2013 TE310 noob

Hello All.

Brand new 2013 TE310 stalling issues and engine popping noises.

Have only changed to the TXC filter and removed the external gas reservoir.
Had recently run 93 octane with booster additive. Drained it and put in 100.
Any help appreciated

I have a 2012. It got a lot better after 10 or so hours of riding. Have you tried increasing the idle? On my bike adding a G2 throttle tamer and going with a rear 50 tooth sprocket also helped a lot. Different year though and so maybe this is irrelevant to your situation.

good luck

Welcome. We need more info to help you. What sprockets are you running? Has the lambda (O2 sensor) been removed and the jumper installed? Is the cat converter removed yet? After 10-20 hours the engine does loosen up and run better too. Like mentioned above, raising the idle to around 2100 helps. The 93 should be fine, no need for 100 octane in there. It calls for 99 RON which is 93 octane or so.

The stalling issue is probably the idle being too low. I know for some reason, when I got my TE250, it was idling at around 1450 which caused a lot of stalling. They should be idling around 1950-2100. Popping sounds like fuel mixture issue.. if you opened up the airbox (TXC Air filter) then you probably will need to adjust fuel mixture / power up as others said - take out the cat converter and plug O2 sensor with jumper.

mine still pops like a beast whenever I coast down a hill. This seems common and nothing to be concerned about, based on other posts. Probably does not make me popular with the neighbors however :laugh:

they need the race map program installed(only dealers can do this) for them to run decent,otherwise they are a pile!.dan

Hey you 2012 folks... The 2013 is a different bike. Help is good but the '13 is diffierent as it's a Kehin FI and ECU can be flashed and re-flashed as well, no need to swap an injector.

First off you don't need any race gas or additives or race maps (unless you chose to do so right away) or ecu's or jumpers.

I was in your shoes and ran my bike stock till the end of my warranty. When brand new it would not run and stalled at every light, flamed out on decelleration, etc... Dealer reflashed the bike to a current stock map, not what came from the factory and replaced the filter frame and checked the computer to make sure was in spec. That's it. Once warranty was up I made the other changes.

Realize that the stock map will run fine and what you'll miss is the upper rpm range power. The updated stock map will improve the running and end the stalling and you can "trust" the bike. Later the Open Race Map will provide much better overall tune and more power as revs increase plus better overall fueling. But... I chose not to risk my warranty and was unsure how things may be handled if I had a claim so that's what I did.

The bike needs a dealer. That's #1. You cannot make the bike better any other way. The dealer needs to reflash the stock map while still under warranty if you'de like to still have it. Changing the air filter frame and re-flash of the map and adjust of idle should do it, period!

Next step is flash to open map. Leave O2 sensor installed, remove cat, open up the velocity stack, re-flash to open race map and go. Also with the above... Either cap or plug your manifold where the hose may have come off.

Hey there all. First of all thanks for all the fine responses and knowhow. To answer some questions I have 13.5 hours on the bike. Still running stock geering 13/40. Still have the O2 sensor and cat converter.

Johnrg you are right on in that I cannot at this point "trust" the bike to run anywhere.

So into the shop she goes!! Thanks again.

Scott, Regarding gearing, most do change depending on where they are riding and will solve a lot of the low speed "hunting" and some jerkiness. No heavy flywheel to smooth things. I ride a big mix of stuff but not any tight steep singletrack so am using a 45 rear. Allows me to be on the road at 45-60 mph speeds without over revving the motor for short time but it pretty squarely intended for fire roads and more open trails. The tighter, slower, steeper, you'll want lower gearing but it does depend. Close ratio so set it for your conditions probably between 45 and 50.

Thanks for the guidance Johnrg. My intention was to change to something 48-52. A lot of tight trails around here for the ones I know of. Wish I had some fire roads around just to cruise on. Will keep you posted.

Mine runs well....everything is stock except for 47t rear sprocket, map 2 flashed and cat removed. Works well all around. Kinda wish I bought a 449 though for more power.

Did you flash map 2 or map 3? There is 3 maps available for the te310r, stock, open and leo vince. Also you must modify your air horn by removing the air restriction. We cut the air horns on a lathe to match the power band wanted. Stock exhaust is restrictive so you can get a powerbomb header from FMF and a silencer to match which will definitely improve your power. We race mod the 310r engine and are able to get pretty close to 449 power.

Item ID: 045526


http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/BikeAsList/2013_HUSQVARNA_TXC310
Note: above exhaust is for a TXC because it is illegal to install on a TE.

Its got map 2.....Im pretty sure the air horn was opened up too. I bought it from motoxotica and they said it was basically setup as a txc.
I wonder if chp/leo actually check the exhaust?

A txc comes with map 2 and not map 3. I would give Dan a call and ask.

But for map three you need a more open exhaust...right. Sorry about the somewhat thread hijack.

Mine took 3 things to make it ride able and a couple more to make it fun.

1. Re-map, as mentioned before, cat removed and TXC filter cage
2. Starter worm gear repair, warranty item
3. Fly wheel key replacement warranty item
All done by dealer

Single track fun stuff
1. G2 throttle with #4 cam.
2. Lower gearing. I went with 12- 45. I already had the 45. 12 that fits from here http://www.motosportzhusqvarna.com/Husqvarna X-Lite TE, TC, TXC, 250, 310.htm
3. Rekluse clutch

Reliability stuff
1. Metal gas tank elbow http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-gas-tank-elbow/
2. Replace standard bolts in bottom of gas tank by radiator with round head allens. There is a thread around here somewhere on it.

Have fun with it. I am with mine.

late addition, I forgot. Seat Concepts -1" seat, much more comfortable.

Not necessary, runs great with stock exhaust and will always be there if a more open exhaust is added later.

We also carry rounded tank spacers which allow you to space the fuel tank higher to keep from rubbing holes in the under crossing lines. It's an easy fix and it also helps to align body panels.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-tank-spacers/

The radiator hose and fuel petcock have no clearance for the most part. See my prior post...

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/radiator-hose-a-tight-fit.31649/#post-295375

and yes get the metal tank elbow and rid of the black fender (see if you have some brackets in a parts bag for relocating rear signals). It will self destruct in no time. I procrastinated for awhile but made sense to do it. Zip Ty makes a new bracket, while I used my old number plate as it is slightly thicker than the fender it bolts to.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/tail-bracket-removal-te-310.31949/#post-296892

Yeah, the tank spacers work great! Only caveat I'd add is that I found I needed to use a stack of small washers on top of the post to the height of the tank. Without them, my tank bolt vibrated out, since it was only tightened down onto the plastic of the tank. Loctite may solve this, as well, but after losing one tank bolt, I didn't want to take the chance. I actually used washers and loctite.

The tank elbow is also really good, and simple to install.