125-200cc 1995 WXC/WXE 125 Rebuild

I'm rebuilding a 95 WXC 125 and I'm going to need some help sourcing parts, so I thought I'd start a thread on it here. Anyone with experience with these bikes, please help if you can. It appears some parts for this bike are getting hard to come by especially since they had a 56 bore x 50.6 stroke. OEM rod and piston kits are no longer available, but I think I have located some that will fit. Vertex has a piston kit for a 95 CR/WR 125 with the same part no. Questions I have now:

1. From my research it appears that a Pro X rod kit for a Cagiva Mito 125 Sport will work. I don't have the crank out yet, but the dimensions I can measure look correct. These Husky's were made by Cagiva and the rod even says Cagiva on it. Can anyone confirm this?

2. Where can I find a service manual for this bike? Preferrably in pdf format.

3. How good were these bikes? Anyone know? There sure aren't many around. With a 35mm old TMX carb and the oversquare bore/stroke I am curious to know about how they run/ran.

4. Would an intake boot from a later model fit? I have my 38mm TMXX from my WR250 that I could put on this.

had 2 of them
short stroke made em rev quick but still a nice low end too. carb was a 35 mm TM

I have both conrod data for cagiva mito and husqvarna 125 1995 models. Will try to post some picture and dimension as well.

Thanks, that will be very helpful.

Here are the details:

CAGIVA STELLA 125
HUSQVARNA 125 1995
BE: ∅30
SE: ∅20
Center Distance: 110
BE Pin: ∅24x∅10x55
SE Pin: ∅16x45x∅11
BE Bearing: ∅30x∅24x16
SE Bearing: ∅20x∅16x22
Thickness: 16

CAGIVA MITO 125
BE: ∅28
SE: ∅20
Center Distance: 110
BE Pin: ∅22x∅8.9x51.5
SE Pin: ∅16x∅10.8x45
BE Bearing: ∅28x∅22x16
SE Bearing: ∅20x∅16x22
Thickness: 16

HONDA NSR150
BE: ∅31
SE: ∅20
Center Distance: 110
BE Pin: ∅24x∅12x51
SE Pin: ∅16x45x∅11
BE Bearing: ∅31x∅24x17
SE Bearing: ∅20x∅16x17
Thickness: 17

The Husqvarna rod has 67005 marked and Mito 56208 (as in the photo attached)

The husqvarna 125 1995 conrod is really rare item, i saw them in ebay germany in october this year but can't find it now anymore. The crankshaft used in 1995 models is similar in construction with Cagiva Stella 125/115 moped bike mainly for asia market somewhere in 2000-2005.

I did convert and use the Honda NSR15o rod but with minor mod at the crackshaft as this rod is wider by 1mm compared to OEM.
You may find OEM piston in ebay: http://cgi.ebay.fr/PISTON-NEUF-O-HU...9730?pt=FR_JG_Moto_Pièces&hash=item2a22b628a2

Mito single ring can be considered as the only difference i see is on the split ring location and slightly larger (a few microns)

mbb, Thanks for that info. It looks like that rod is going to be a problem. My rod has 67005 on one side and R3 Cagiva on the other. That seems to be the only part that I can't find for this bike. It looks like maybe I should stop here and part it out. I figured I could have this thing in solid mechanical condition and running like new for a total of about $1200, but if I have to get into special mods for the rod/crank, it's probably not worth it.

Hi Utopia,

I rebuilt a 1996 WR 125 a couple of years ago & yes the conrod is probably the hardest item to come by. None of them here in Australia or the USA. The rods must have been a reliability issue for the 95 & 96 models as Husky changed the design in 1997 & is still the same bore & stroke for the 2013 models. Rods for the 1995/96 are extremely hard to find these days, with the 16mm wrist pin making it even harder trying to match up pistons. (97 & on use 15mm pins) OEM is the only way I know of as Prox manufacture rods for the WR/CR 125 from 97 on. I have no idea if the Cagiva rod you talk of will fit, the 1995/6 WR 125 rod I have is 104 mm centre to centre LE 20mm x BE 30mm & 16mm wide & has cagiva cast into it also. One from a WRE of the same year may also work.
You might try http://webshop.benvanerp.nl/ as these are the only guys I know of that may still stock them.

