FE/FC 501 Initial throttle snap

G'day Guys, I have been lurking around for a little bit since buying the Husky fe501 a couple of months back.
Got to say I am more than happy with the bike, it is by far the best machine I've owned.
I'm located in Australia, so not sure what map etc that means it is fitted with from standard. But I find in the tight stuff, the initial crack of the throttle to be very harsh & aggressive, then it smooths out into that very usable power curve that I love. In the open stuff that little rush of blood isn't to bad, but in the tight stuff it sure can cause a bit of grief! I have fitted the genuine map switch, the snap is reduced a bit in wet mode, but it is still there & enough to trouble me.

I guess my question is, can this initial snap be tuned out?

Thanks in Advance.

Shouldn't bother you "Nutty". What a lot of us have done is just buy a new Aluminum Tube "G2 Ergonomics Throttle Tamer' . It will help tremendously and you don't have your wrist in an unfavorable position when it's pegged wide open at full throttle either.

You'll have to look up your specific model. They also have these throttles that have a selection of like 4 different cams for different uses.

This add is from Motorcycle Superstore. You can get them many more places too of course. Maybe cheaper too.

The end has a knock out plug with a bearing so you can easily use handguards without hacking the end off.

1. Hand Controls
2. Throttles
3. Street
4. G2 Ergonomics Tamer Throttle Tube

Tamer Throttle Tube


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Product Information

G2 Ergonomics Tamer Throttle Tube

• Smooths out the abrupt initial power delivery that can accompany some EFI
• Includes machined 6061 billet aluminum throttle tube with a knurled surface and a 400 cam

G2 tamer took it away on mine. It was my first mod. Go directly to the g2 website. I think you want the 400 cam version.

400 cam is the slowest pull to 1/2 throttle, but first where is your TPS set at??

I added the bestdualsport clutch weight to my 500exc and that did the trick for me.

I had a look in the dealer's diagnostic tool and there is only one map for the FE501 EU and AU. Don't know about US models and maps.
Even for aftermarket full exhaust system the map stays the same, from '14 to '16 models the map is also the same.
If someone wants to cross reference the map is: KM787EU14D0701.BLZ

Strange is that my bike doesn't have that throttle snap, mine's a '14 Australian model.

Personally I think a bit of that snapiness can be adjusted out at the Throttle cables by just reducing the factory setting of the specified cable slack carefully with the fuel tank off.

I did do the G2 Throttle tamer myself too and did the same thing when it was installed.

I like zero slack, no free play whatsoever, with positive full return.

Thanks for all your reply's, I really appreciate it, I will look into the G2 throttle tamer & let you know what the results are.
As for my tps, it's set at stock, I have not done anything on this part. When I took delivery, my dealer de-restricted everything except the dual cone baffle in the exhaust, but they told me to take it out to get it to run cooler, which I did after 10 hours & it certainly did run allot cooler after that.
Will do a search on the tps stuff tonight, is that something I can have the dealer adjust?

It's not really that big a deal, I'm more than happy with the bike, it just catches me out in the tight stuff occasionally & if I can iron it out, it will just make it that much better!
Thanks again to everyone for your help, it is appreciated!

+1 on the Throttle Tamer. Got the three cam option and installed the next slowest (200) from standard and it did the trick for me. Desmogged, unplugged and TPS at .65.

Don't touch the TPS! No need for it and mostly makes things worse! Don't!

I forgot to mention that I did drilled four 25mm holes in the side cover for more air to the inlet and that makes a heap of difference too.
Much smoother and more go.

What the dealer can do is reset the TPS values and the adaptive parameters in the ECU (with the diagnostic tool) and that makes it really smooth and run better.
Way to do this for the TPS is: warm the engine, adjust the idle to correct rpm, reset the tps values with the diagnostic tool. Let idle for 10 min to adapt the values again.
Anyway the directions are on the screen while he does it.
What it does is tell the ECU the correct voltages for closed and full throttle.

I did this to mine (as I have experience with KTM's and they are sometimes off) at first service and it's been smooth as.

