1983 HUSQVARNA 240 WR Europe France

Futur restore bike project 2013








ORIGINAL BIKES 1983 WR 240/250

SERIAL NUMBER !

this bike is bad !

after 20 years in

a stock garage !

And now Go !!

Fun! Why the rubber between the cylinder air-cooling fins? Noise reduction or vibration reduction?

Can't wait to see what you do with this!!

My first decent ride on a husky was on one of those... funny power, strangled like a 125 with a huuuge muffler on it. i rode it a local enduro and got the hang of it. then i was entered at the Otways enduro in 1984 and after 3 sections, the magnets flew out of the flywheel and attached them selves to the stator with interesting results!

Keen to see you weave your magic on this ol mate....

hi !
rubber in cylinder is vibration and
noise reduction !
rubber exhaust and pipe noise reduction !
( race to france ! or road ! in france this
bike , is street-légal !)
excuse my english bad !

my buddy had the 250. i ate a lot of roost from it. bike 'll go anywhere. bless you for saving these heritage pieces.

Looks like its been near the sea? pipe is in good shape and the forks look like the chrome is good.. Enjoy

In New England enduroes in the 70's & 80's we would cut slices of rubber hose to stuff in the fins to aid getting our noisy Euro bikes thru the 88db max at 50' in 2nd gear full throttle sound test at every Netra enduro. The fins on my father's 72 Puch 175 were bigger than the 430 fin set and possibly the 500 fin set as well. The noise sources that could fail a sound test came not only from exhaust, but fins and airbox contributed as well. Just damping the fins and insulating the airbox on say a 77 Bultaco Frontera would result in a sound test reading of 3 db less. The difference between riding or not riding the event

i have the identical 240 , i thought '84 but the frame and motor numbers are so close. anyway its a quick machine, watchout for if it leans out ripping up a long hill,or maybe it was preignition at mid to high rpm. in either case as i rode up the hill ( 3 km long climb) the exhaust note changed to a higher pitch and it all proceeded to seize the cylinder. so i stopped turned around and started to coast down this hill. the motor had cooled some and was able to unstuck by rocking in gear, so i gave a kick and it all went crunch inside. piston and bore done. no oversize for the 240 so bored to 250 and reassembled with 250 piston and rings.upon first start i realized the crank must hav gotten out of true, so apart again to true it up and in the reassembly i must have rotated the magneto without the spark plug grounded , and fried the cdi allspark. ive suffered through the trial of several different cdi units, and my leg told me the timing was not right, confirmed with a timing light. the final result is to make one as per a circut diagram to reproduce the original. cost less than 15$ of electronic parts. now theres great spark at the right timing and it all runs great again. now after all this ive noticed the epoxy that holds the magnets on the flywheel has perhaps unbonded from the flywheel, i suspect as a result of vibration from timing issues, or tapping the flywheel puller. whatever the reasons, theres been a chain of problems that all started by a lean mix fuel to air, and run hot, or maybe timing. i think more it was gas mix, cause it was the sides of the piston scored as opposed to the top of piston being melted from preignition. im not sure. but if the sound changes, dont just keep going, thats all thats needed to begin such a terrible chain of events.

You poor bastard.... those air cooled motors had a factory issue where some of the head bolts would bottom in the cyl before pulling down tight and would cause a seize over the exhaust port!