TE/TC 2017 te 250 plug and pipe problems

So got my Te250 and notice it has a NGKBR7 plug in it. Every bike I have owned in the past has used br8 plug. Is BR7 hotter or colder. Also my exhaust pipe is leaking bad right off the cylinder and pipe is all crooked not very good quality control. Talk about rich will need leaning out no question.

That pipe is way outta wack. Not to sure about 250s but my 15 300 has the br7 stock also. If that were my bike somebody would be replacing that pipe for sure. That should've never left the dealer that way.

NGK heat range lower number is hotter plug. 7 is hotter than 8 don't tune with heat range designed by engineering to operate with 7 plug.

as for pipe, if you work on your own bike just undo all the mounts and re adjust the pipe (maybe grease the o ring) and put it back into place, seems a minimal gripe I swap pipes out like eating potato chips just do it. don't throw back out the new bike thing to me I get it, but F it all just fix it. If the pipe is actually tweaked then I would call the dealer to install another.
The new 17 Mikuni carb equipped bikes are well known to be off in carburation (which isn't a great thing). JD Jetting has a known reasonable set up or use your own spec and adjust it, I believe even the OEM has acknowledged some issue with this.

So got pipe fixed which was way more tight than it should have been. Leaned out pilot from 40 to 37.5 and main from 440 to 430 and did one more heat cycle and sounded a lot better will ride it this way and see how it feels when spring comes. If anybody has jetting recommendations let me know I live at 2000 feet. Thanks for any help.

Cant help much but I was running a 35 pilot and 450 main with mikuni on my '14 - and got nice plugs.
In a hot humid place - not your temps . I'm a bit suss on 430 main .
I would've just changed the pilot . . check main with plug test at top end . Might be good to run in on rich side .
Also needle height could be worth looking at .
I heard the JD needle works well on '17s
7 is correct plug - 8 is ok - I run an NGK8 ECM which is shorter for easier removal .

Pics needed for thread.....

Also the mikuni always seems to make bike run rich for a while - 15 minutes - takes a while to clear up

Thanks for the help. Seems the 17 husky airbox are really closed up and looking at it they are so less air means less fuel is my thought. I am only one main below what they recommend. Bike stock doing three heat cycles was crazy rich. Had another guy tell me if you open airbox then you need to richen main up. I want a real off road bike that just runs clean down low and open up a little up top like Beta 250rr not like 250sx. So if it underpowered for 250 no problem as long as it lugs down low. People buy a TE and try to make them tx,sx,xc why I want a bike that will not tire me out after 2 hours like Te were designed to do. I will go Lectron and v force reeds if needed but if bike can run stock I will keep it that way and enjoy it for what it was designed to do.

sweet ride .

yeh saw a video on youtube about opening the box up and big improvement on 17s .. They do say they need head mods - ie changing head design but they said that about the 14 too and mine is stock and it lugs well.

My airbox mods turned out really well. Waiting on a RK TEK Head to arrive by next week. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet.

Husky_10, by opening the box like that (which looks great by the way) what did you end up doing with Jetting ?

Pedec, I have been looking at the Emperor Skid plate and Link guard combo for months now, how did it turn out?

The emperor skid plate fits and look good. Was going to buy sxs skid plate being lighter maybe and one piece but I know that emperor makes tuff stuff and this skid plate mounts,fits and designed very good. The linkage protector make linkage bike just as good as PDS bike for gliding over stuff now if not better slippery plastic along whole bottom. I am also going to put on there new one piece rad guard have you seen them yet. The factory rad setup is very good and impresive for factory but decided for $180.00 a rad guard can save a good day of riding or racing.

Yeah, I saw they looked nice. My "go to" favorite is the BPD (Bullet Proof Design) and I have DROP TESTED them on several bikes several times in severe conditions with zero damage to the bike's radiator. They run around 220 to 230 depending on who you buy them from.

Sorry for not getting back sooner mxfan69 I have yet to start the bike till I install the RK TEK Head but I switched from a 2-3M Meting Rod to a 4-2M Metering Rod set at 2.002.5"

Gotcha, even though I dont know Lectron metering numbers and which numbers going which direction means leaner or richer. Sorry to be a pest.

plugs heat ranges are like jets it does not suit every country, 7 is hotter than 8, open desert, MX or warm temps the 8 is a better choice.

and Gomez, Jarvis, Bolt among others all ride/race/win at the world level, on their 300s in basically OEM configuration.

I am sure they do have mechanic that can jet a bike perfect everyday no matter condtions. That the secret to any 2 stroke the power is there stock but to get it to run that way is harder than a 4 stroke with EFI. A Lectron does help huge once set and help guys that are not sure why bike is not running good or how to jet bike without blowing it up.

Shaved Heads, different reed petals, custom ignition curves, true factory pipes, the cylinder ports cleaned up, PV polishing, modified air boxes, cryo-hardened engine internals, top shelf clutch and parts, and a professional mechanic assembly, including jetting the carb AFTER they modify the bore, the slide, etc etc. Nah, they're just riding oem motor'd bikes...yeah....

I got a little more air by putting 2 1" fliters in the number plate into the air box. Got em on rockymountain for like $10.