2010 TC 250 VALVE REPLACEMENT PARTS

I can find ti valves but thinking about maybe steel- stainless but couldn't find any.I know they usually come packaged with different springs ,retainers and keepers when going stainless .The seats will probably be an issue as well. any ideas?

I have not been able to find stainless valves for a x-lite. When I emailed kibblewhite they said they can custom make them.

But they won't sell them unless you send them the cylinder head.

I got some from Bob at Central Jersey Cycles in NJ for 2012 txc. Normally I try him or Halls. I live in NJ so I try Bob first.

You got stainless valves from Bob?

Sorry no I got Stock Ti. I wasn't following he was looking for aftermarket.

Joe

Gus, why are you wanting to change your valves? Have you had a breakdown with your engine? Save question to you Joe ... I've got 2 of these bikes, both over 300 hrs... I've done the rings on one bike only ... The next maintenance item(s) past rings is gonna be a little trickier I'm thinking ...

I started loosing my adjustment quickly on "one" exhaust valve recently, seats/seat margins appeared to be ok but "valve" face was worn further into seat and noticed the valve keeper seat on valve was starting to round. I think I possibly saved my engine from major damage by looking really close to each part in valve train. I 'm going to have the seats done just to be safe...I know Ti valves are using beryllium seats and I can use my old springs and stainless uses different seats but also will need new springs, caps and retainers (most s/s kits are complete packages when you order them and price isn't far off from just the Ti valve, seats ,caps and retainer). I have about 355 hours on this engine and I too have replaced just the rings only once ! ..it will be getting a new Wossner piston kit during this rebuild. The crank/rod is still tight, the cylinder is still in spec for roundness but loosing some of cross-hatch marks. I LOVE THIS LITTLE 2010 TC !!! ...of course I love my '07 WR125 too ,but just some minor suspension set up, that TC is my" DO ALL" bike

No sounds from the head\valves? Just the adjustment on the valve was getting wacky? Did you take any pics of worn valve keeper seat? I'm much weaker on the internals of the engine that the exterior so this is like walking on egg shells for me ... My ring-only job stopped my oil from disappearing from the engine 100% so I'm really happy with that work and it was pretty simple to accomplish ... My big-end bearing was also AOK. Also glad to hear someone else is riding their bike past the specs given out in the manuals ...

What's with that Wossner piston kit?

If no one else, I'd like to see the work you do with the valve job ...I'm pretty clueless on your words above but I do not want a head exploding on me, so I gotta bite that bulllet ..

Hope I'm not over the question quota limit, but I stay off the REV limiter and probably stay under 10K RPMs ... Can you say the same thing about your riding?

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Mine is a do-all bike also ... I just found about the most awesome mountain uphill road I've ever ridden (that I can remember) and the bike is all I want for that ~thrill or attempt at getting ~75% of what the bike is capable of delivering .. I'll be taking the same bike to our local sx type track this week ... And yes, the bike is not perfect, same as it's owner ... But it's all I want and I am not looking for anything else someone might call better ...

I am a little fanatical about upkeep... or should I say excessive . I check my valves every 20 hours and didn't notice any noticeable movement until 300 hours! After that is when I started seeing the same amount of wear/adjustment. Loose valves generally have a rattle noise, tight valves will not- of course too tight, then things could get ugly ,especially if you are hitting the rev limiter continuously....but it sounds like your not a hyper ,pin the throttle at all cost kinda guy...me either.

I would say first is to keep a good record of any service work you have done that way if things don't start looking right you've got some history . If you start noticing your valves needing to be adjusted every interval you set up to check them, something is going on...this is were logging your info becomes valuable. If they are moving(clearance changing) but aren't enough to shim to get in spec, they are probably ok.
Doing / replacing valves in the Husky is fairly easy , but before tearing into any engine I do a leak down test - get some idea if the valve is leaking thru the seat area....if there is, time to check head/valve train (there is also a dye you can use to check seat sealing but I never used it)
I was told years ago that you NEVER lap Ti valves to seat them ,so that's when you need a good machine shop to cut the seats to match. Also, I never reuse valve retainer clips ,caps or valve guide seals when I do my new valves.
I wish I could be more help...never dawned on me to record/photograph my teardown. I could try and take some pics of the valve and keepers to show the wear and the valve seat wear.
Oh yeah, Wossner....exceptional wear and slight bump in compression. Used them in my 410 and 570....I road my TE 410 on the street and trails and a year of enduro's ....I bought it for cheap because it was an oil burner-freshened up the top end w/the Wossner ,had it for 5 years and sold it to my nephew who still rides today ...about 16 years on that same piston!

Hello, does anyone know where to buy valves for husqvarna TC250 2010?
Maybe existing some replica or something like this made from steel?