2009 Husqvarna TE250 iBeat setting procedure. This procedure is similar to what I would do when a driver would complain about poor throttle response on a Cosworth XFE when I was doing track support for the ChampCar World series and worked at Cosworth. This is what worked for me. Start bike and bring up to operating temperature. Turn off bike and perform the following steps. Back off the hard throttle stop all the way. Open and close the throttle several times and make sure it is closed all the way. Now reset T.P.S. to 0% with iBeat. Turn in the hard throttle stop until it touches the wheel + ¼ turn. This should give you a 0.2 to 0.3 % reading on the stop and a 105.0 to 105.1 % reading at full throttle. Now set co1 = 115%, co2 = 108% and co3 = 107%. Start up the bike and set the idle to 1600 with the thumb screw. This made the throttle response so much better with NO MORE stalling.
I’m still trying to figure this thing out. With my previous settings the idle speed wanted to hunt and would stall occasionally at idle. I’m now at 1 full turn in on the hard stop and reset the T.P.S. to 100.4 at full throttle. The idle thumb screw is now at 2 ¾ turns out from fully seated (1650 R.P.M.). I changed my cO settings to 118/112/107 I did this after removing the S.A. The bike runs better than it ever has. Has anyone found any documented (Husky/Mikuni) procedure for setting the throttle body and T.P.S.? Every system that I have worked with in the past; you set the throttle blade opening with a feeler gauge, then you adjusted the T.P.S. to a specific number. I’m sure there is a sweet spot in this system with the relationship between throttle blade opening and T.P.S. setting. Any help would be appreciated.
The procedure you followed in your first post is similar in effect to BBCMat's "MY DIY EFY Tweak" in that you adjusted the hardstop after setting the TPS setting in Ibeat... Your result of 100.5 is close to what is commonly recommended for the 250/310 which is 100.4. Now it appears you adjusted to achieve 100.4 WOT. But the 100.4 WOT setting is suggested with the correct TPS setting in Ibeat (meaning the two closed throttle voltages match). In your initial adjustment you documented the 2 voltages would not match. The 100.2 for 450/510's and 100.4 for 250/310s is not referenced in a document from Mikuni or Husqvarna that anyone can produce as reference that I know of (never seen it). I have looked as many have for a more specific procedure- I have had dealers tell me not to touch the hardstop at all as they don't- in responce to me stating "how does anyone know it was ever set correctly?". I think we've all come along way since then... Those numbers come from members here finding info from racing teams and how they adjust- at least that's where it was said to have come from when I first saw them. At this point it appears the baseline adjustment for 450/510 and 250/310 is 100.2 and 100.4 respectively. Though some owners of new x-lite motors appear to still be doing some tweaking on the numbers and using higher numbers... The numbers have worked for many and is accepted as a standard. The procedure for achieving 100.2 or 100.4 WOT is as follows: -Go to the WOT screen in Ibeat- and adjust to (100.2 or 100.4 depending on bike) Turn the throttle to Fully WOT and adjust by loosening the 8mm nut on the hardstop and adjusting the 2.5 metric allen bolt till it says the target number (100.2 or 100.4) on the screen- tighten the nut on the hardstop while holding the allen bolt (reminds me of adjusting tappets on a RFS Ktm). -Then close the throttle and go to the TPS screen- and click “set” to make the Closed throttle voltage from the bike the same as the Closed Throttle Voltage the ECU. Done. One thing I notice from your post is that your rpms are at 1650 at idle- if that because that’s what it says to have in the owners’ manual- Just know that I don’t know of many who reportedly have had any positive results with that low of an RPM- Most are running somewhere 1950-2100 with much better results (especially if you are having stalls and problems at low rpms.) This may be a key issue in your attempts to find the right state of tune for your bike. Your CO1 setting as well as your tps adjustment may be effecting if you cannot achieve 2000 rpms within the normal 2-3 turns out on your air bypass screw… My recommendation: set tps as above, and then try to adjust the air bypass to achieve 2000 rpms while noting the amount of turns, then test. I would then adjust the CO1 and Air bypass as needed. Though it sounds like you are very close to where you want to be
Thanks, HUSKYnXJnWI My bike idles way too high if I leave the throttle stop screwed in to achieve the mV (1055) needed for the 100.4% W.O.T. number. I set the throttle stop @ ¾ turns in and forced the Adjustment Value to be 1055 mV. I think we need to set the throttle plate to throttle bore to a specific number, then be able to rotate the T.P.S. to a get the proper mV setting. With other E.F.I. systems, I have never seen any two T.P.S.’s that would read the exact same value anyway. It probably doesn’t really matter since the E.C.U. uses the Adjusted Value to calculate fueling. This is what I have now, the bike runs real good around the neighborhood, we shall see how it performs in the real world. Actual T.P.S. Value off stop (seated in throttle body) = 908 mV Actual T.P.S. Value ¾ turns in on hard stop = 923 mV Adjustment Value needed to achieve 100.4% W.O.T. = 1055 mV W.O.T. now = 100.3% to 100.5% depending on temperature co1 = 112% / co2 = 108% / co3 = 104% Idle Speed = 1850 to 1900 R.P.M. @ 2 ¼ turns out on air screw 1750 to 1800 R.P.M. @ 2 ½ turns out on air screw
The greatest change in airflow vs throttle plate movement occurs off-idle. The greatest effect of misadjusted throttle position occurs off-idle. A misadjusted throttle is one that is not in the same position as the reference machine when the ECU and it's engine operating parameters / algorithms are set. (as to achieve the desired operating characteristics of the reference machine) The REFERENCE POINT for throttle position is full throttle. The idle position is full throttle minus the span of the TPS input to the ECU. The bike idles 1850-2150 rpm powered up with idle air bleed 2.75 turns out. There is no right and wrong - only the reference points for the original programming. These were outlined on a page in the original training sessions for factory mechanics 2008. The 100.2% / 100.4% / 2 .75 turns out / 1850-2150 rpm reference points have been told to me from 3 different and unrelated sources in the Husky supply chain. (No internet regurgitation). Set your bike up anyway YOU want. In my experience – the best throttle response and power ends up bringing me back to these basics. With my 2009 TE510 and the stock ECU – the spark arrestor screen has to be in. That would seem to imply what I am looking to achieve is also the same as the original reference machine used for programming back in 2008. Search my posts on this board for the backflips I went through to arrive right back at the factory setup. I dislike the factory idle speed – but the limited access to the THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM means (for my performance criteria) I have to live with it. If my definition of a good tune-up was “starts good, goes fast, and doesn’t foul plugs” then there would be more latitude. MAT
