2012 TE511 License Plate Solution

So I was wondering why so many people were cutting off the license plate holder ... until mine snapped off. Seems like it's a must on all the newer models ... just giving everyone another option. I think it looks pretty rad, until it rips off again




Used the metal license plate holder - cut it in half - mounted those with the tail plastic bolts (took some bending) - the slots in the metal license plate holder worked perfect for getting it level (still need to adjust a little). Final step - punch plate in

That little bit of rear fender that is left is just enough to zip tie the plate to. Probably have a
better chance of not losing your plate up there.

Its actually mounted to the frame of the bike ... so if it falls off ... "Houston, we have a problem"

Thanks for the look-out though Jer

Clean look ... what are you doing for turn signals? It doesnt look like you have any on?

I removed the original tail section then cut an 1 1/2 inch wide "T" out of a scrap piece of steel, bent and drilled the top tabs to accept the signal lights and bolt up to the tail light. Bent the tail of the "T" down a little so the plate is readable from behind but still clears the wheel when compressed. Used a set of 2 5/8 inch signal lights as the stocker were a little close to the exhaust and I wanted to keep them in tact. Seems to be holding up well so far and i've had a few good offs in some rocky terrain. Pic is with the stock lights.

looks good I may have to copy you

I've done the exact same thing. No rear turn signals at all, most of the "hardcore" dual sport guys around here (that is, those who use their plates as a means to get to the trails) don't run rear turn signals and I haven't heard of any of them having an issue. Hell, half of em don't have any turn signals at all.

8 fasteners so far, I just keep adding them as needed. I took all the turn signals off the day I got the bike, no need trashing perfectly good parts, and they are not required for TX safety inspection. Note the pop rivet repair on the cracked black fender extension. I riveted it to the underlying white fender.

Thermometer is a nice touch.

I thought so too

Clean and Simple, In CA you need Turn Signals, This is what I did. The T/S are from Cycle Gear, $18, (they have 2 type there, these are the Aluminum based units) they come with a Sticky back, but i took the bulb out, drilled a hole in the back plate and used a small machine screw/washer/loctite/nut.

Clean and semi-simple to install. Decided to copy cat tshea by adding these turn signals $29 from cycle gear. Mine are also the aluminum based model except they are led and not bulbs. I too drilled a whole through the pcboard and used loctite to secure them in place. The entire rear fender had to be removed. It is best to mark your wires left and right before cutting. Also color coding is blue and brown, blue being negative and brown is positive.

I thought about doing my signal lights that way, but ended up building some aluminum brackets & putting some short stalks on there.
The licence plate is zip-tied & siliconed to a piece of tough kydex plastic which is zip-tied & siliconed to the piece remaining below the tail-light after all the low hanging fruit is plucked off.
The kydex plastic backing is the key to preventing the plate from cracking and deforming from rocks & gravel.
Same sheet of kydex is now on it's 3rd bike.

Tinker - Did you need to install an LED flasher module for the new rear turn signals? Or did they work with the stock blinker wiring?

Thanks
Mike

Just wired/solder/heat-shrink'd them in. The blinkers from CycleGear have internal resistors.

Heres what I did, and these blinkers need the flasher module. mine flash faster then normal. But they look good and work well.

I bought a set of Speed Metal arrow led turn signals like TE511NATOR's for the front. Very nice

A day later after you asked me that question, my blinkers went out. Haha figures. So I replaced the flasher unit with an electronic one. I could have ordered an expensive two wire flasher, but I wanted to find one locally at an auto parts store and make it work. This way if I ever need a new one in a pinch, I will be able to find one easily. They now work great, LED's front and rear and flash at normal speed.

Also, the color coding for the rear signal wiring is blue and brown, blue being negative and brown is positive. But! The front is opposite, brown is negative and colored wire is positive.




The one I used is a universal EP-35 found at Autozone for $12.99.



Zip tied to the original location.



Large wire on the far right is an added ground wire that I ran back to the negative post on my battery.

Did you have to run a relyfor the speedmetal blinkers?