450 te

Hi, I'm new here, and have just bought a 450Te on an 09, I used it for the 1st time today and found it great but leaving me with a few questions I hope can be answered here,
I have a lot of back fire, is this usual?
The F/I feels a little on/off, not as smooth as I imagined.
I haven't fitted the full power kit yet, I'm waiting till its run in, will this cure any of the above, and generaly improve the bike.
I was told to remove cat and Lan sensor for derestricting, but found on this site the info for fitting the map switch, and removing the throttle restrictor are these good mods?
And lastly were can I get bar risers?
Thanks for any help.

If you have a warranty on this bike it may make some of your choices different than here in the US.

If you're getting backfire something's a bit off.

You might want to wait to do most of the de-restricting. Advice from a UK dealer might be called for here.

De-restricting WILL lead to a richer mix and will probably bet better for the bike during break-in. The bike might be a little lean right now and would run hotter than necessary during break-in.

Do change the oil at 50 mi (80km) and put a good 20-50 motorcycle specific petroleum based oil in as well as change filter. This is the most critical oil change.

De-restricting will consist of
1. Throttle stop removal
2. Cat removal
3. O2 sensor removal (which makes bike seek the "race" map, a richer mixture overall.
4. Map switch will allow access to a retarded power mode for slippery conditions, ....not heard much about how useful this is so.....

What's your dealer's name and have you asked them these questions.?

GH Motorcycles, I'l ring them tomorrow. Has any one fiited the map switch?

Yes, on my TE450. It's not really part of the power-up kit as you don't need it fitted in order to get full power - it only gives you an option to make the throttle response a bit softer which might be useful in bad conditions. If you do fit one read the notes carefully as there are some conditions about when the switch will work, e.g. not when the engine's cold, so you might think there's something wrong with it.

Husky Sport said there was no reason not to fit the power up kit from the start (and it doesn't affect the warranty), so they did mine before I picked it up. So I can't comment on how it runs without P/U, but with it all done mine doesn't backfire a great deal - I get an occasional pop on the overrun but nothing major and it runs very well. I have a G2 throttle cam fitted, which I'm sure helps by making the initial part of the throttle a little more progressive. Not that the engine feels snatchy anyway, there's just a lot of grunt to deal with when the ground's slippery, and the G2 makes it easier to control (similar to the effect of the map switch I guess).

One other thing for powering up in addition to those already mentioned is removal of the restrictive air filter cage and replacing it with the much more open one from the power up kit, which you should have got with the bike.

Hopefully your dealer was able to advise you on all this? As far as oil changes and the like are concerned I'd go with whatever the dealer recommends, then your warranty should be safe (I don't suppose they'll mind if you want to do it more often though!). They should also advise on things like air filter cleaning, which you'll probably want to do pretty much after every ride.

One last thing which you may have seen elsewhere on the forum; make sure your coolant overflow tank is filled with coolant to the "Min" level mark, so it won't burst if hot coolant overflows into it.

Thanks for the advice, it had an oily air filter gauze in the box of bits. I was told this was a spark arrester, and not necessary to fit, nothing else for the air box?Have you fited the smaller rear light with out drilling the bodywork and having fixings showing?

The gauze screen with a rubber sealing ring around the outside is a spark arrestor and fits between the air filter and the flange it sits against. I gather it's supposed to prevent backfires from setting light to the air filter though how likely that is to happen in practice I have no idea. Husky Sport left mine fitted and I've not seen any reason to remove it as the bike's running well.

Here is the standard air filter cage:
View attachment 2338

And here is the one from the power up kit:
View attachment 2337

Not hard to see which flows more air! Just unscrew your foam air filter and pop it out then you can look inside and see which one you have (you may need to remove the battery first to gain access). Actually, you could probably make a fair guess even without removing the filter just by pressing against it to see whether the cage inside it is solid all round, but it only takes a minute to pop the filter out so you can have a good look and you'll need to be able to do that to clean it regularly (just make sure you get it back in correctly so it's fully seated, and you may want to smear some grease on the flange to get a good seal if there isn't any on there). If you're using the standard cage, you should have been supplied with the power up one in the kit of parts you got when you bought the bike.

I'm using the standard rear light so I can't help there - it didn't bother me either way and ISTR the other one has the number plate at quite an angle which I suspected might not be strictly legal and is one more reason for PC plod to pull you if he's having a bad day, especially if you also have a slightly small flexible number plate which isn't entirely legal. Not that I'd do that of course.

Ok, very helpful, I've just checked and its fitted with the power up air filter cage, the only one supplied,I've also tried to get fork air bleeders, but so far have drawn a blank.
Do you have them,or any ideas where to get them?
Thanks

I got my fork bleeders from here: RPA MX. They are these gold ones: "Motion Pro - Pro-bleeder - Without External Spring Preload M4 x 0.7", which seem to fit ok despite there being no mention of Husqvarna (they're meant for KTMs which have similar forks).

Be VERY careful to follow the instructions when you tighten them as it's a very small thread and you could easily strip it or snap it. Also I'd carry the original screws and o-rings with you as the bleeders do stick up a fair bit so there's always the danger of snapping one off as you ride - if you can get the remainder out you can pop the original screw back in.

So I've lost track of exactly what state your bike's currently in; we now know you have the power-up air filter cage, but are the cat and O2 sensor still in place? And what about the throttle stop? I have no idea how well it would be expected to run if it's only the cage which has been changed; I guess if the O2 sensor is in place it will be using that to adjust the mixture but I believe it will still be on the non-power-up mapping so I don't know how well it would run in that configuration - you'd need expert advice on that one! I'd suggest getting all of the power up bits done ASAP if you're going to go do them, then getting the dealer to give it a check over on iBeat.

Did you get any help from GH?

Hi, just read your reply,thanks for the fork bleeders info.
Well, it appears only the power up air cage is fitted,should it be supplied with the standard one?Cat and o2 sensor still fitted,and the throttle stop. I've ordered the map switch which I understand is a straight forward plug in job behind the headlight. So is a new software download needed or will it just plug and play as I believe. I printed off the ten pages from here that show the fitting of the Power Up Kit, this should be enough info to do it all?

I'd have expected you to get the standard cage with the bike if they've fitted the power-up one, as you should get both. Personally I'd never want to fit the standard one so it wouldn't worry me too much, unless you think there's a chance you might want to put the whole bike back to standard to sell it one day. Might be worth asking GH about it anyway, and about the O2 sensor blanking plug if you don't have one (covers the hole left by the sensor if you remove it).

I wouldn't guarantee it, but I don't believe you actually have to have anything done to the mapping when you make the other changes. As I understand it, when it realises the O2 sensor isn't there any more it should switch to the power-up mapping automatically. However, it might be useful to have the dealer check it on iBeat afterwards just to make sure everything is set up correctly as it can make a big difference if the settings are out.

Trust me, if you get it fully powered up and running properly you'll really notice the improvement!

I spoke to GH and they said they fit the open air filter cage when preping the bike as the standard cage is to restrictive, they also removed the throttle restrictor as other- wise it barely moves, so it looks like i only have the Lan sensor to remove along with the Cat and use the bits supplied to remove the wiring and fit the plug.I also bought the ma\p switch to plug in behind the front light,should be enough to transform it?

It should certainly help!

08 Te450

I'm in the same boat. My bike is an 08 TE450 with a powerup kit installed. I've got 6 hours on it at this point. So far, I've changed the oil, torqued some bolts...applied some thread locker...and installed a steering stabilizer.

Rode in the desert this past weekend and the bike felt like a 2 stroke where it would lag and then open wide up. I'm running the 2.2Ohm cap instead of the O2 sensor wiring and delete plug, throttle stop is removed, Arrow pipe, and I believe the air filter cage is the freeflow type.

significant decel popping, engine dies when I chop the throttle, sounds like it's too lean...how's that possible with the 2.2Ohm cap sending "floor it" to the EFI?

It's going in to the shop tomorrow. I hope I don't have to buy a PowerCommander or iBeat...I work on computers all day long and like bikes because they're loud and dirty; something you debug with a wrench and sweat and not a terra-term console at 9600 baud.

Chad P.

I have no experience of the 08 model but I believe there may have been more issues with EFI on those compared to the 09s. Does the shop have iBeat? If so, maybe all it needs is the basic settings sorting out and it might be fine. Let's hope so!

Just a thought - you didn't mention doing anything to the air filter itself. It's worth cleaning it after every ride, especially in desert or dusty conditions as it can soon get clogged. Probably not going to cause weak running (unless it's fallen off!), but no harm having a look if you haven't already.

Don't forget these engines are tight when new which affects acceleration and deceleration. Get some more hours on the engines before making to many conclusions.

If you're still running with the O2 sensor, you will get the decel popping since the ECU has it running very lean.

Is 2.20 Ohm a typo? It should be 2.2k Ohm, not 2.2 Ohm. Any blinking lights on your dash? Doesn't run right even with a full tank of gas?

te power

Ive got an 08te 450,uncorked,power up kit,readjusted on the i beat and it runs just as you said[like a quick 2 stroke],kind slow just off throtle,mid and top end is fine.I believe these bikes are not motocrossers,but a bit quicker than a "trail bike"If you need more power i think a txc is the way to go,but no plate !

This weekend I took the exhaust off to remove the CAT and lanber sensor, the CAT was already removed, just had to take Lan out, the aircage and throttle restrictors were taken out pria to delivery. I am assuming the CAT would be found fitted in the y-piece just behind the lan sensor.
I find it strange the dealer would remove it and not the lan, was this because you have to remove the tank to unplug the lan, and plug in the cap. none of the removed items are in the goodies box.
Any way Also fitted the map switch, alloy bash plate and performed oil and filter change, moved the bars back, fitted the other rear light, and generaly admired it.
I haven't ridden it yet, still want fork bleeders, and it should be complete.
With an oil and filter change is it 1.7L of oil (uk), as the book quotes 'Imp. Quarts1.5,U.S. Quarts1.8' ?

1.7 Liters....

MY 08 TE 450 is FIXED

if you put that in...it's overfull. Next time I do my oil it will be 1.5L and then check from there. That's with filter change.

I had a number of the same problems you appear to have been having...this weekend, however, I took my husky out and rode on dunes and mud hills at Superstition Mountain OHV in California. My bike RIPPED through the sand and over the mud hills every bit as fast, but not quite as plush, as my Suzuki RMZ 450 does. Here's what I did..

Powerup kit...maybe diff...in UK..in US it's
Lambda sensor delete (O2 sensor plug)
Arrow exhaust
Air filter cage replacement (away from the nautilus looking thing)
2.2Ohm full rich map plug
remove throttle stop

it ran like crap, stalled, and decel popped like mad...turns out I had a partially clogged fuel filter. Put it on iBeat at the shop...and now it starts and runs like a champ.

BLEED THE FORKS!!! take the phillips screw out of the top of the forks with the bike on a service stand...it helps...30 seconds of hissing from the left tube...5 from the right...now the bike actually handles. Before it would climb out of ruts, clack teeth, land like a frozen carp...terrible...it's fixed now. Good luck...I'm pulling for ya!