2013 Te310r Efi Issue. No Start

Hello All,

I brought a running and driving 2013 TE310R last year and then ran into a no start issue a few months afterwards. I have since been working on the bike for a full year and have only narrowed down the issue to a EFI problem.

June 2021:
Bike would start every time on issues.

July 2021:
Bike was idling in the garage, then sputter, backfire, stalled. I restarted the bike it idled for a few moments then stalled. Was not able to restart after that.

August 2021:
Swap spark plug, ignition coil, fuel, clutch switch, front brake switch, and replaced battery. Could start but only after 10 or so minutes of constant kicking; but if I shut down the bike, no restart.

Winter 2021-2022:
Replace piston rings, checked and adjusted valve gap, inspection on engine. Could start but only after 10 or so minutes of constant kicking; but if I shut down the bike, no restart.

Spring 2022:
Was able to confirm compression, air, and the fuel pump is delivery fuel to the injector. However the fuel injector was not spraying fuel. Cleaned injector (was able to open it with battery), no spray. Tested voltage to the injector, voltage was being delivered but injector would not open. I replaced the injector. Still no fuel spray. No start.

Summer 2022:
-Got a bike mechanical with some experience with Italian husky's to help. He re-inspected my top end rebuild and fuel pump: All was good, engine cylinder in excellent condition. No Start.

-With the bike re-assembly, we were able to start and idle after 5mins of constant kicking. The bike idle strong for 10mins no issues. After 10mins, we twist the throttle and the bike immediately stalled.

So we able to confirm that eventually fuel could spray through the injector; although, starting it was inconstant and using the throttle would cause the bike to stall.

Where we sit now:
Testing voltage from up steam of the TPS (down steam of the ECU), we notice the both coloured wires are delivering a signal; one at 5.?? V, and the other at 4.90V: is this correct?





The TPS when hooked up to a 5V power source will allow of varying volts at different throttle positions.

The TPS is also cycling smoothly through a range of resistance 0.14 (@20k oms) to 5.?? (@20k oms).

Testing continuity at the ECU's ports for the injector wiring we find everything is good.

Right now our main suspect is still the TPS, but it feels like a shot in the dark. It is 2022 and I am in Canada where these bikes are extremely rare. The closest garage is a diagnostic connector is 8hrs away.

Before I make this trip to the garage is there any advice or thoughts on what to test, replace or possible ideas for a work around to confirm the problem? Assume the only things that are definite are the compression, spark, and air; as well, the fuel pump, and the injector are in good working order. Everything else could be a possibility, we might have overlooked something, or did something incorrectly.

Thanks,
Eric

I had a similar issue with my '13 TXC310r last year. The bike died while on a long ride. After 10 mins it fired back up, but 10 mins later it started backfiring and would die. Would not restart. 10 mins later it would re-fire, but continued the cycle of dying after another 10 mins or so. I pulled the injector and it was spraying some while hitting the starter. Pulled the fuel line from the injector and fuel would stream out while hitting the starter. I assumed all was good with pump/injector etc. I too cleaned the injector using a battery and reassembled everything with no change. It sat for a while that way, one day I said screw it and ordered a new Quantum pump, new injector and a stainless in tank filter from Best Dual Sport Bikes. Replaced all 3 for under 200$, it started first hit of the button and has ran great since. The stock pump was working, but sounded like gravel outside of the tank. The stock Mahle filter in the tank apparently hates ethanol and was coming apart and black (probably the brushes from the fuel pump) and also clogging the injector.

Definitely should check or replace fuel filter. ‘12 model here but bike was not responding to iBeat changes in fuel. Took it to George @Uptite and he seemed to suspect the fuel filter right away. He put an inline plain filter in and safety wired the connections. Solved.

Hi guys,
Thanks for the responses, but I wish the fuel filter was just my issue. As above, the injector is brand new and fuel is moving through the lines no issue. What ever is wrong appears to be electrical, because both the old injector and new injector aren't consistently opening even even when the presents of voltages to the injector is confirmed.

I also forgot to state in my first post that a FI code is flashing. 6 short flashes in a row. If anyone knows what that means please let me know.

https://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t29035646-fi_light_blinks_6_times

you have Keihin injection like this guy although his is a Goldwing. It might be the same fault code though.

i just searched 6 short flashes keihin fi. Not sure if you have a single flash like he describes but hey…worth a look.

Another place to check is calling JD Tuners…they should be familiar with codes on Keihin FI

I have a 2013 txc310 that won't start. Its got spark and fuel. Fuel pump runs. New injector sprays fuel when cranking. flywheel keyway is good. Anyone have any ideas why no start?

And also is it normal for the fan to run when engine is cranking over?

Hi,
So since, I have replaced the TPS and sent the ECU to ZipTy Racing for a new map now the issue has altered. Instead after a few priming kicks, I can kick the bike over a cause ignition; however the bike will not idle. The bike start only briefly enough to burn the fuel pump in to it from the priming kicks, then dies immediately. Any further thoughts?

Fuel pressure regulator? In my experience when they go, the bike will not run and fuel will not go through the injector at all. .

If you unhook the fuel line that goes to the injector and you see fuel when the pump runs (either on crank or power up prime), it does not mean the regulator is fine. You have to see what pressure the pump provides (3.5 bar/52 psi ). This means putting a pressure gage in the end of the hose after pulling of the injector.

I made a test rig with a piece of 2" threaded steel pipe 12" long. On one end was a reducer that I hooked up to compressed air. The bottom was reduced down to a hose barb and I hooked a temporary fuel line to the injector. Unscrew the top (where the compressed air goes) and pour in fuel. Put the end back on and adjust air pressure to be 52 psi Start the bike. The compressed air will push gas into the injector.

If this works than either then the fuel pump.or regulator is bad, if you just replaced the pump then probably it is the regulator.

They are like $40-$50.

https://ca-cycleworks.com/fpr35k.html