I have a service manual in paper copy only & can scan & send you some info, just let me know what you need. I've never seen a service manual in PDF for the 1995/6 models. Most WR125 manuals are very similar.

Wossner still make pistons for these bikes also & they are a forged item not cast like the Vertex

The PWK is a great mod carby wise & the later model intake manifold also interchange with this model, the fixing holes are the same. As are the CR honda's. Try an intake manifold from a 2002 & on WR/CR 125 they will accept the 38mm carby.
I am running a manifold from a 2008 with the v force reed block, a 36 mm PWK (1999 KX 125) & an airboot from a 1998 model WR250 to straighten up the intake tract & it works extremely well.

I love mine but it is getting a bit old now & parts are getting a lot harder to get especially the rods.
Might be time for a new bike!! WB165, APT, Recluse, HMMM!!
Good luck Man!!

Thanks for the info AUSKY! If I find a rod I might hit you up for a few pages of the manual. I saw your thread on your $100 Husky. It turned out pretty nice. Mine cost a little more ($150) and it's in much better shape than yours was to begin with.

Did you happend to find a service manual Im currently rebuilding a 96 wxc 125 and looking for a manual myself. Thanks

No, I couldn't find a manual.

Did you give up on the project or were you able to source some parts?

It took quite awhile to find a rod kit but I did. Then it took 47 days to get it here from Europe, but I have it now. I just haven't had time to work on it lately. I'll be getting back on the project in the next couple of weeks.

Where did you end up getting the rod from utopia?

Ben VanErp found one for me. It was a revised part number and no longer available. They said it was the last one.

Gulp. They were the last retailer I knew of that stocked them. That's possibly the last one on the planet!!
How much did they sting you for it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-W...44?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c31853f38

Wow, Unobtanium is pricey.

That is not the correct part for this bike. It says 105mm c to c. The one that came out of my bike and the new one I got is 110mm c to c.

I finally got back on this rebuild project and made some progress. Had to get a steering stop welded on the frame, cut off the welded-on stabilizer post that the PO was using for a steering stop (idiots), replaced the tweaked triple clamps with some I found on ebay (the PO musta balled this thing up hard!). I painted the frame, footpegs, and sidestand. Changed the fork oil and got the chassis mostly together. I have a vertex piston on the way, the crank has been rebuilt by Cooksey and is on it's way back, and I have a whole bunch of parts coming from Halls (They had almost everything I ordered in stock - I was suprised - the only thing from this order that was discontinued was the wheel bearing seal retainer that threads into into the left side of the hub).

So I think the only things that are hard to find for this bike are the rod kit, wheel bearing seal retainer, shop manual, and plastics - not to bad. I found a rod, and I can make due without the rest. I may be able to find a seal retainer from an older model Honda CR - Does anyone what year may fit? If not it will still work without the seal. My trials bike doesn't have wheel bearing seals and it works just fine. The sealed bearings are exposed and they still spin like new after 4 years.

As soon as I get the rear wheel bearings I'll have a rolling chassis. Then it will be on to engine assembly.

AUSKY, Could you look up a few things from your manual for me sometime?
1. Recommended NGK spark plug?
2. Recommended fork oil weight and level? I used 5 wt and 110mm oil level - just want to know if I am close.
3. Recommended jetting for sea level for the 35mm TM carb - just need a starting point (I'm actually at 6,000 ft but I'll figure it out from there)
4. Recommended timing alignment of stator. I did mark it before I took it off, but I don't see any index marks in there.
Thanks.

I did find a manual for an '04 so I can get all of the engine torque specs from there - I doubt they are much different.

I'm not very good about getting photos when I'm working on it. I'll try to remember to get a few to post.

Oh, and another question. Does anyone know if the crank can be installed into the right side bearing without the OEM crank installer tool? It looks like it is a press fit. Will it go in by freezing the crank and applying a little heat to the bearing? Looking at other crank installer tools (like Tusk), I don't think they will work on this crank. I suppose I could make one somehow.

Has anyone tried euro rods in florida. They have a bunch of rods that are hard to find. Thats where i had to get mine