125-200cc 2013 wr165 airboot cracking!

Was doin pre ride check the other nite with cap lamp on n saw the airboot is crackin on the bottom. Crackin where it slightly deforms due to lectron length. Assuming this is the cause as it looks fine elsewhere. No cracks anywhere else. Who's cut there's down 5-10mm to let it sit naturally n how'd u go with the lip/hose clamp connection(have to grind down?). Will order a newy even though this one isn't that bad don't wanna risk it. Could maybe sika it up I guess? Intake boot has small perishing cracks too(bn like it since near new) so mite order a newy of that too. Hopefully parts r available!

Can't you make a ring out of perspex that spaces the horn into the air box to step it back further.?

My boot cracked due to an over zealous application of the jubile clip.
I super glued it together.

I've never honestly checked juicy does the boot fix inside the box? U mean put spacer in the airbox under boot seal?

Yeah that's what would be looking into. Course it's alot of work but would save cutting down your boot.

Will spacing the boot back into the airbox cause it to rub against the shock spring?
I'm curious if the boot can successfully shortened at the carby end as mine runs very close to the shock due to fitting a Keihin.

I don't like the sound of a lotta work juicy!

Yeah was thinking maybe 5-10mm off the seam where hose clamp sits then grind(that sounds harsh!) off the rib so u can still get full width of hose clamp on there. I havnt really looked into this in much detail jus thinkin out loud. Be easier to see if doable with boot in hand not on bike. Not sure on shock clearance Oldscool will have a look tomoro wen I giv her a scrub(if don't go ridin).

Wonder what they'll slug me?!

You go riding?! Lol
Well it would only get narrower near the shock if you steped it backward no?
Will have to look into it too, that said i dont have an issue with mine.

It's only superficial looking ATM but potential to cause $ damage. The tightarse in me jus wants to put sum black sikaflex over it.

The only problem is it doesn't have enough duct tape on it yet I wrapped both of mine in rubber splicing tape. There's a method to proper application, but if you do it right it will stick and self amalgamate, so it becomes almost solid rubber over time. No more cracks!

Yeah use sikaflex, looked at the 250 an it doesn't look possible to do a spacer as the cage is rivited with short screws.
Then the edge of the horn would be hitting the air box.. it's a crappy idea. Who ever came up with it is a Muppet!!

Cmon Steve you're encouraging me to be a tightarse.....

Psssst i didn't say stop.

Hypothetically if one was to attempt black sika on said airboot then how would one go about this process? Slightly ruff area up for best stick. Obviously it would be degreased/brake cleaner clean

Just clean it up slap it on an wrap it in the plumbers rescue tape, that will stop anything getting out for a while.

Ruff as guts juicy. I like it!

Gettin out not the prob dirt gettin in could be exy!

I couldn't get any sealant to stick for long, that's why I went to rubber tape.

Yeah the rescue tape is the stuff.

I didn't know about plumbers rescue tape, looks good. I'm using 3M rubber tape, like this: http://amzn.com/B001CGVEXS

Did ya wrap whole boot in it or jus put strips over cracked section?

I wrapped the whole thing mate before installing the boot. With that rubber tape you stretch it a few times and it warms up then you can form it to irregular shapes somewhat. I was able to get it in the joint and onto the flange, so basically no chance for a leak. Put a wrap of electrical tape to hold it in place until it starts to bond.