Hi everyone, I'm interested in disconnecting my TPS but not sure what it looks like... Can anyone describe the process to me? I think it's relatively easy but I'm not sure and the PDF manual I have doesn't really have good pictures or a description on how to do this. Thanks! M
TPS = Throttle Positioning Sensor. Basically a potentiometer on the carb to tell another part of the ignition system what position the throttle is at. There is an electrical connector you can unplug - the wires lead to the carb, very close to the carb.
I disconnected it (thanks for the hint, it helped) It's weird, because I can't really tell what's different about the bike now. It feels smoother, it feels like I have to twist the throttle further to get the same effect, it feels like it's still about the same speed in terms of acceleration, but maybe slightly less "jerky" in it's power...more of a curve in power delivery than a BLAST of power when twisting the throttle.. once the bike warmed up I did notice quite a lot less stuttering though. WEIRD BIKE!!! But super fun.
TPS So if you unplug the TPS doesn't that leave the timing in a "retarded"...no pun condition so that you'll lose power since the ignition won't advance. Unless I've got it backwards I don't get the benefit of unplugging it...assuming it is working correctly.
I have no clue as to what actually happens when you unplug the TPS. All I know is a lot of other guys with this bike seem to have tried doing that, so I thought I'd try it. some say it helps, some say it doesn't...not sure yet if it helped me, gotta give it a few days of riding in different temperatures to really tell.
some times i think we are all nuts,, the entire system has been designed to work in conjunction with its various feeds. IMHO I would not disconnect the TPS from the Ignition system. It is a step backward in tech. Let the machine run as designed,,, there is or are not 1 or maybe just 1 or 2 riders here that can find the full potential of any one of these machines. If Micky Dymond or Delepine said that the GP motos or Husky World super moto team removed their TPS for better 610 performance then there would be some consideration. Back yard seat of the pants mechs need not be making too many changes. Again if you are after performance (which most of us can't even use anyway) follow the racing teams,,believe me they are trying to tap every bit performance out of their bikes. Just my thoughts
here's what seemed to have happened after unplugging the TPS: The bike revs higher, quicker. Can't tell if it's delivering the same amount of power, but it feels like it might be delivering less, or in a way that's less "wild" like the bike initially felt with TPS plugged in. Stuttering definitly down ALOT and much less invasive when it does happen. I'll probably end up plugging it back in , because as you said, this bike has the TPS for a reason and if the racers are keeping it plugged in, then go figure, it's probably there for a good reason. probably gonna install a new NGK iridium plug and then see how it performs with TPS plugged back in.
Many people report detonation leading to motor failure from disconnecting the TPS. Something to think about.
Plug it back in dude. The tps controls ignition advance in relation to throttle opening and engine RPM. With the tps dissconected you are asking for a high RPM engine failure. I have founf the stuttering you are experiencing is usually a miss jetted carb and the lack of the proper Iridium spark plug in the bike. Using factory jets from the 450's and 510's (they come with a bag of jets) I get the 610's to run great from sea level to 8000 feet. I have not had a chance to ride at over 8000, but I am sure it would run ok even at higher elevations. I have also found that with a Leo Vince pipe with the quite insert and the spark arrestor, adjusting the fuel screw to a mixture of about 4% CO will give perfect off idle response and not die in technical stuff. You also want to make sure you have the OBDVR needle in the carb, some of the 610's came with a different needle. I do not have my note book with my jetting records for 610's handy, I think one of my techs took it and lost it. My head is in the new injected bikes now and I have purged the jet numbers I found to work from my memory, but I am sure you can figure it out.
No indication of knocking, however the bike does alarmingly rev up to the high RPM's quite easily... Have to say I'm grateful my clutch cable broke yesterday in the middle of a ride---maybe that was fate giving me a break: A broken clutch cable over a ruined engine. I've ordered the Iridium plug so we'll see if that helps with the stutter. TPS goes back on too. Thanks for the warnings!
oh my god plugged TPS back in, updated the spark plug with an Iridium Bike runs perfectly now, no stutter, so smooth damn it was a bitch to get this all figured out but sure worth it.
hey guys, or girls -- hey I was wondering if there's any chance the TPS needs a "reboot" from the computer or some weird thing like that? Or, if just plugging it back in turns it back on? I'm just wondering, the bike is running perfectly (finally) but I still feel like it revs up kinda high, kinda easy. Is this normal? the bike is way faster now, maybe that's why? faster with the Iridium CR8EIX plug. if just plugging it back in is the normal way, then cool. Otherwise can someone let me know if I need to do anything else.? Thanks! Noob
That is all you needed to do, just plug it in. It would be awesome if you could get together with another rider to ride and maybe swap bikes and experiment/compare. Approximate location?
hey Coffee! yeah that's a good idea, that would be cool. i'm down in los angeles. any LA guys who have a husky sm610 wanna get together, would be cool!
irridium plug I've at an 06 610 TE with (now) a little miss/hesitation just below a steady 1/4 throttle. It's much improved from what it was. It has always run great except that one throttle position. Great at idle, easy starting and super on WFO. The TPS has always been connected. I've had the carb off and cleaned it, done three rejettings with the needle position, and pilot jet. It's also got the OB-whatever needle that was mentioned. I've now got it about as good as I'm going to get it I guess with the main 172, pilot 42, leak 80 and needle second clip from the top. Also, I've got a new plug. It runs very well except for that one spot and I don't notice it anywhere now except when I'm on a straight stretch of road...happily, not that often. I can now "ride around" the irritation without much difficulty or aggravation. So...what's the deal with irridium. I suppose the story is a cleaner burn in the same heat range. Fill me in! You think this would help. Doug
I understand the advantage of the iridium tipped plugs is that they reach the self-cleaning temp faster (same heat range)...and stay there resulting in a more efficient ignition/combustion cycle. FYI the Denso plug comes with the ignition wire plug screw already attached, as opposed to the NGK does not include the screw on tip, though one from a standard auto plug fits fine. I ran a single Denso Iridium in my TE450 for the 6,000/300 hours I owned it and it still looks perfect, I expect the new owner will not need to change it any time soon.
