1. 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

2010 Tc 250 No Start

Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by rou, Jun 28, 2018.

  1. rou Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TC 250
    hey, i bought a 2010 TC 250 from someone who had recently done a thorough TOP END, replaced valves, springs and seals, shims + piston etc. i changed oil and cleaned/oiled the air filter when i got it and have ridden it about 1 hour in total in 20 min goes.

    the last time i pushed it outside the chain popped off at the link, i noticed that when in gear the clutch wont fully disengage and drags the back wheel, but as the engines cold maybe thats why? i replaced the clutch plates and the chain/sprockets. the basket had slight grooving but not serious.

    it now wont start at all and kicks back violently.

    i checked the valves, the manual says 0.20 for exhaust and 0.15 for intake. left side are spot on but right side EX and IN are 0.025 smaller. is this a small enough allowance or does it need to be re-shimmed? i cant find any ranges in the manual, it just says 0.20 and 0.15.

    i replaced the spark plug too and i can see a spark but its very faint, even in a dim garage.

    is it a timing issue?

    it was running beautifully for the few short trips i took it out on, so very sad that its totally dead now! im trying to get it ready for a music video next month, so anyone that can offer any advice, thanks in advance!

    rou
  2. Trenchcoat85 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NorCal
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '14 TE 310R
    Other Motorcycles:
    '85 shovel, '75 DT400, '97 XR400
    kickback: It does sound like a timing issue. And it almost sounds like a sheared rotor key, but I don't know that I've heard of a TC xlite doing that (the TXCs and TEs: yep, many threads; check it out). another source of timing issues is a bad trigger coil. Your ignition coil could be bad also.

    clutch drag- these bikes are famous for it. switching to zeroW-40 oil may help. burp the clutch slave and line (IOW- bleed it).
  3. rou Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TC 250
    thanks so much! ill try those! do you know where i could get the right key? i cant find one online, maybe a ktm one would fit?
  4. Trenchcoat85 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NorCal
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '14 TE 310R
    Other Motorcycles:
    '85 shovel, '75 DT400, '97 XR400
    the woodruff key will be the least of your concerns; and should be available all over.

    confirm you have a problem before pulling your hair out over $0.75 solutions.

    [you want part# 151371301, and I searched on that: looks like you stumbled across the most common husky part in history. hmmm, I would've thought it would've been a M6 bolt. anyways, the low price so far is $1.88 and the high is above $4... which is w-a-a-a-a-a-y too much for a 23 cent part which you may not need yet]
  5. R_Little Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NJ
    Trenchcoat is correct. Kickback like that means out of time.

    I've never heard of a sheared key on a TC. But it would not hurt to check, especially since the motor was just rebuilt. Good chance the PO did not tighten the flywheel nut enough and it sheared. Put a wrench on it and see if you can't break it loose even without a flywheel holder. Good chance you can.
    Could be the last guy did not have a holder and did not tighten it enough.

    I don't know if the TE flywheel holder fits the TC. Contact ZipTY racing and ask.

    OTOH, the 20120 TC250 is a good bike but it is notorious for hard starting when HOT.

    Check that woodruff key.

    I don't think the clutch drag is that common. I may have a spare clutch basket if you need one. Since you put new plates in yours, you can consider lightly filing the grooves on the basket for a quick fix.