I agree above with "bikesparky" don't mess with the TPS setting yourself unless you are having it done with the ECU diagnostic tool. You need to check the idle speed anyway and this is the way to do it properly. There's no reason other than that to mess with it. The airbox does initially gasp for air off idle than it lets loose. I have also drilled a few holes with a large unibit into the side panel up high and siliconed a piece of metal screen door mesh to keep out any flying debris. It does feel a bit more responsive.

I'm not too worried about the plastics. I have a few spare sets, Black, white and blue and I just recently got a spare set of KTM/Husaberg/Husqvarna OEM side panels for the airbox for only $14.00 a piece in Blue. They get scuffed up pretty quickly from my boots mud and the AZ desert.

Hold it. You say don't touch the TPS because it'll make things worse then you say to have the dealer do it and it'll be really smooth and better. You're confusing the world but I think you're saying is don't touch the TPS unless you can get the MV readings. If that's your point, I agree...too sensitive to guess. You need to get the MV tool or understand how to make one. Can't guess with these things.

Correct! Don't touch the TPS as you turn it arouns mechanically and move the idle, ignition map and fuel map out of kilter.
The dealer with the diagnostic tool doesn't touch the TPS itself. He only resets the voltage coming out of it as a minimum voltage for closed throttle and a maximum voltage for WOT.
The are sometimes a tiny bit off. It might cause the ecu to think you already opened the throttle a fair bit while really you just opened it a fraction, which accounts for the initial snap.

The diagnostic tool allows the dealer to delete the (voltage) values and when you let the bike idle for a couple of minutes it takes the voltage on correctly as fully closed throttle.

Maybe not explained very clearly but it's simple, just think of the throttle as the volume on the stereo, if the know is at zero and there is still music it's wrong. Or you have to turn it halfway up before there is sound...
All the diagnostic tool does is tell the ECU zero = no more music, start there!

I hear ya but with the tool, you get the MV reading which does in fact change the TPS setting if you choose to move it. How much to move it...various opinions but my personal max is .65 from an as delivered value of .58.

+1 Baritone, get the TPS tool ($29.99 on TT) to aid in setting the TPS at home. Unless you have a dealer that doesn't charge to do this and is right down the street. This is by far the best mod to do to a stock bike before any cams or holes are drilled. There is a limit where the voltage will not change running quality and can cause issues in certain conditions. Other then Best Duel Sports, I don't know of anyone over .68v. Most are around .64-.65v.

That is not the same thing! If done correctly with the diagnostic tool the "span" of the throttle is set properly which allows the full map settings from 0 to 100 % to be used.
Adjusting the TPS mechanically moves the whole lot across and you either loose the map at the bottom or at the top dependent if you dial in more or less voltage.

I just need to get a better understanding of the TPS.

I understand with the diagnostic tool if you delete the voltage value and let the engine idle, it will set itself for fully closed throttle, however, is there a value you set with the diagnostic tool for WOT, and if there is, what value would that be ??

Yes correct!
The WOT value is set when you open the throttle max. The tool tells you on the screen what to do.

If I can I'll do a tutorial as I can use the tool at the dealer.
Problem is I got a broken collarbone from a low speed stack and I can't drive the car or bike.
Stuck at home unless someone takes me cruising.

Sorry for the delayed reply, but here's the update so far.
My dealer has been more than willing to help, although was reluctant to touch the tps initially. But once he hooked it up to the diagnostic unit & found that it was under the required tolerance for the tps by 0.1 of a volt he was more than happy to tinker with it as long as we stayed out of the red & in the green.
So what was happening when I cracked the throttle was it would open up, let plenty of air in, then there was a split second delay for the fuel to come on, causing it to be very lean momentarily before it leveled out, hence the initial snap.
Long story short, he adjusted the tps still with in Husky's recommended tolerances but to the richer end of the scale & it is by far allot better.
Very happy they were willing to help & in the end adjust the tps with out me having to.
Thanks again for all your help, it's very much appreciated.