Spent many hours tuning, road testing (in dirt) and retuning again with my new iBeat setup. (thanks Semco) glad to say my 310 is working great from off idle to readline. I now can crawl in first gear, snap the throttle and pull the front wheel with no soggy or bog feeling. Stock ecu, injector and muffler without sparky or reducer. Really feel the throttle hard stop was the key. End results, Throttle stop in one full turn from fully closed (that sticking feeling position) WOT on iBeat =102.0 deg (0.0 closed throttle) 972mv tps position (less then my orginal position) co#1 at 101.5 #2 at 101.0 an #3 at 101.0 air screw best positon at 2 5/8 truns out with idle speed at 2200 to 2400 on tac (in gear and idling in first with clutch engaged, 9 kph and 1900 rpms, quick pull on throttle and you better be ready to hangon! crawls uphill at slow speeds when needed so much better. 2011 Te310 at 76h (2456kms) LBM.
Hello LBM! I also have a TE310 2011 which used to work perfectly, then it started to bogg a lot and when warm it turns off. I just receiived my iBeat cable and managed to successfully connect it to my bike and get all the readings. When I opened the whole throtle, i noticed that the % got to about 104%, I've seen in other discussions that the ideal % is 100.2%, could I get to this by adjusting the TPS to the Adjustment Value? Could this help my iddle and stall when warm problems? Also, the CO adjustments are each of them at 100%, which would be the ideal configuration values? Thank You!
My cure for all the street initiated tuning in the 2011 OEM TE310 ECU was to buy the 2012 TXC310 ECU and 12 port injector (as the race kit back then) and I added a TC250 full Ti muffler but left the enduro reducer plug in the exhaust. The bike ran cooler smoother with no lean surges or decel popping. It was the best engine upgrade possible and was obvious as soon as I first started it and made 1 loop around the block. So if you can mimic that state of tune you will be super stoked. I raced the crap out of that bike and got a bunch of plaques and plastic trophies with it.
I think you need to adjust the throttle stop to get that number. Someone may explain how to do this but since I have not done it I’m going to wait and see who replies. My understanding is that TPS and the WOT position numbers are like the old TDC Top Dead Center setting, a reference for everything to relate to. Then the ECU adds advance and fuel to suit the throttle position.
Hey Luis. best results with my 310 are co one at 101.5 two at 102.5 and three 103.0 throttle at 0 to 102 with tps at 957mv. idle speed at 2250 or so. I dont think the x-lite 310 likes 100.2% (think that works well for the older 310/250 engine) try your throttle stop at one full turn in from shut, you will feel this with the throttle. small allen key and tiny wrench needed (forget size) then reset tps. 102 deg to 102.5 works well. your bike sounds like something else is going on. Have you removed the tank and checked for chafed wires, my tank would rub through the insulation on the coil feed wires and run like a wet engine and stall, pop and misfire but would make it home. carefull with the gas line at the tank, fuel elbow can crack. worth having a look. make sure the spark plug cap through the valve cover is clean and dry, only put dielectric lube on the top of the plug, no other place on the rubber. hope this helps. *the 11 310 can be made to run very good with the stock ecu and 4 point injector, surprisingly good.
