510 TE 1984 - Quick tidy up

I have decided to tidy up the 510 I purchased recently, just basically giving it a full service and a freshen up.

I pulled the front axle and found it was nicely greased so it appears that basic maintenance was carried out by its last owners even tho its basically been parked up for 20 years.

The hub and shoes are a bit gunky but not too bad. A quick sand and scrub and they will be fine.

The forks are very boingy and a shocking top out is occurring so I suspect the damping washers are knackered so off come the fork sliders (seals are required). Looks like these bolts haven't been spannered much at all!

I measured the fork tubes and found they are 740mm from top to bottom. They are approximately 100mm longer than the WR 400 (guestimate) and the tubes are extended up in the triples some 5 cm. The 510 damper rods are 270mm long. Are there longer tubes in these 40 mm series?? I thought they were the same length thru all models.?

the forks had ATF in them and the rhs was missing a lot of fluid hence the topout noises. the seals must be shagged on that side. I will hit Phil at Husqvarnaparts.com up for some of his leakproof specials (unsolicited plug there Phil ).

looking at the damper rods, there is a fair bit of marking on the LHS lower section so it has been assembled incorrectly at some stage in the past.

There is some impressive goo in the bottom of the tubes so that will take some cleaning! A bit of fencing wire and a bit of rag will shine them up inside...
nice and clean!



Check out those rubber boots!, like new ones...

crap in the tubes....not a great pic!

Need the valves checked and the cam chain tension checked and or the chain replaced as per advice from the guru's here

Im looking to get the engine filter out and check / replace it with a stainless version but I see the nut is quite worked over so I will need to replace that. Is it common with later models and available over the counter?

that's it for tonight, its a brass monkey nite coming up so the TV and heater is looking good.

what is a brass monkey nite , sounds like a technical term I'd like to know so i can use it when i speak to my customers.

man that bike looks like its in good shape...it will be sorted in no time

BSC bearings (I think are oz wide) sell diamond chain, around $100 will buy you 10' (3 cam chains), best quality only one master link included. they may do shorter lengths.
its so easy changing the cam chain with a masterlink!
the oil filter magnet nut is unique to the a/c motors, and are always worked over... easiest fix is to machine it round and weld / silver solder on another nut - to suit 19 mm spanner.
I swapped forks for the lower wr type , and have lowered and revalved the back shocks too. details are in an old resto on this site

its an old Pommie seafaring comment (correct me if im wrong any one in old blighty) but comes from the saying "it cold enough to freeze the balls of a brass monkey" I might wiki it and check.

"weld a nut onto my pristine engine!!" ill take to a mate who is a wizard with this stuf and he will come up with a suitably exotic and aesthetic solution... (philistines)

The fork sliders are the WR type, just the tubes are longer, got me puzzled does anyone know if the tubes are longer in cr forks?

thanks for the tip on the camchain . I will get my bearing shop man onto it. any idea on the pitch and size? or will I just take the old one in for comparison

thanks for the comments.

sorry about the bold... a major fluff up happened and I cant get rid of it? stupid computer (operator)

I will look at chain box for the size, don't take yours out! use it to thread the new one in...!
You are only machining down the old nut from hex to round and making it hex again with the bigger nut (Bigger nut wont round off.. but use the same for an invisible repair if you prefer !
I will give you fork measurements too.

thanks! I need all the help I can get....cheers

the number you need I believe is 06B, on the box and on the chain.
interestingly the 610/570 motor uses a smaller chain, so engineers must have felt it was oversized at some stage..

wow look at those spokes, pristine. must have been stored nice and dry. no way it would look like that if it had in coastal queensland!

yep, suprizingly good... nice to have an old dunger that's brand new for a change!!

Gave the 510 a few more hours on sunday and came to grief with the steering stem! I cleaned all the pooh out of the fork sliders and popped the seals out of them with no drama and no marks on the rim for a change, then pulled the damper tubes out. both damping washers are a little bent so I will replace them. with the fork sliders off, the steering was a little notchy indicating the steering stem bearing were U/S so I launched into that. and found I couldn't get to the steering stem upper nut so off came the risers and bars, speedo etc. pulled the fork tubes out, got the triple clamp off the top ok and unwound the adjusting collar without marking it and gave the assembly a tap.....nothing, a few further taps and it was still stuck fast....I was just dumbfounded... last year I spent 3 weeks getting a head stem out of a Moto villa and it was eventually convinced to part company with the head stem with a block of alloy and 4 lb mash hammer fairly well delivered. id never had this issue ever and now it was two in a row..what the!

so after some deliberate hidings with the nylon hammer, I got the claw and the block of wood out but just ended up with wood everywhere!.

In case it let go I wound the adjusting collar back on a few turns and this is where it went wrong, I placed my nylon hammer end on to the top of the stem and laid into it with a few hefty blows and it started to move..success! encouraged I gave it a few more good ones for good luck and the hammer skipped down the stem and wacked the collar, pushing it cockeye on the threads .. by the time I tapped it back off it had left thread everywhere so I need to get the stem thread cleaned with a die and get a new collar!!. as a consolation prize, I pulled the exhaust of to repaint the pipes and in trying to get the end cap off the muffler I got a garden stake jammed down the tube! it was going not so well!!! I decided to retire "hurt" and leave it till another day! got pics but not ready to upload...

Sometimes it is right to just walk away and come back to things another day

Enduro fork tubes are 715mm long with the mx ones being 750mm.

Compress the forks completely before tightening the bottom bolts so the damping rod is more centred in the slider when you do it up. This is what causes the gouging on the rod under full compression... There is a special tool to stop the damper rod rotating when you do this. You can make one by modifying an old socket to fit the pair of flats on the top of the damper rod.

Don't over-tighten the M8 bolts, or you may crack the washer/collar. We replace this collar with our 'special 'O' ring sealed part' . Make sure you use High tensile bolts too, as if you look closely - you may find they have 'stretched'...

Hope this helps!

Andy.

Cheers Andy, that's an answer to a question ive wondered about for some time. the 84WR 400 has the shorter ones while the 84TE has the longer tubes, not sure why. typical husky I guess. at least I can grab some CR sliders and rods and give it some air between the wheel and guard if necessary.

well the sliders and legs are std wr, they are pulled waaay up in the clamps so the brake cable doesn't catch on the speedo at full extension.. the speedo must go!

pulled the exhausts off and gave them a rough sand and a coat of satin black as well as a quick touch up on the fins which were a little flakey in parts. looks much tidier.

made up a couple of new end caps (no pics cos they are RAG!!) will open up the end of the cans that's for sure. I want to keep the nipples on the original end caps as they were the first things to go back then.

may get a professional job done at a later date.

doing a few service items then maybe get her out for a short spin..... woo hoo!!

Does anyone have the stock jetting for the del or to 40lbs carb? Thanks, trying to get my 86 a/c 510 started. We have a fix for the twin shoe brakes, a new relaying rod is much stronger and use ferodo race compound shoes.

Not A/C but carb 40.

Got the cans sprayed and fitted everything up then gave the tappets a check over and tightened the camchain tensioner a tad.

Fired her up yesterday 3 kicks cold...like a bike that starts well. motor much quieter and the response is better. will ride it today for a test run.

i take it that its only a matter of time before we hear those twin cans on some gopro?

my thoughts exactly! was hoping to get a spin in today but a few Coronas popped over the horizon and I lost interest in anything else for a while(other than the camp oven chook roast!) gotta luv fathers day and kids that cook!!

and here


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30liPlnuGTc