2013 TE 310 - Locked kick starter

Hey folks. Have an issue I am hoping you can help me with. While bringing a 2013 TE 310 back to life after a long time sitting, I have an issue with the kickstarter occasionally getting locked up. I have read posts that reference a similar issue - but none that address it directly. The bike is basically stock, with the addition of a Recluse clutch (core 3).

The bike is not starting easily when cold. So I need to kick/use starter button quite a bit. I have resorted to using a little starter fluid for the first start until I can get it tuned correctly - which works well, and then is no longer needed after it turns over for the first time.

While kicking it, I have found that the kicker randomly, after returning to the top position, feels locked. If I try the starter button when it’s like this - it just clicks, as if it has too much resistance to spin the starter motor/starter gears etc.

When this happens, I found that if I roll the bike forward or back a bit, the kicker/starter button is again free.

I checked the valve clearances, thinking that it might be caused by the tolerance on the left exhaust (ADC) valve. All valves are in spec - with the left exhaust being right in the middle of the manual spec (.2) and the suggested spec (.18). So I assume while not as tight as some suggest, it shouldn’t be causing my issue? Also, the ADC unit looks to be in place - but I honestly have no idea how this system works, so not sure whether this could be an issue.

I removed the right side cover and checked the clutch and all the kicker gears/springs. They all seem fine. I then removed the left cover to check the flywheel, sprag clutch, worm gear etc.

The worm and ring gear have slight wear at their contact points, but nothing dramatic. They seem to move through their travel fine. The woodruff key is in perfect condition and not sheared. The flywheel looks to be fine.

The sprag clutch spring is still intact, but I am wondering whether it's going bad. I am attaching pics for reference. You can see it has taken on an odd shape - but this might be normal from resting in the sprag grooves? Also, one spot looks as if it’s becoming weak. Not sure if this would cause the lock-up I’m experiencing, since it still has spring to it - but should this be replaced???

Once I know whether this sprag clutch/spring should be replaced, I will button it back up. What should I be checking next? Any help or guidance is much appreciated.

Scott

Forgot to mention: when I dropped the oil and filters I had a real close look. There was some very very fine aluminum dust in the oil. But not excessive, and no chunks of any kind.

It is the valve clearance. The clearance on that offending valve has to be at the tight end of spec. Not as you might think. Middle of spec is just not going to activate the decompressor. Get it to the tight end. Been the main issue with this engine. I too had the kicker lock up as you describe. Don't use a heavy finger on the starter button either. If it's not going past tdc it will damage starter.

Thanks so much for the response. Didn’t get notified. I ended up removing the left side cover and checking out the gears, woodruff key, sprag etc. the only thing that seemed weird I noticed was when reinstalling the sprag clutch, the tabs of circlip (on outside face of sprag) were protruding a bit. They had clearly worn a very slight line in the rotor (could barely feel it with a fingernail). The sprag itself, and the retaining spring all looked good. I filed the tabs a hair to make the sprag spin free in the rotor, put it all back together.

First attempts at starting were slow (like usual), but turned over fine with no starter/kick lock. Finally fired with the help of a little starter fluid.

So I am hoping that the slight drag of the sprag being removed can only help?

I’ll readdress the valves if the .18 is the magic number. Just want to confirm that is indeed the number I’m looking for. I’ve read so many posts about it - and recall someone suggesting as tight as .14. Just need to confirm before I pull her apart again.

Really appreciate the help!

I got a service record here and appears I had dealer checked valves in '13 for exactly this issue and 4 months later still the same kickstart locked up, etc... Warranty/recall was done for "starter great kit" a month after that service and thought maybe that would sort it but no. Tinken/Michael at ZipTy suggested check the valves again, so asked my dealer to check again as they never fixed the issue. Been good ever since. As close as you can get to .2 I think. You may be OK if she spins up.

I’m now at around .19. The manual (and your dealer sheet) states .2. And the forums seem to “agree” on .18. Would you suggest I stick with where I am now? Or is it worth getting it even tighter to .18. Everyone suggested a bit tighter on that one exhaust valve - just not sure if the .01 is enough to make the difference at this point. Currently I’m tighter than you were at the dealer. It is spinning up. I’ll certainly hop back in there if it continues to lock up.

I’m now wondering if the sticky circlip on the sprag clutch was actually the issue.

I plan on kicking it about 1000 times tomorrow to see if it still does it

I really appreciate your help. Seems quiet around here lately.

I would think you should be good. Is quiet indeed. So many forums and facebook groups but this is the place that helped me in a big way when I bought my husky.

Again, really appreciate the help.

I’ve gotten a ton of info here over the years - seems like many have moved on. These bikes are starting to get older - and parts have become frustrating to source. But I’m committed to getting her to run as well as possible.

Thanks!

UPDATE: After having no issues yesterday on several attempts to start the bike - I tried it again this morning. It locked up after a few kicks. Jiggled the kicker a bit without moving bike - and it freed up and started (with a little starter fluid help). Tried a few more times. Started easily (no fluid) and then locked again. This time I needed to roll the bike forward/back a bit, and then she fired right up. Ugh!

Looks like I’m taking the head off again to tighten up that one exhaust valve….

Oh well. post up what you finally end up with. I get maybe one out of ten times sticking at TDC but next press of the starter kicks right over.

You still get the sticking even after they changed your valve clearance? Part of me was thinking that it might just be par for the course with this much compression, regardless of whether I tighten up that exhaust valve even more than it already is. Or maybe I’m just trying to avoid tearing the top end apart again

On occasion yes. But a second stab at the starter and spins right up. Have never had to resort to kicking or rocking back and forth in gear after sorting years ago. Assume the piston on occasion just parks itself right near TDC. I always just poke the starter and not press for long. I'd ride and see if it's really an issue in use. As long as you don't labor the starter, I would think you're OK. A li battery like an EarthX helps too in quickly spinning it up, and always keeping the battery well charged so the starter isn't bogging down.

I was leaning toward exactly as you suggest, riding it and seeing if it becomes an issue. The fact that it starts fine once I get the kicker unstuck leads me to believe I may just be dealing with the TDC/compression issue.

I have a couple other things I’d like to address regarding the initial hard start. Going to clean the FI and test the fuel pump pressure (I replaced the fuel pump after a long sit destroyed the stock pump). Then off to the trails to see how she goes.

Really appreciate your help.