1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

125-200cc 2008 CR165 Jetting

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by racemx904, Jan 7, 2016.

  1. racemx904 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    owenton, ky
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2014 Beta 350RR & 1986 430XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    1975 Rokon and 2004 Kawasaki KX65
    What is everyone using?

    FMF pipe and silencer

    I've always ran basically no idle just not sure on this thing....

    Idle seems to be hanging high for a few seconds...

    Its super crisp and sweet power.... no clutch wheelies without a problem.....

    Not sure of current jetting didnt have a chance to open it up tonight
  2. R-J van Hulst Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cambodia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125 + 40 = WB 165 and a SM165
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda CB 400 Vtec 3
    I have a lectron 38 on it :D:doh:

    Robert-Jan
  3. Huskynoobee CH Sponsor ZipTy Racing

    Location:
    Castaic, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE449 2006 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    HDUltra Classic IT200 YZ250 SV650s
    Maybe it's just the air screw?
  4. rockdancer Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Sunshine Coast, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 WR125, 2019 FE350
    whats in it ?

    Old carb - possibly 380 or 400 main and 30 pilot - may want to use 35 pilot
  5. racemx904 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    owenton, ky
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2014 Beta 350RR & 1986 430XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    1975 Rokon and 2004 Kawasaki KX65
    My bad its been cold here and to lazy to freeze my rear off to fox jetting... it the stock mikuni
  6. Bill502 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR167 1978 CR250 1938 sw maus
    Other Motorcycles:
    1970 Triumph T100C 1973 Honda TL125
    I have the following for jetting in my 2007 WR167 with the square slide TMX
    Main 390
    Needle 6DJ8-62 clip in 2nd groove from top
    Pilot 32.5
    Air Screw 1.5 out but that depends on the temp I'm between 600-1500 feet above sea level.
    racemx904 likes this.
  7. racemx904 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    owenton, ky
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2014 Beta 350RR & 1986 430XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    1975 Rokon and 2004 Kawasaki KX65
    Ok I'm way rich I'm 35 and 400 and 1.5 out....
  8. steadydirt Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 2002 wr 250 1994 wxe 250
    Other Motorcycles:
    fj 1100 cb500 cb350 rt 200 xs 650
    make sure- i seized my 165 with a 390main- the needle is key
  9. wallybean Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    Montana
    I have to think the 400 main is right. I would be interested in what needle you have.
  10. Bill502 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR167 1978 CR250 1938 sw maus
    Other Motorcycles:
    1970 Triumph T100C 1973 Honda TL125
    If your bike is running crisp as you say in your first post I wouldn't change the main unless it is blubbering badly on wide open throttle. If your MXing it keep it on the rich side. My jetting works for me but I am just light trail riding and it's a WR with a different ignition and flywheel.
    wallybean likes this.
  11. wallybean Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    Montana
    The 165 kit has more bottom end compression/vacuum than the spacer plate fitted 167. It tends to like a bit smaller pilot than stock vs the 167 from my experience. Main should stay at stock(400) or a step richer if you are MX'ing or riding sand. Trouble is that every one of these tend to be a bit different from the next and of course your conditions and riding style will dictate. I like to start with the needle a bit on the rich side and adjust from there.

    I set up a 165 with the old style TMX this summer in our area(high elevation, cooler, and dry), 25 pilot, needle in the 4th slot down, and 400 main worked very well or as well as the tmx can run while making 5000' changes in elevation every ride. We start at a minimum elevation of 4000' so this setup doesn't translate to many areas. Also it was a CR ignition which makes a big difference. I thought I was done with jetting carbs but not everyone wants to plop down the coins for a metering rod carb.

    Just as a plug, I save enough on fuel in two years to pay for the metering rod carbs. 20 mpg vs 40 mpg. Yours will vary but I ride mostly on the bottom/mid so the fuel economy is outstanding. I also finally found out that the 2.5 gallon advertised capacity of the '12 wr tank is actually 2.25 gallons. I hit reserve at 86 miles and thought it was early for that ride. Ended up a 92 mile ride and I had a whole 16 oz left. Lots of sand washes, fast two track, and highly technical climbing/decents all mixed in. A little over 43 mpg even though there was a lot of WOT running(high speeds). At home in the crap it is always closer to 40. JFYI
    lankydoug, NCSteve and 454x like this.
  12. racemx904 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    owenton, ky
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2014 Beta 350RR & 1986 430XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    1975 Rokon and 2004 Kawasaki KX65
    I dont have the coin for one of those fancy carbs lol

    I've never had a problem jetting.... I just havent even started on this bike really.... I will probably stay rich on top since I'm a little bigger guy and like to rev it sometimes.... but here mostly be xc racing and no sand just clay and mud.... i do have a CR ignition also and about 900 ft elevation.... the idle is set high for some reason I lowered it some but I think it need to go down more.... I dont need mileage that much really, if I have to stop once during a hare scramble for a splash f gas its no big deal really....

    thanks for the help Wally.... what should the compression be on this thing? whats a ring and gaskets run?