250-500cc 2011 WR300 left engine case (behind clutch cover) removal

Oil's milky: I'm sure its the water pump seal. So, to get to it, i tried removing the engine case (not the clutch cover, but the case right behind it). Got it pulled off maybe 1/2", and I cant get it out any more, because the right-most bolt housing is hitting the frame, and the shift shaft is preventing me from wiggling it free. Right now, the case is just dangling in the air, and it appears i have one of two options:

1. Take the opposite side of the engine apart to remove the shift shaft.

2. Remove the engine bolts (which bolt it to the frame) in order to move it away from the frame a little bit, to let the case bypass the frame.

The above two options (to me) seem absolutely ridiculous, just to get the side cover off.
Anyone with experience on this issue?

If I remember correctly,remove clutch pack and basket then you should be able to remove shift shaft.be careful when pulling cover as it kind of binds on power valve spring assembly and pay attention to how the PV rod goes into the grooved thing on top of spring

Hmm, I was able to remove mine without much trouble. I did grab the shifter shaft with my hand and wiggle it as I was pulling the cover off. It does like to bind on the shaft when removing it. Maybe you might have to loosen the engine mounts.

Like KX said. You basically need to follow these steps:
1. Remove outer clutch cover. (Go ahead and remove shift lever)
2. Remove pressure plate/clutch pack.
3. Put bike in 5th gear, if you have buddy, have them hold the rear wheel, or stick a wooden hammer handle to bind the back wheel as you remove the clutch nut.
4. Remove inner and outer clutch basket, don't loose spacer or bearings.
5. Remove powervalve cover
6. pop powervalve dohickey off the thingamabob
7. Remove inner clutch cover.


But before you do that stuff, open the water pump cover. Use a bit of heat (I used a propane torch) and get the impeller where it right hand threads onto the shaft. That will nuetralize the loctite and let you take it off without breaking any fins.

Then finger tighten it back on and disassemble to get the clutch cover separate.


If you are replacing the bearing and don't have the right tools. Make them. I used 5/16" all thread. Some nuts to fit. Some washers that fit the top of the bearing but don't interfere with the case that you are pressing it in and out of (I used M6 washers that fit awesome). The use a block of wood (I had a sweet piece of HDPE I used) drill a hole through it, and slip the all thread through it. Slap a fender washer on it and a nut, then use that deal to pull out the bearing and press in the new one.

Just take your time, and don't let your power valve actuator assembly fall off the side of the engine and roll around your garage. Happen to me a couple weeks ago and I didn't realize it, 7 hours of digging through the garage and I can't find it, so I had to buy a bottom end off ebay to get a replacement...

Great, thanks guys. I wasn't thinking - I'm used to the shift shaft going through the engine (this is my first husky) - next time ill use my brain thinkins, and actually look at the dirt bike and realize the shifters on the same side as the clutch.... Weird lol. So I broke my do-hickey plastic arm thingy on the powervalve, but I'm gong to epoxy it (its easy enuff to get to if it doesn't work).

As for getting the gasket out of the impeller housing... I've been trying to grab pieces of it with needle nose, but no luck... At least not yet...msmith, my bearing is fine, but can I use your method to push the gasket/o-ring out by pushing on the bearing? It looks like if I force the bearing through, it should push the gasket with it.... But I'm not sure... I don't want to break the whole case if the gasket is in a groove or somethin... Also, I can only press on the inner ring of the bearing, don't want to break that either..

It really didn't take any force to press the bearing out, but yes, I used the bearing to push the seal out as well. My bearing was definitely shot though before I removed it.

Have you tried using a seal puller? It's got a couple different radiused hooks and makes seal removal pretty easy. That might be a good way to go if you're worried about the bearing. It's a good tool to have around and at under $10 it's a no brainer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

No, I didn't even know that tool existed. But I do now, thanks! Ill order it with my new gaskets.
Cheers!

New seal arrived... but i didnt take note which way it was facing when i removed the old one (because i pretty much shredded it to shit when i was trying to remove it).... i'm pretty sure it goes in so the more "sunken" looking side (the side without the rounded edge of the metal ring) faces the coolant / impeller.... is this correct?

I don't have a wr 300 but the seal should be installed so that the side that has the spring visible behind the lip of the seal is installed towards the impeller and the coolant. I think you are correct

on mine, there's a spring on both sides.... i'm just going with what i though.... anyway, NEW issue.... i cant f***'ing put the bearing in! i heated the living crap out of the case for a long time, and tried banging the seal in, and now the outter metal edge of the seal is getting pretty banged up after several attempts.... i dont know what to do.. im afraid if i bang the thing any more i'm going to destroy it, or the case, and i tried heating the case so much i'm afraid it might crack with any more heat.... any tips or tricks with this damn seal?

Block of wood, piece of all thread, nuts, washers...pull the bearing into place nice and easy.

Just checked my seal and you are correct, Edd: Rounded edge is on the oil side, thin metal rim on coolant side.

I use a socket as a seal driver and tap it in evenly. Best to get it started in straight and keep it going in straight. Make sure the socket fits the seal so you don't flare or bend the seal edge.

I got my seal out without removing the left side cover by collapsing one side of the seal with a sharp narrow chisel and a little hammer. Then it came right out with a seal puller. The spacer came out first with a magnet. Pretty meatball mechanics but effective if you are patient and precise. And lucky.

Ok finally got it, but only after a ton of consulting with fellow riders / self-medicating bike mechanics: I turned the seal around (even after being 99% sure it was the wrong way - and thanks, LS, for checking yous). After carefully examining the seal, i cant see how it would matter which way it goes in - it should perform either way... correct me if i'm wrong - because there are two seals (compressed with springs), which are symmetrical: i guess only time will tell. Anyway, after looking at the seal very closely, i realized that although there is a chamfer on both sides, the chamfer angle on the sharp side, is cut at a degree that would make it easier to be tapped in. So, i installed it with the rounded edge facing towards the water side... it was my only real choice anyhow, as it wouldnt go in the other way, and i would have destroyed it... i'll taker er for a few rips and change the oil a few times and see if it works!

Well I wondering which is correct. I'm having water in oil issues and after 2 seals (1 factory, 1 from a bearing and seal shop) it is still leaking. I was putting the seals in with the thin edge towards the water/pressure side ( like a normal seal would go). It seems Edd & Long Stroke , you guys put the seal in two different ways. Are you having any problems?

Still doing well with mine. My seal was bad because the spacer it rides on was bad. It was corroded and I replaced it with a stainless steel one made by another cafehusky member.

My spacer was corroded also. But the only way it can corrode is for water to get on it and corrode. And I put a new spacer in as well.