1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

125-200cc 2004 WR250 check up...

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by Terrence R, Sep 6, 2014.

  1. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Hi there. I just joined the forum and never owned a husqvarna before. My buddy has an 07 TE510 and he turned me into wanting a husky. I just looked at an 04 WR250 2 stroke that is in excellent shape. I'm supposed to go pick it up and pay for it in a few hours. I can't find too much info online about these bikes, but what I have found is good info. However, the compression is low, 160 psi according to my tester. It should be near 200psi, right? Driving it around it seemed to have weak bottom end, a mid range bog, but very powerful on high rpms. So I think rebuilding the top end is in order. That helped me get a better deal on the bike. Anything else I should look for? Everything else seems very tight ( bearings, spokes, suspension is good, no leaks, flywheel feels tight). Do any powervalve parts fail prematurely? I heard of those kick starters having problems. What should I look for there? Ohh, and this is a 100th anniversary 2004 USA model. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanx.
  2. shrubitup Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Seattle WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '00 TE610 (pretty much a WXE610)
    Other Motorcycles:
    Husaberg FE450, KTM 200EXC, Triumph
    both kicker and power valve have no known problems at least that I'm aware of. Kicker is different than say a Japanese MX bike. You hafta find TDC and kick without throttle like a four stroke - at least my Mikuni TMX equipped WR300 is that way. You should also lean bike over each cold start to get new fuel into carburetor and then charge the cylinder with a few slow push through "kicks" before trying to actually start it.
  3. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Ok. That's good info. Thanx. Do u know off hand what issues occure with the power valves in most cases? It's got me wondering if that's why the compression is low and the only power I can find is on top end. Are the power valve parts generally expensive? My buddy's want me to take it out tomorrow for our usual Sunday rip, but i'ld rather not drive it until after I open up the top end to see what I'm dealing with. Looks like the old yamaha I have will be on the trails tomorrow instead. I really want to build this husky up real nice and I want to do it right the first time.
  4. woodzi Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Waterloo, ON
    The power valves can stick and that would explain the lack of bottom end. Take the cover off and make sure it moves when you rev the engine.

    It could also explain a lower compression reading if the power valve is stuck open (although I wouldn't worry about a compression test result unless it is really low)
  5. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Woodzi, I really hope you're right. If they're stuck from spooge, what would u recommend using to clean all up with? Probably not brake cleaner or carb cleaner ehh?

    One more thing; one of the previous owners had the bike registered as road legal. When he wired up the rear brake switch, he drilled a hole in the bottom right corner of the airbox. I'm sure I could plug the hole up with something to seal it up, but there's also a small crack beside the hole now. Are these air boxes expensive new/used? ( 2004 100th anniv WR250 USA model). I don't have a local dealership as I live in New Brunswick Canada. I checked ebay, but had no luck. Do u think its worth fixing the airbox? What would u recommend on the crack? I'm guessing something that won't be disturbed by fuel? Thanx.
  6. shawbagga Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Eaton, Western Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    None
    Other Motorcycles:
    2018 Gasgas XC250
    he might have drilled the hole for drainage-I did the same thing then sealed up the slot in the bottom(which lets in way too much water!). bit of silicone or super glue for crack would suffice for a cheap fix perhaps?
  7. troy deck Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Republic MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    87 250wr 12 cr125
    Other Motorcycles:
    kx65 ty80 rm80 kdx250
    well Kellys got an 02 250 and 04 125 and they flat rip so id say your good you just gotta:love: on it right i say grab it n go:thumbsup:
  8. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Ok, so I took the pv cover off and started the bike. Everything seems to be rolling as it should once revved. However, the little gear seems really loose. Is that normal? Is there a bearing in the cylinder that the shaft with the gear is on? Seems really loose to me. I'm trying to figure out how to upload a video of it that I just took. Any help? It's on an iPhone.
  9. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Update: just cleaned the carb really good. It's hard to believe that the bike idled so smooth, cause honestly, the pilot jet was plugged solid. Cleaned everything up and it's now running awesome! It's alive! Lol.

    On another note, I am still worried about how loose that power valve gear is. I see some threads on the end of it, but no bolt! Is there supposed to be a bolt in the center that holds it on? If it's not all that clear on what I'm asking about, I will upload a pic ( if I can figure out how! LOL). Thanx.
    Motosportz likes this.
  10. Xcuvator Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Scholls Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE450,610 WB165,WR250 WR360 & XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    yes
    The hole is for pulling the gear and bearing out.
  11. gwynfryn Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 wr250
    Take the airbox out (pretty simple when you lower the sub frame) and get it plastic welded. I noticed a crack in mine the first time I washed the bike(brand new bike). The crack was the full width of the air box starting from one of the mount holes above the shock mud flap.The plastic is of a type that can be easily welded , if its small enough a heated screw driver might close it.
  12. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Gwynfryn, excellent point about the plastic welding. I'm definitely looking into that. Thanx.

    Now about the pv gear bearing: it's pretty sloppy loose. How long do u figure I can rip around on the bike before I replace it? I was planning on tearing the whole bike apart this winter. But, should I change that bearing right away if I'm ganna be riding the bike in the mean time?

    I took the bike out lastnight with a buddy of mine on his husky. The suspension is so smooth and the power is very impressive. I don't really like the close ratio tranny gearing for tight woods riding. It's geared really tall right now so I'll be gearing it down right away, but I'll be loosing a lot of top speed by doing so. Too bad they don't have the old 6 speed gear box anymore ehh? Also, the headlight is super terrible. Any recommendations on a new bulb to brighten things up? Thanx.
  13. Terrence R Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2004 WR250 2 stroke
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 TTR250R
    Bump...

    I'm very interested to know if running the bike with that power valve bearing worn sloppy is really bad news or not that big of an issue right now. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanx.