Hoping this will be of help to riders without a plug in tuner box to richen up the mapping, especially in the stalling/flameout region just off idle. It isn't as sexy as individually mapping each load point in the maps, but I find it pretty close to the mark in my own 2011 TE449. (I have this in the original post for the butterfly removal thread also). In the original post, I mentioned how I have readjusted my primary TPS to richen the maps. (Known as map-shifting)In the post, I did it by 'ear' finding the smoothest running, turning the TPS as you would a mixture screw on a carb.I also mentioned that I wanted to get some factory style plugs to make up a test loom & give you all a TPS voltage to aim for, but I had trouble buying small enough quantities of the plugs (less than 500).Motosportz posted up a link to a guy who supplies KTM tps test looms (also Keihin efi).I'm happy to report that his test lead is perfect for this & I'll stick the link in the original post.-http://www.tpstool.com/ (Use the one with 3 pins in a line for EXC with EFI)For my bike, the best running without the butterfly in & the Akro slip-on muffler is an idle setting of 0.8v .This works sweet for my local conditions, no flameouts, nice fat power & can even crack the throttle to full at idle without hesitation.I'd definitely recommend getting the plug set & try adjusting the settings on your own bike, as I believe it to be half the trouble with stalling issues!!To use the test lead set -- Have the ignition (Run switch) turned off (Do NOT turn power on with any plugs disconnected)!- Disconnect the lower TPS wiring plug from the sensor & connect it to the lead set, plug the other end of the lead set into the TPS sensor.- Start & run the engine.- Switch your multimeter to Volts DC (Have it on a setting that will cope with at least 5.0v as there is a signal of 5v in one pin of the plug)- Place the Earth lead of the multimeter on a good earth on the bike, I chose the cylinder head.- Place the Positive lead into the pins one at a time until you find the low voltage reading (Less than 1.0 v).- Compare to the the factory setting which is 0.7v.- As mentioned above, mine runs sweetest at 0.8v, this is achieved by undoing the locking screw & moving the TPS.- While you are there, check the 5.0v signal is very close to 5v, mine was 5.01v. (This can indicate power or earth problems to the ECU if incorrect)** Note. If you move the sensor too far while adjusting, the ecu will cut fuel at idle. If this happens, move it back & begin again **** It should also be noted here that because the voltages are so small, little changes make a big difference.I used a cheap tyre-shine silicone spray to dry my TPS connector once & the bike would not idle again until I cleaned it out with quality electrical cleaner. The signal voltage had changed too much.Clean all EFI plugs with good quality electrical cleaner as they mostly use these 0-5v type signals ** View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz3sqiBg7xU
This is really, really real. ly not the proper way to do it. By confusing the computer to think the throttle is open slightly to bump up fuel and possibly timing? This will affect starting, idling, deceleration, everything
It certainty does affect the rest of the mapping. Adversely? No. It makes the poorly calibrated factory mapping work very well indeed. There is a voltage at which the bike won't idle, I believe this is the ' idle voltage window' set by Keihin/BMW for getting the correct idle. All other Keihin efi dirtbike systems that I have found reference to so far, can be tuned the same way. I only had 15 mins with the bike today before flying out for work, but will make a voltage sweep video up next week when home to show the effects of the range. I do understand your concern, but in practice, on my own bike, it runs very nicely. It is not as flash as a PCV/JD etc, but it works. In principal, it's no different to raising a carb needle one clip & we all did this as standard practice 'till EFI showed up. The bike starts perfectly hot or cold unless stalled. It has never liked starting after a stall even from new. It has effected idling, it has made it smoother now & transitions into light throttle without the original hesitation everyone is trying so hard to tune out with added on boxes. On overrun I have no back-firing or popping so I'd say that seems fine as well. If I were to be picky, there is a slight surge a light throttle only noticeable through town on the road. My oil doesn't smell of fuel when I drain it & the plug & exhaust aren't too sooty. I'd like to take it to a Dyno & get some pretty AF ratios to post up but the $260 for the experience is money I can spend on tyres, fuel & new riding gear. I'm pretty happy with it how it is.
Do you notice any change in voltages after performing the electrical TPS reset procedure posted elsewhere on the site? Thanks for sharing.
I deliberately haven't done the electrical reset as I'm not sure what the outcome will be. I'm sure the reading won't change, just not sure if the ecu will run the same as it is now & don't want it to change from where I have it. In a BMW G450x doc that 9880sts has, the system does the reset each start if the throttle isn't touched & left to idle for several minutes. I now always blip the throttle during warm-up a few times to stop it happening, just in case.
I think the TPS resets on start-up each time after the battery has been disconnected long enough for the capacitor to discharge. But I may be wrong......again.
