2013 Txc310r overheated/won't idle

So this weekend near the end of a long ride, my 2013 TXC310r bogged and died. I looked down to see the lower radiator hose had loosened and dumped all the coolant. We stopped not 5 minutes earlier and it wasn't off, and it was a short road ride to the point it bogged and died. We fixed the hose, emptied water bottles and filled the radiator.

The bike refired after a few minutes, but now won't idle without throttle and dies if you say pull in the clutch coming to a stop. It also seems lean and pops on decel. This am it fired just fine after sitting over night and idled, but as soon as it warmed up, it runs like crap and won't idle.
My research points to the water temp sensor in the cylinder. Would the short overheating cause it to fail?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

That was my first thought. I don't think it is an expensive item to replace, so would do that first.

I've ordered a new water temp sensor. We'll see what that does when it arrives this week.

Well no dice on the Water Temp Sensor. New one finally arrived yesterday, popped it in and its doing the same exact thing. Starts right up cold, idles fine, takes throttle blips just fine. But as soon as its warm it runs crappy down low. If you ride it and dont let the revs drop, it will stay running. As soon as it dies it has to sit 10 mins before it will restart, then gets progressively worse as it gets warm again.
Im starting to think this is just coincidental with the short overheating episode.

My research led me to this thread, this is EXACTLY my symptoms. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2013-txc-250-starts-cold-stalls-hot-then-wont-start.86961/page-6

Any chance of a leak/crack on manifold? Trying to think of what would change fueling after warmup. Also what map are you running? Assuming Map 3 open filter cage, etc.... I know Map 1 was useless and had all your symptoms.

I checked the manifold visually, all looked good. The bike only has 70 hrs. I was out of starting fluid, but I'll use that to spray around the manifold and try spraying it down the TB when it gets hot. That would eliminate an electrical gremlin if it tries to fire. The bike was mapped to the Leo Vince Open pipe map 3 before it left the dealer new, as well as the starter gear recal.

I would check battery as it sits and while running to see if may be discharging slightly at low revs. Also any potentially loose wires. Next could be slightly clogged injector or flakey fuel pump though I've never had issues with either on my bike.

I've been fighting this issue for years. Super frustrating.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2013-txc310r-wont-e-start-or-kick-yes-ive-searched-a-lot.88066/

Just found a vacuum leak between the intake manifold and cylinder head on my bike:

Wow, Ill have to look into that on mine. I quickly sprayed some carb cleaner around that area the other day, but w/o a wideband hooked up. I was mainly just listening for an idle change. I could explain alot of the lean popping/flame out stuff this bike does even before this latest round of headaches.

Oldhuskyrider had issues with a separating/leaking manifold awhile ago and has commented on this a few times.... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-te450-starts-revs-dies-immediately.27557/#post-246619

Well guys, I finally tore into this in earnest today. I've been traveling for work and just got busy with life. Anyways, it fired right up as usual, idled fine, took throttle and revved fine. Let it idle for 5 mins, putted around the yard and it began to get boggy, wouldn't idle without throttle, died if idled down. Finally it died for good and wouldnt refire. I pulled the filter and sprayed some starting fluid down the chute and nothing.
I tore the bike down, tested the coil with my multimeter. Does anyone have a clear explanation of settings for the ohm range and what I'm looking for? It seems all over the place.
Plug looks dirty and corroded above the threads. I put the plug back in the coil, grounded to the head and it sparks, but not what I'd call bright blue.
Pulled the injector, rigged it back to the tank. It sprays a fine mist for 1 second then nothing, I can feel it clicking in my hand.
Removed the injector, hit the button and the fuel pump shoots fuel across my shop.
So I think I'm down to 3 possible problems. Either the coil is bad, the plug is bad, or the injector is clogged/bad or any combo of the 3.
This only happens when warmed up which led my to think it's electrical. I literally haven't touched the bike in months and it fired right up and idled great until warm

Hi brent I had the some problem and I but new injector and what i belive it was the temp sensor
a but a new temp sensor in ... near the timmingchain

after that perfect bike runing great take care reg

Well happy to report the problem has been solved. I replaced the injector after doing a quick test as the pattern was wonky. This was quicker and easier than sending the stock one out for cleaning and crossing my fingers. Plus the way it was failing almost to the same second 10 minutes after starting leads me to believe it was also failing electrically. I then went upstream and the pump sounded labored and grinding. This led to complete disassembly of the tank, where I found the in tank filter was dark black and full of sludge.
I ordered a new kit from Quantum with pump and filter. Save yourself the time and just order the pump/strainer as their complete kit with Mahle filter comes with a KL1022 which physically won't fit in the tank. I researched and ended up with a Best Dual Sports billet filter with stainless screens, rather than the shitty paper Mahle ones.
I reassembled everything and it fired right and idles smoother than it has in a long time. Took it for a nice 45 minute ride and it idles and runs like new.

Well done. That’s a good result. I was thinking damaged piston and o’rings from the overheat causing low compression. Good job you noticed the loose hose and caught it in time.