125-200cc 2011 CR150 first ride

Went to the local arena cross practice tonight. Tight track, supposed to seat bounce everything(i hate seat bounce), decent dirt but it was so dry tonight the dirt got hard slick pretty fast.
My old ride was an 09' CR144 btw.

FIrst, this motor runs way hard, like crazy crisp and perfect. I have no idea what jets are in it, but they are spot on... until the temp dropped below 40* in the second moto and had a death bog when i cracked it open on the face of a table. Pulled off and screwd in the air screw but it never came back to primo all night, i needed to raise pilot sizes.

Second, the indoor track puts the CR between gears, i used to run everything in second with my KXF but second on the CR is to low, revs out bad in the whoops and i dont like jumping high in the rpm. Third works fine but i am shifting to much, not sure if i should drop a couple teeth to give second some legs or go to a 52 so third can pull more of the track.

Third, i do not recomend riding two motos with the fork clickers turned all the way hard, like bottomed out, but it can be done Back em out 8 clicks and things get better, these KYB's are terrible to feel the click, i pretty much have to go by turns, cause i cannot feel the detent. I think the suspension is going to be alright though, indoor track is pretty forgiving.

Fourth, the stock Michelin Starcross rear likes to step out, i thought this was a supercross indoor type of tire. Anyway, not sure i like the tire but the sweet motor doesnt help it, i was straight flat tracking that bad boy down a long sweeping straight.. So awesome.

All in all its a cool bike, plenty fast if i would commit and run it hard, turns better than my 09 i think. I am going to try my 404 wheel with the 52 next week to see how it compares.

Sounds great, bet you had a blast!

Bill,

FIrst moto it was perfect, like turning heads it ran so tight. Guys coming up to me at my trailer asking what the hell i was riding. But it got cold fast, down around 35*, it was fine mid to top but right off the bottom you had to be careful. Bend is pretty high up, so down at sea level and cold it would be lean, i knew right away what was going on.

I pulled the carb tonight to see what i had, some crazy mikuni number needle on the second clip and a 50 pilot, with a 470 main. I think i could fix it with the needle or the pilot, not sure what i will try.

I think i screwed with the clickers to get some baselines and forgot where i left em Bill, and i think they where all the way soft last night actually, no biggee, all good. I should have been more positive in my first post, because when i left the track last night i couldnt have been happier, this bike in the right hands is a 250f killer for sure.

I just need to get the gearing sorted and get the shifter where i need it, and i will be dialed!!

BILL.. any ideas on why the shifter on the 11 would be much tighter than my 09? The 09 has a 1/4 to 3/8 of up/down movement at the tip, the new bike is tight... i kinda miss the slop!! This tight one is less forgiving, any way i can mess with that under the side cover??

If the needle is 6DEY15-74, you'll probably need to run it on the 4th clip down. Also, for colder weather, we're running a 490 main and a 32.5 pilot at 1 1/4 turns with a 4.0 slide.

32.5 pilot, quite a step from the 50 in there. I guess the two clip richer would offset that.. i am hesitant to change much of anything since the bike runs better than anything ive ever ridden.. with the exception temp swing that night.

if your 150 runs good, then ride the daylights out of it... don't get too wrapped up in changing stuff...( fwiw-I have a full RB mod carb and a 35 pilot , 17/62 rm needle and a 480 main...)

Demi, what slide are you running... 4 or 5?

Hey Krieg, Ron cut mine to a #5... there isn't a miss or bog anywhere with this carb... nice carbon pattern on the piston dome and plug reads perfect...

I can't believe that thing runs crisply off-idle with a 50 pilot. My bike came stock with a 45 pilot and it blubbered so bad it was unrideable. Most of the 150 owners I've seen here are running much leaner pilots than a 50. It just seems strange based on what I've seen on here and have experienced with my 150.

Mine came stock with a 35... a couple of guys have been below 30 with decent results. 50 seems huge to me also... idk, could be locale that embraces a huge pilot like that.

I run a 35 PJ and the air screw is around 2 turns in the warm (70-80 degree) weather. A little rich in the warm months but still adjustable enough to handle the 30 degree mornings.

Duh.... I typo'd... my stock pilot was a 35, NOT a 45. Sorry for my fat fingered typing and my total absence of proofreading.

surprised me too, my cr125 had a 45 stock?? I figured the 150 would be less.. but i do know that the needle can influence the pilot HUGELY, and my needle is on the second clip, but i have no idea what the needle is compared to others.

Demi,
I got the RB mods and have yet to try it, but I'm still in 125 form. These settings you posted are very very close to Ron's suggestions for me to try. 35 pilot, 470 main, 16/62 needle. My WR came with the 35 pilot 460 main installed. One thing, I have a 16/62 rm needle on order. What is the difference between that and the 17/62? I know that the numbers mean something but I do not know what. Ron also did my slide....I was wondering if that made it a #5 that so many folks talk about. That is cool because my WR came with an extra #4 slide so now I have both.
Thanks

17/62 needle is 1/2 clip difference, that's all. You are going from a 74 needle to 62. With a 62 needle and 4 slide, your are too rich and not enough air in mix. That is why you are adding more air to mix. Watch putting the slide in and taking it out. Those tips can bend almost to where you can't see it, and can sit offset in your main. Did you get Walts spring kit so you can time your powervalve with your new carb settings. You are going to a fast, quick taper from the slow stock one. As the WR ignition spools up little slower,we got to slow your powervalve down and time it correct plus build you some torque. That needle is going to give it a shot in the -ss.

Yep, Ron cut your #4 into a #5... the 17/62 is a slighly leaner needle. Walt uses the 17/62 as well. I use the 480 main because I pretty much am WFO in MX... I think you will be good to go with a 460/470 for WR useage. You will like the RB CARB.

I've done 16 bikes behind the scenes with RM needle/ 5 slide/spring kit. If you need help pm me and I can help you. I can give you my cell # and help you dial it in. Just make sure you have all the parts.

Thanks to everyone,
I've been tossing around the idea of the spring kit and eventually would have picked it up. I will be ordering it as soon as I'm done posting.
After doing some jetting, adjusting the PV arm, tire change ( the original tires only saw pushing into the garage), changed bar mounts to 7/8 so I can run my CR 80, or RM 80 mini bars, spun the mounts to the forward position and threw on some bark busters........ I can ride the WR the way it is and have been having a blast. To get it better will be icing on the cake I will definately be asking more questions and posting my results as we go along. I'm guessing that starting a "conversation" is the same as a PM here?
Did I mention that this is the best handling bike I have ever riden in "stock" suspension form? I absolutely LOVE how this WR handles in nasty single track and Jersey's finest fast open fire-cuts....

The thing about all these pilot numbers is if you are running an RB carb it will be way off from a unmodified carb pilot, assuming same slide, same needle. The extra needle that came with my bike looks a lot like the RM needle in my 09. Also, the husky manuals say the 11' WR125 has a 5.0 slide stock, and the CR shows 4.0. Be sure to check your WR before you buy and identicle slide.