250-500cc 300+Dyna Ring+WC elite perch

Hi all.
Got all my stuff from Kelly a while ago, and slowly one by one I've been putting them onfor a test.
The Works connection elite perch was one of my first addons, as the stock domino one is really crappy. In order for it to work, I had to strech the mid cable adjuster almost all the way out for the perch adjuster not to be too far out on its threads. Two weeks later and its time for gear oil change. Took the oportunity to put the dyna Ring in. Did it all as the instructions suggests, and as I suspected, when I got to setting the required gap, I couldn't get it tight enough (even though it feels stifffff) for the clutch to disengage. Opened it all back in order to install the provided washer, just to find out its diameters dont fit (prolly good for Hondas).
Am I missing something? If not, I'll be looking for a different clutch cable which has a relatively shorter inner cable. any suggestions - I remember reading somewhere something about 99 Honda CR250...?
Does it really need to be that stiff of a lever pull once it all works?

you can further tigten the cable. there is a mid cable adjustment on the right side where it's attached to the frame. I've also added a nut and washer to engine case where the cable perch is. i had to adjust mine way out too.

You might be thinking of the throttle cable. It was mentioned for those who have switched to the PWK carb and it depends on the top connection.

Thanks.
Of course I used the mid cable adjuster as first option - its almost fully opened. Didn't think about a spacer on the engine side... I'll look at it. Thanks.

franhoser, maybe it was that. thanks

perhaps try a spacer in the clutch actuating rod maybe an additional ball bearing.

I just got my Dyna Ring for my 2009 300. It took only min and works great.

I have a dyna ring in my WR250. W/ some sanity checks from WVdag I got things going in the right direction...

Use the clutch rod adjustment for most of the adjustment, then the cable adjusters to fine tune. You'll need to lengthen the rod; this will keep the clutch lever from getting too tight when you're done w/ the fine tuning....

When your done you should have it to the point that the clutch pull is basically on par w/ the stock clutch pull. However, with the clutch pulled in the bike will creep forward when you give it gas but won't actually get going until mid-high rpms. I called Revloc to make sure that this is the case and they said that's what is supposed to happen...

I ended up using the husky perch and lever, however after a few rides I decided to take off the dyna ring, so none of this is relevant to me. Thanks all

BTW, the spacer that came in mine must be for a Honda; the ID was way to small to be useful... I ended up getting on from Halls when I ordered some other stuff. I doubt I'll end up using it because I can get enough adjustment outta the clutch rod...

How does the bike start from a dead engine start? I've been thinking of getting a dyna ring. But i don't want to screw up how fast the bike starts.

+1 i took mine out too

thought you liked yours ant?

Okay, so I have to ask... What didn't you guys like about the dyna ring?

I like mine on the wr150. I have the same problem with the cable. I used a spacer at the engine case. Mine was alittle to wide and cause the clutch arm to pop up out of the case. I have since removed it and I'm back to square one. In second gear I'm getting some slip that taking the snap out of the engine. I run mobile delvac 15w40 off highway oil in it. I may change it to belray gearsaver 70w. Other than that it works great.

I'm interested in why these are being removed too, because I was thinking about trying one.

I rode mine like 4 times. Technically, as an auto clutch, it worked ok. A few things on it I didnt like and all of them are auto clutch generally related, and not revloc specific. First is the fact that when I climb some nasty uphill and stall it (even if on purpose when I just cant continue climbing) I cant relay on the gear to stop me from falling all the way down backwards, or even just using engine brake on downhills. It got me into some unpleasant situations. Second is that its almost impossible to feather the clutch for obstacle passing, and frankly, you loose all clutch sensitivity and get into auto pilot mode. When racing, this auto pilot mode gets you into "sleepy" feeling and you just don't twist the throttle the way you know... For me, I got the feeling I lost the connection with the bike.The only advantage is it doesn't stall. I'm faster without it. I climb nastier things better and more fluent without it. And, I enjoy riding a great bike (with a great original clutch) rather than driving a taxi.
I guess that as an auto clutch its one of the best, its just that with it I discovered that auto clutch aren't for me. I do see how other people with different riding style can enjoy and like it on their bikes.

I have had no issues with the clutch, save that it is stiffer then I like. It pulls you through corners very smoothly, flat loose corners or rutted out corners. Loose river type rocks works great and I have no worries in stalling it. Now I did have some issues with Two foot logs, it did not give me the smooth, pop the front tire and role over them feeling. So I went back and used the clutch without adjusting the clutch and was able to go over them fine. What I’m trying to say is that I can still use my clutch as I did before and feather it, for some obstacles and then for the majority of the ride I can relax and not worry about stalling. I love mine.

dito on this. exactly the same issue here. the main thing was nasty climbs. I used the dyna ring about a dozen rides and finnally had enough. Put the stock clutch back and never looked back.

So it sounds like some riders like auto clutches and some do not; nothing in particular about the dyna-ring proper... Interesting, for those that did not like it, even the clutch override feature did not help?