I have about 30 hours on an 11 TE 310 and suddendly developed starting issues. It ran well during my 2 hours ride but after getting home, I went to start it and it won't fire. I could get it to fire by cracking the throttle slightly. When it finally started, the idle will be quite low (1800), so I turned the idle screw up thinking it had backed itself out. Oddly, this same thing happens each time and the screw is marked so I know it's not moving. Once warmed up (10 minutes or so) it will refire immeadiatly. Then, at my last event, after turing up the idle screw to get it warmed up I let it sit several minutes at idle and the rpms suddenly rose to around 3400 so I backed out the idle screw to get 2200. Then, during the second hour of my harescramble, I could feel the rpms not coming back down. After finishing the race, I noted that the rpms at idle were in the 3950-4300 range. Anybody have any ideas. I've already replaced the water temp sensor with the updated part and it's been plugged into iBeat after the problem first started but it getting progressively worse. The bike is powered up. The only "mods" are removing the backfire screen and using a JDJetting Power Surge 6X to adjust low-mid transition and acc. pump speed. I hope I can get this sorted soon because after three CRFs with only one valving issue, I'm getting a bit impatient with this bike and it's "tempermental" nature (this is the fourth issue I've had with the bike after only 30 B class rider hours) and longing for that good old CRF "beat me, then beat me some more cause I like it" reliability I've known to six years. EDIT: forgot to mention that I recalled a mysterious oil spot above the left side (flywheel) cover. Looking it the schematic, it would appear that there is some sort of sensor inside having to do with the idle. Well, on a whim, I loosen the left side cover bolts and oil started pouring out. NOT GOOD !!
Have you reset the TPS while in iBeat? May or may not make any difference, but something to help eliminate as an issue. Have you checked and gapped your sparkplug? Mine was way too narrow (.022) from the dealer. I would have suggested your CTS but you've replaced it already. Doesn't mean it can't be bad again, though. Air filter cleaned and not over-oiled? Valves in spec? Do you use the Red fast idle lever during starting? It does help but mostly just to keep a cold bike running in the 1st minute or so after starting. Is the battery good and strong? Lastly, does it start with the kicker any easier than the button?
