48mm KYB fork set up.

I'm wondering what kind of oil level you guys are running in your twin chamber style KYB's.

I'm getting ready to dive into my TC250 forks and set them up better for off-road.

I'll probable open up the shock, too, but the fork is in most need, IMO. So, I'm going after it first to see how the bike reacts to very a more compliant fork.

The front end on my te 310 has never felt planted to me. I have been working on air (tire) pressure ( im at 13.5 psi now and it feels pretty good) and dampening to overcome it. I need help too! Maybe it's a tire issue?

You've got the open cartridge style Zooks. Slide them up a notch and make sure your shock sag is right.

I had Enduro Eng revalve my TC250 suspension for woods/XC riding and it is really, really good.

I don't doubt that they are good. What oil level are they set at?

Are the pressure springs the same as a '05 Yamaha, or are they like the '06 Yamaha fork?

The 2010 TE 310 has the twin cartridge forks (leftovers)

The fork springs are .43xx, so it is almost a .44 if I remember right. I think my outer oil is at 325cc. MXA one time said they are the same fork as the '07 Yamaha YZ.

I had LT racing do my suspension when the bike was new and I can not say enough good things about it. That is the first thing people notice about my TXC, not the weight, motor, or how it handles, it is always the suspension feels so good. On my old '08 TE 450 that had another suspension shop work on before I owned the bike(nobody who advertises here), I and other people could not ride it. I tried myself to do springs thinking that is all that was wrong. It still sucked and I was blaming the open chamber Zokes. Les did his magic and I could ride that 450 as fast as anything in the tight woods or high speed chop.

Sorry got off subject here. The KYB's are awesome once set up to your liking. Mine stock felt like they had a mid stroke spike to them where they were a touch harsh. The closed chamber zokes that I ride now seem to hold themselves up in the 1/4 part of the stroke a little too much and takes me a while to get used to it. They are all good forks once set up though. That is what is fun about riding to me now is thinking on what is going on with suspension and how to make it better.

I have softer pressure springs in mine for sure but the big springs are stock.

I went with 1.3kg/mm pressure springs, 5wt. RFS in the cartridge, ATF in the outer chamber, stock springs and dropped a pile of face shims with a slight shuffle.

Just finished it so I'll have to see how it works next week.


BTW- Anybody know the working range of the fork oil level? I know 325cc is what's in the manual, but what is the tunning range for this style fork? Min. / Max. ?

300cc. Set up for 165lb intermediate enduro. 42's in forks, 5.2 on shock. I don't feel rocks smaller than a softball at all.

I'll have to try the 300cc and see what it's like.

FYI- When I opened my shock, after two rides, the nitrogen chamber had a large amount of very emulsified oil in it, and the oil in the shock was emulsified, too.

Looked like the separating piston may have been leaking by, or the shock just wasn't assembled right.

I converted mine to a bladder, so it's no big deal, but it may be something to look for on the standard shock.

Hope you get it sorted! You're speaking way beyond my knowledge level on the internals I used Les's worksheet for the info above. It really is a magic carpet ride and just absorbs pretty much everything instead of deflecting. The closed chamber KYB's were better stock than the open chamber Zokes stock before any work was done on them for sure.

Les seems to have a really good following. My WR250 was done by Les when I got it and it was really good.

The KYB fork is really nice to work with, as is the Sachs shock. The bikes come with some really good components, for sure, but I haven't kept up on the Twin Chamber style KYB development, so I've got to do some catching up.

Another thing to note about Les's tuning is that he does NOT convert the shock into a bladder system. I couldn't really tell you the difference as I have never ridden a bike with a bladder setup. But what I do know is that I sent my suspension to him and it's super plush now.

Good luck with the project and you're a better man than me for digging into it. I don't have the time or patience for it. Maybe one day.

The huskies seem to track better with a skinny front tyre-go motoz with extra heavy duty tube and run at about 10-12 psi.

I've had that same feeling about my Huskys, too, but I'm running the tubliss systems.

I'm just a bladder guy, for several reasons.

Did you ever make any progress with these forks in the last 2 yrs? I can't even find the company web site or an owners manual on the web ...

I've got an 010 TC250 (maybe 50mm dual chambers ?) now and I'd like to change the oil in them if nothing else ...

Do the inner chambers need bleeding such as the Marzocchi brand dual chambers?

No, they are much easier to bleed than the zooks. Pretty much like a Showa TC, if that helps.

I found this on the showa TC inner chamber: (sound familiar?)

So I followed the best directions I could find when re-assembling the cartridge, which is to fill the cartridge with oil most of the way, cycle the rod for a few minutes to work out all the bubbles, get the oil level high up near the overflow holes at the top, force the top cap/compression valve down into the oil bath allowing it to push out the excess, then cycling the damper until I'm blue in the face to somehow purge out the rest of the air (how exactly does that part work?). I guess it must just squeeze past the ICS piston o-ring and BV o-ring.


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What about the outer chambers? I'm guessing I can break these forks open and at least see the insides without doing too much damage ... And then change the outer chamber oil ... Is breaking in the forks and changing this oil as simple as it sounds?

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No pointer to any manuals on these?