310 overheating--->do the mods!

Hi,

did a very tough Cross Country race last weekend (very muddy conditions). After 40 minutes the connecting hose of the cooler exploded. First, I thought it was the pressure valve and continued after a short stop. Approx. 30min later I had no clutch pull and I had to finish the race. Also 2 other 310 had similar problems with their bike.

Bought a high quality 8mm hose today. Also found yesterday, that the clutch line has a hole from the heat from the header pipe. Also the O-Ring from the clutch cylinder is broken. Now I orderd the replacment pistion from 7602 with the x-ring.
Both other 310 riders melted the platic T. Didn't inspect mine. Will also replace it with the alu Y.

I'm sorry, that I didn't the recommended mods here before....

KR, Joe

PS: Fotos from the Pro run on my site under http://www.photoweb.at/Motorcycle/Offroad/ACC-Ampflwang-09/9505940_m9a5G/1/638550353_3JEQX

Winner was the five-time MX world champion Joel Smets/Belgium on his BMW G450X

Wire the fan with a manual override and vineger rinse/refill with Engine Ice.

Problem gone. (TE510)

MAT

help needed

Hi folks,

I would kindly ask you, if someone from the US boys can help me. I cannot get the Y-splitter here in Europe and Uptite did not respond to my mail.

Can someone organize such a thing for me and send it in an envelope with USPS? Ideally with an paypal account for easy money transfer.

Thanks for help

Joe

Once you add the Engine Ice you cant add water to the cooling system correct? I dont like not being able to add water out on the trail. I am going to run Waterwetter and a higher pressure rad cap to help prevent overheating. Plus all the hose mods.

Hi Kelly,

thanks for the response. Will place an order.

KR, joe

I ordered a "Y" from Kelly a couple of months back and it took no longer than a week and a half to arrive in the UK. (I think I got one of the last ones in stock!). From what I've read here the best way to get hold of George at Uptite is by phone.

@ Droolsport: Engine Ice is supplied diluted with (pure) water, so if you lose coolant out on the trail then you can add water no problem (so long as you've filtered out the sand and tadpoles with your sock...). You'll lose protection at very low and high temperatures, but you'll be able to get home. It's better IMO to add plain water than another type of coolant that may be incompatible. If it's your preferred coolant then it may be wise to keep a spare can in your garage / truck.

Brought a 1" brass barbed "T" fitting from Lowe's. Seems to work great and only $6.00 and change.

The T won't flow as much coolant to the right radiator as a Y. Some say the coolant flows too fast not allowing time to transfer as much heat as it could.

I have a Y but have never overheated either Husq I had.

Couple riding (& engineering) buddies of mine were just talking about that not long ago. I suggested since I'm more on the sparky side of things, that the one of us that's a mechanical engineer, should calc it out......got some grumbling about how's been too long and heard a beer pop open.

the one i just bought from R&D husky in australia came from a uk company so made there... i'll get the address if you want ? possibly a lot cheaper due to pound on its backside at the moment too (I WATCH THE INDEX !)

Hi,

thanks, but I orderd already the Y for me and an friend from Kelly. Also waiting for the improved piston for the clutch cylinder.

KR, Joe

PS: Anyone tried the red silicone hoses for our bikes from eb* (seller from Shanghai, China).

i have a set from asi performance i think, chinese company that i got on ebay. they have been on the bike for over a year with zero problems

It's me after the breakdown. Lokking sad...

I do my best calculating after a beer or 6.

Me too!

My engineering college smarts are about 25 years out of date now but increasing coolant flow rate (within reason) will have the effect of reducing the "boundary layer" between the moving coolant and the stationary metal surface that the heat is being transferred from / to (the boundary layer is a skin of fluid that "sticks" to solid surfaces, blocking the conduction of heat to the moving coolant).

In practice there's probably an optimal flow rate above which heat transfer doesn't increase much while pressure, erosion, coolant aeration and cavitation around the pump impeller aren't a problem.

The argument that increasing the flow rate increases coolant temp because the coolant doesn't spend long enough in the radiators doesn't hold water (sorry!) as it would also mean that coolant in the engine wouldn't have enough time to pick up heat.

Like I said, it was a long time ago I had to study this stuff and it was gas turbines, not liquid cooling circuits that I was working with, so I may be completely wide of the mark!