long distance.

Fran

Make sure you kick it all the way through and keep your toes pointed down with good boots on,if your short legged stand on something solid like a curb or some thing that won't move and be sure its not in gear.

While your learning to kick this one, remove the LH foot peg just to get it out of the way so can get full stroke.
Make sure the trans is disengeged( little short lever on handlebar pull it down until it locks the lever back) I always hold them back a little more just incase. If you get it started DO NOT ENGAGE TRANS AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN A VERY LOW IDLE. lIKE ALMOST READY TO DIE. Best to push it off and when idle is down drop it into gear once ingaged just a little throttle or it can get away frome you quick.
If you engage trans at to high idle it won't go into gear and will round the dogs on the main shaft and the dogs in the gear. They are NLA and expensive to fix.
Later George

a good habbit to get into,
when not using the motorycle, engage the lever, it will take tention off the cable,
and will help it last longer,
ill never forget one spring, after having it sit for a couple months, fired up,
warmed up, let her idle down, then just as i touched the lever,,,snap...the cable broke.
i still got to ride that day, but it was no fun restarting the bike later that day.
FYI: regular ATF is not the trans fluid used in Husky auto,s

Maybe that cable proved more trouble than it was worth since none of the auto bikes I have rode around have it.

It doesn't really matter it seems he sold the bike in the classified section. Same type of thing happens by word of mouth too you spend a few hours helping out someone then they sell it/ask you to buy it.

Early Auto's have to have them thats how to engege trans.
Later George

It doesn't really matter it seems he sold the bike in the classified section. Same type of thing happens by word of mouth too you spend a few hours helping out someone then they sell it/ask you to buy it.

Probably better he did, from my admittedly limited experience off them you have to be really committed to them.