250-500cc 2012 Husqvarna WR300 - Looking for set-ups/mods

I just picked up a low mile 2012 Husky WR300. Wondering what mods/set-ups other cafe husky
members have done to theirs.
The bike I just purchased has the stage 1 jetting? What are good jetting specs for New Jersey (sea level)?
Any problems with these bikes? I've read about the jetting and thermostat issues.
Suggestions for skid plate, armor, etc.
Feel free to post your WR300 set-ups/mods/pics, etc.
Thanks

I have a 2011 WR250. The one thing that has bothered me with the bike is the clutch. Switched to the better Terminator cable (lots on here about it) and it still has to be adjusted with no play. Seems like I go thru wheel and swingarm bearings alot so keep an eye on them. If you take the triple clamps of to check the steering stem bearings you may notice a lot of crud on them and the reason is there is a slot cut in the shaft. about half way up. It is a hollow tube so water and mud get up there eventually. I filled it in with silicone.

Look up what people are doing to the reed cage. They add a extra gasket on the one side. Seemed to make my jetting more consistent after I did it.

I dont do much as far as performance mods, I do as much as I can to keep the bike in good shape stock wise.

I forgot, buy the aluminum cones for the bar risers. The rubber stock ones suck and every time you fall over the bars will be crooked. get them from Halls.

I went to Rekluse because the kick starter drives my bad knee crazy and I only had to start it once a race....

steering stem with silicone
regrease bearings a lot
check spokes often
aluminum cones

the rest is good.... they are running bikes for sure

2014 WR300.

7602 Radiator guards/braces, case saver, axle blocks, front disk guard, ignition, and clutch cover.
Swapped the Mikuni TMXX for 38mm Keihin PWK. 175 main, 45 pilot.
Used a pre-2009 WR250 reed boot to make the carb fit without the airbox boot hitting the shock.
Ditched the stock brake pedal and shift lever for stouter units and an easier to reach/use rear brake pedal.
Brake snaked both for added protection.
Motosportz rear brake guard.
13/50 gearing.
FMF Gnarly with FMF Q-Stealth.
P3 carbon pipe guard.
Ditched the goofy stock chain guard.
Wider pegs with replaceable teeth.
Ditched the stock clutch cable for a Magura hydraulic clutch (love this mod!!!).
Ditched the stock DOT knobbies for Michelin S12XC's.

Love the carb, gearing, and pipe combo for serious single track work.

Just bought a complete Pro Circuit Works pipe/silencer combo to try as well.

Heath

Do you have a complete parts list for the Magura hydro swap? Is it a easy swap or is there modifications?

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pwk-swap-and-hydraulic-clutch-issues.79884/

This post highlights my Magura juice clutch journey. The off the shelf kit for the WR300 didn't work for my bike. I talked to Peter at Magura USA. He was very helpful. I have pictures of the kit that worked for me and my WR posted in that thread linked above. It was a custom deal with Magura, so no part number to look up I'm afraid.

Peter told me for some WR's, the kit works well, some it doesn't. I'd call Magura USA and ask to speak to Peter. He'll likely remember the parts used for my kit. I basically took a bunch of measurement off the bike and gave them to him. He send me another kit that worked great.

Heath

I have to agree the worst thing on these Italian huskys is that clutch. Seems to like little or no freeplay. Changes while riding and I don't abuse clutches. I know my ktm spoiled me but these clutches blow.

That's why I love the Magura. Light pull (lighter than stock for sure), very solid engagement/disengagement point at the lever, and that point never changes. Doesn't matter if the clutch is cold at first start up or getting abused on a nasty tight single track.... the clutch stays and feels the exact same every time, everyday , all day.

LOVE IT.

Heath

I have a husky aluminum skid plate on my WR, but it's constantly bending out of shape and moving around. So I'm most likely replacing it with a Hyde.
I've done the clutch actuator arm mod and adjusted the push rod per factory specs. Makes a very noticeable difference in the clutch pull.
I also got lowered foot pegs (as apposed to bar risers). They help with ergos if you are tall.
Last but not least, get a LECTRON carb.

I just got a Hyde skid plate for mine, very nice. Haven't tested it yet though. Order direct from Hyde. I ordered from BRP and was a huge PITA, took 2 months to actually get the shipment.
Mine came with @ 10 hours and a Rekluse already installed. A first for me, was skeptical, now I love it. And added Moose EZ3 clutch lever/perch and Terminator cable.
I also went with the Lectron and couldn't be happier and G2 throttle is the icing on the cake. That combo with the Rekluse makes it smooth and controllable off the bottom into the mid and still scary fast on top.
The other major mod is to get the suspension right for your weight and riding. The right springs and sag for me made a huge difference in ridability and traction. While you're in there flush the forks out and add your fav oil. I used Maxima 5wt @ 140mm, .40 fork springs from RaceTech and a 5.0 Husky spring on the shock. Torque the triple clamps to 10-12 ft-lbs lower and 14-16 upper to avoid binding.
Grease everything, especially the linkage, swingarm bolt and lower shock mount. Get used to it and do it regularly or else....
Search this forum for wr300 and all your questions will be answered

I have a Hyde on my TE511. It's amazing how tough the stuff is.

I bought a Hyde for my 09 WR250. Unless I'm a total idiot (maybe partial) I couldn't get it to fit the bike well. I had to drill and file the area around the pipe hanger to get a pretty tight fit. I also had to buy longer screws to catch the hidden brackets.

Yea the Hydes are notorious for fitment issues. I had to use a heat gun to soften it up to get it to fit right on my TE. But once I heated it and let it cool (in place on the bike so it reshapes itself), it fit like a glove. And the level of protection is unparalleled.

2014 Wr300 here
7602 rad guards
Alum skid plate, forget what brand
Carbon pipe guard
MP terminator cable helps a lot! Along with adjusting the clutch internally and using a MSR Pro Raptor lever set to lightest pull. One finger clutch all day! Needs slight free play adj after warming up but then fine
Wasn't happy with fork action and after speaking with my local suspension guru I decided to buy some lightly used closed cartridge forks off a Husky motocross bike. Revalved them myself along with the shock and it's really good now
Fastway pegs in low position. (I'm 6'2")
Lectron 36mm carb, awesome mod!
Silicon hoses, ditched the thermostat
Added reed block gasket
Other than that, pretty stock. These bikes are rock solid, I have over 110 hrs on original chain and sprox and I ride done pretty nasty trails! No issues with this bike over the last 1 1/2 years. Still not the easiest bike to start if I'm tired but the Lectron helped and it's a non issue if I have a tree to lean on. Lol
Love this bike, only things I would like more are E-start and/or 15lbs lighter.

+1 on 7602 Rad guards and left/right case covers. Forgot to mention that. The 2009s didn't come with a sight glass, so I put the 7602 case covers on. And the rad guards a a must for any bike.

I got one of these
http://www.24mx.co.uk/venhill-featherlight-clutch-cable-red/husqvarna-wr300-2009
and one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...255024?hash=item1c568e5df0:g:CGAAAOSwLVZVsLOJ

Very happy with the improvement

I have a Venhill "universal" kit sitting in my garage. I got the universal because I wasn't aware of the the WR specific one. I've never installed it because I don't know how to solder the end bung. Didn't realize soldering was going to be involved. I wonder if I can zap it with my cheap welder.

On the swingarm mud flap; just remove it, razor the ribs that are cutting the SW and reinstall

Forgot about this. I have two ridges rubbed into my swing arm because of this.

I've ground ribs down but still put some old inner tube with silicone where the flap rubs. Zip ties work too!