1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

125-200cc 2011 CR150 clutch drag

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by montgob1, Dec 21, 2011.

  1. montgob1 Husqvarna
    A Class

    My 09 CR and 11 CR have the exact same lever and cable for the clutch. The 09 has a bunch of hours, the 11 has like 2. The 09 never crept when i put it in gear, the 11 does it every time, and the levers are adjusted the same. The 11 still starts in gear fine, it just kind of annoys me. I read somewhere that the CR got some TC clutch parts in 2010 or 2011?? i havnt seen or verified that. What i am feeling at the track tells me there might be something different for the 11 under the cover though. Anybody else noticed this?
  2. jmetteer Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Woodland, WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TXC300 CR125 CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    WR250F, TRANSALP
    My 09 did that too at about the 10 hour mark...

    Right after you rode it. :lol:

    Later,
  3. krieg Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Matthews, NC
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    Many in the past
    Other Motorcycles:
    '12 Triumph Scrambler
    Our 11 CR has no drag.
  4. PowerKord Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Notheast Ohio
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 WR 250 Sold
    Other Motorcycles:
    2014 Sherco SE-R 250
    What are you using for tranny fluid? Mobil 1 solved the problem on my 250.
  5. Blakelpd5 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Tigard, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09 WRWB165
    Other Motorcycles:
    08 CRF450R, 1980 Suzuki Wetbike
    I noticed I had bad clutch drag too (after switching oils), and couldn't get it to start in gear 75% of the time I switched to rotella and el-probelmo solved... 09 WR125
  6. montgob1 Husqvarna
    A Class

    I run walmart oil in the 09, 11 has expensive louse lousy dealer oil.
  7. Bill502 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 WR167 1978 CR250 1938 sw maus
    Other Motorcycles:
    1970 Triumph T100C 1973 Honda TL125
    Which Rotella are you using?
    thanks
    Bill
  8. LawnDartMike Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Salem, OR USA
    I tried the Rotella syn (cheap by the gallon at Wallmart) and it helped a bunch. Now I use ATF since it works and is MUCH cheaper.
  9. NWRider Husqvarna
    AA Class

    All my Huskys have been picky about oil. I have had the best luck for the money with Delo LE. It works better then the cheap Rotella for me. The syn Rotella works OK but not much different then the Delo. The best I have used is 0-40 weight Mobile 1 or Amsoil but they are expensive and regardless what oil I run it starts shifting bad if I go more then two rides.
  10. johnnyboy Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM 250f
    ATF to my mind is the way to go, its thin, can withstand heat, and is good for clutch plates, also you can buy a gallon at a good price so regular changes cost next to nothing
  11. Blakelpd5 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Tigard, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09 WRWB165
    Other Motorcycles:
    08 CRF450R, 1980 Suzuki Wetbike
    The synthetic blend (I think it's a gold bottle). I have buddies that use the non-synthetic without issues, but the exta $4 a gallon was worth it to me. The clutch feel is PERFECT, and it's only about $15 a gallon for the blend...
  12. lankydoug Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM 300en
    I use Rotella triple protection 15w40 in the yellow bottle. I've used ATF+4 with good results but the Rotella seems to make shifting and clutch engagement smoother. This is true for both my GasGas EC200 and my Husky WR250.
  13. CelticDude Historically Fast!

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    x
    Mobil 1 works great! :thumbsup:
  14. justplayin Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    SNJ
    I've been using Rotella in my 07 TE450 from first oil change and have had no problems and it works great. Tried the regular and the syn. both felt the same. Actually, Rekluse recomends it too. I haven't tried it in my WR125 yet because I have some oil from when I purchased it. I will use that up first. Back when I was racing enduro's I ran ATF in all my race bikes and never had a problem. I am in the automotive field and I have always been "leary" of using oils meant for car "engines" like Mobil 1, Castrol, especially if they state the are formulated for "better fuel milage" ........because of the additives to make it "slipperyer". Could cause a problem with the clutch plates. BUT, folks are using it with no problems so go figure.
    I run Rotella in my TE450, lawnmower, push mower, 08 XT250, mini dune buggy, skid steer, 2 Toyota Camry's, leaf blower, log splitter........anything I have that takes oil. I change everything very regularly and using 1 oil (with very good success) is super easy.
  15. Blakelpd5 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Tigard, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09 WRWB165
    Other Motorcycles:
    08 CRF450R, 1980 Suzuki Wetbike
    Correction, it's a silver bottle.
  16. ray_ray Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    The Philippines
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08\013 WR250, 010 TC250, 012 TC250
    My 4t bike clutch drags so bad with the dino oil that you must use both legs in front of the pegs to hold the bike back when in 1st gear and stopped ... Go with a 75/25 SYN mixture and no dragging issues ... Seems a little weird we all get a different behavior ...

    Its a little interesting on the ATF... It just proves oil is oil ... I.E. -- There is no hole in the ground that spits ATF ... It comes from crude same as all other oils ... The refining process is such that it begins life as a ~20WT(?) oil ... Then a package is added and it becomes ATF ..

    A 2t transmission is very tough ... I've seen them run miles with only a cup of oil maybe and run all year on 1 oil change with no long term issues...

    Other than the thin shear strength (of a thin ATF oil) in question that obviously works because people use it successfully, the numbers below come from a MSDS sheet that shows the properties of a dino ATF oil ...Looks like heat is the killer here ... So as long as the tranny ran in its operating temps, OK, but if it heats up, its shearing strength gets weak ... Synthetic oils (ATF) handle heat better by default than dino oils and should provide better insurance in the case of heat build up ....

    34 cSt at 40 Celsius (104 degrees F.)
    7 cSt at 100 Celsius (212 degrees F.)