2009 TXC 450 Overheating issues

Hey guys, I really love this bike, but the more technical the trail (slower speeds and more clutch) I am having over heating issues. My first plan of action is: New Radiator cap, remove water and use Ty Davis XF2 waterless coolant, and I would like to put the High flow water pump in.

Here is the problem, I can't find the water pump anywhere, Does any of have any leads? Part number is 8000H2449 High Flow Water pump..............

Any other suggestions out there? I am all ears.

Do you have a fan?

no fan, if I add a fan how would it be wired? I have no computer or sensor to turn off and on. I could add a manual switch?

Add a fan with a switch.

Make sure your jetting is good and not too lean (which will heat it up).

Do big blocks TXC have an overflow tank?

anyway- confirm you have coolant flow: bike cold, radiator cap off (and full coolant!)- start the bike up and observe that after a few moments the warm coolant is rushing by the filler neck (not just "fizzing" with small turbulence).

if not, think thermostat (if txc's have 'em) or bad impeller. if the flow is good, make sure the radiator has good airflow (no dirt, leaves etc) and then we'll figure out if the motor is getting abnormally hot.

...and if there is really no problem- hell, a higher pressure cap and/or a fan may solve your issues.

good luck.

ps- the redheads have an inline (in-hose) thermo-switch which works independently of the ECU (and is for 5/8" hose size, IIRC) which controls the fan. Also, the aftermarket has a thermo-switch that works by inserting it into the radiator fins. Either one can work independently or in parallel with a manual switch.

I see some aftermarket fans that are self contained with own thermo switch. I like idea of having redundant fan system at left radiator... Hmmm

Thank you all, great advice.

A couple of things:

• water flows great with the cap off.
• No ECU, no thermostat, all carb
• Checked Radiator and even reversed washed the fins on the outside to make sure they are clean.

I did find that the pump impeller nut was loose, not sure it had impact, because flow looked good in the radiator, but who knows. retighten and locktighten it.

It is running lean, and this could be a part of the culprit, one thing that it didn't due was backfire on decel, now it does, time to pull the carb apart and clean.

New cap, changing out Antifreeze to XL4 from Ziptie, I certainly don't need antifreeze in Southern Ca.

I would love to get the High Pressure Pump, but looks like that might be a tough one to find, they don't make it anymore and the shops that used to have are all sold out.

Going to add a fan, does a TE fan shroud and fan work on a TXC or TC? There are some universal options as well, I certainly want a pull fan too.

Too modest suggestions that might help at the margin once you have revised the carby from being too lean. Fit an Iridium spark plug and use the highest grade fuel you can buy. Jointly they will give you a cleaner and cooler burn that will assist with your issues.
Would like to know how matters pan out please Cookies.

If it still has the t fitting to connect the two radiators try to get the y fitting to equal the flow from them.

If the backfiring is new, something changed probably. Besides the carb, look at the manifold too- for cracks, looseness.

A loose impeller may have affected coolant flow at higher RPMs. Since the nut was loose, you might want to take it off and inspect it for wear or a wallowed out hole.

I CRS.... but wasn't the "High Pressure Pump" just an aftermarket impeller? 7602? ...and huskys of your era didn't really have too much over-heating issues either- well, compared to KTMs.

I also want to add that the two thermo-switches I mentioned do NOT need an ECU... they are heat-activated. One by hot water, the other by hot air. I don't know if I confused the issue. And if you get a fan, you probably want at least 150cf/min airflow, 200+ would be better.

the husky flows at a very high rate i am talking about the standard pump; if you hook up a hose to the pump it will shoot water an easy 12 feet. has to b something other then a pump IMHO

well, maybe... except OP Cookies mentioned his impeller nut was loose. So it may have been a factor.

Cookies, any news?

Sorry for the delay, once I started working on the bike, I pulled off the skid plate only to find a broken bolt that holds the clutch cover on, had to drill out, tap it and get a new cover.

I haven't had a chance to take it riding yet, but hear is what I have done on the cooling side.

Tighten the Impeller on pump
New Radiators, the olds ones were bent up more than I thought once I get them off.
All New hoses
Ziptie waterless coolant
richen up the idle circuit, well I think the red screw on the bottom of the carb does that? I put it at two full turns, it was at 1 turn. I tried to research, couldn't find much.
Pulled carb off, cleaned the jets with wire.

Engine itself seems much cooler just idling already.

After test ride, if I still have cooling issues, a fan is going on, not sure I can do anything after that..........

with all that you've done to the cooling system- I'm thinking you're not going to have a problem anymore. (did you see anything wrong with the loose impeller?)

The fuel screw being turned out another full turn will definitely richen it up- as will poking a wire thru a clogged jet (use a nylon bristle or chemical cleaner though). if your jet was clogged, I might clean every circuit in the carb too; and this might also explain the backfiring.

turn off the fuel petcock when you stop riding for more than a few minutes/hour.

look inside your old radiators and see if there is any junk at the bottom.

Thanks for getting back to us.