53 tooth sprocket?

Current bike 12012 xlite TE310 13/50 set up. I need more low end to climb steep rocky hills. The 13/50 didn't cut it. Anyone have a 53 tooth rear? does it fit with same chain lenth as 50 tooth? Does it wear out the back chain guide?

Going to a 12T front sprocket will wear down the slider as I have read, so this is not an option.

Any comments or experience with this is appreciated.

It may or may not fit with the chain depending on where the adjustment is. I think sprocket specialists are about the only ones that make a 52. It could wear the back chain guide a little more.

Get a Rekluse...?

I've been running a 12t (12z-51z) for about 5 months with absolutely no problems or chain slider wear (haven't looked at the chain guide). First gear is almost perfect (I'd like it just a tiny bit lower- but I'll live with it) and sixth gear is comfortable at around 39mph. No shit... and that sux. Top speed is probably around 70+mph but the motor feels kinda high-strung at this speed, like the rod is gonna come shooting through the skid plate at any minute. I blast it like this for like 5 seconds total before letting off- seriously.

There's a pic of a slider on some thread around here where the guy ran a 12 tooth sprocket; he didn't see any abnormal wear. later- Found It!

I've heard the 12tooth rumor for years (decades?) but have never seen the problem. I don't doubt that on some bike with the counter shaft sprocket a good distance from the swingarm pivot there would be a problem... I just haven't seen it.

So it is an option: Go for it!

I also run the 12-51 combo.. No sign of slider wear,I read the same thing some where so I ordered a replacement from Halls for like $15:00 it's still in my parts cabinet with well over a 100 hrs on the stock slider with the 12 tooth on the front...

thanks for the info guys the recluse is definitely out ($ and time)I will consider the 12 tooth or maybe a 52. Is the nut easy to take off the front countershaft? Mine doesn't have a c clip like the older te310s. Do you put it in gear and spin it off with an airgun?

Do you have the TXC injector and ECU.?
The bike rips with these.

It takes almost double the torque to remove the nut than required to refasten it. I used a tool I had just for the task, and even then, a bitch to remove. Breaker bar and my floor jack handle as a breaker bar extension was needed. Even this tool was not perfect. Heavy person on the rear brake, wood block in wheel, etc... I hesitate to put it in gear.

Unlike John, for me the nut was no problem (22mm IIRC, can't remember the torque but probably 25-30lbs). I probably used a socket & flex bar or a box end. I don't remember any drama. I'm not sure I'd use an impact wrench on this application- unless I had to, I guess. Steady, smooth pressure until it releases; the same in reverse until you reach your final torque (guddentihtez). Put it in 3rd or 4th gear like you said; maybe apply the brake.

I don't like a nut on the counter shaft either; I want a e-clip (or c-clip or circlip) or the small bracket that bolts to the sprocket itself. Basically, anything that allows the sprocket to float axially on the shaft. And the stock nut retaining tab (?) is way too thick for my taste. Very hard to bend; pretty hard to "unbend". I probably used a big flat punch, but I don't recall.

Johnrg- how does that sprocket holder work... do you put a bolt in the hole that corresponds to the number of teeth on your sprocket I'd guess? do you like it, and how much was it?

Rizzkid- good luck.

As far as unbending the tab... A chisel initially to get a gap and then a large screwdriver blade will bend enough to seat a socket. The sprocketstuff.com plate works as you said. Comes with screws and nuts that enter through the back so the smooth surface of the spacers rest in the sprocket and kept in by the screw head. The ends rest on the swingarm so all the force is on it. The spacers crunched on mine and the swingarm is uneven welds where it wants to sit, so had to carefully line it up and not have it slip. Worked OK on the chain slider but they made me a custom version with an extra screw to hold it away form the frame to stop slipping as a test (I told them it had some issues and was not perfect on all bikes). That version you can see in the above photo, lower right, as the 310 frame has a void in that area. In any case it's $19.95... http://sprocketstuff.com/Sprocket_Stuff/Sprocket_Stuff_-_Motorcycle_Sprocket_Tool.html

I do like the tool and better the spacers crack/crumble than the sprocket. If yours is not on at the extreme torque mine was they probably won't do it. To hold the thing in place maybe put some wood blocks alongside to keep it perfectly in place/aligned.

Not the same bike but similar chassis my husky 144s I ran a 12 tooth and it worked fine...

yep- 'cept I use a punch instead of a screwdriver. But my point was that this tab is over-engineered and over-built.

BTW, if I can help it, I normally don't take my chain off when replacing my counter sprocket.

Thanks for the info- I appreciate it.

1/2" cordless impact to remove.. And just a slight tap back to install and bend the flat washer over ... EZ

They probably use loktite on the nut. Does anyone know if a 52 tooth sprocket will work with 112 link chain? I have some room in the adjusters with the current 50 tooth. No I have the 4 pt injector and have tuned with ibeat

I tried a 52 with the stock chain and it wore a hole in the mud flap with a 110/100 Bridgestone.. Installed a new flap and a 51 and it doesn't rub now,don't know the number of lengths in stock chain... Sorry

Quite a few miles on mine now, and no real issues with the 13/53 setup.
I'd go to a 12/53, but the gearing for the stuff I do now is about right.
But very buzzy on the road, so I limit myself to a 50/55mph cruise. I don't feel the urge to go faster (chicken!)
I made the mistake of buying a cheaper (not cheap, just less expensive) chain, and it is now goosed.
New Regina chain ordered, and should be here tomorrow, ready for the weekend (along with the chain roller that has a habit of seizing up - mainly due to all the water and mud I subject it to, as the top one is fine)

Mike

Mike any problem with wear on the lower chain guard by the rear sprocket? How many links on your chain. Mine is stock at 112 with current 13/50 and I'm concerned it may be too short going to 13/52 or 13/53. Current tire is about 1/2 inch away from mud flap

My stock chain was 106 links with a 14/40. I'm running 12/51 currently and using a 112 links (Husky part#8000A6261... this Regina o-ring chain is STILL on sale at Hall's for $49.99). I don't think you're gonna have a problem with 1 or 2 teeth on the rear; I have plenty of room for adjustment.

My mudflap wore through with the bike completely stock: chain, sprockets, tire (Michelin). BTW, it's $8 for a new one at BMP's

My experience is that when I use a breaker bar with a cheater slid over it to loosen a fastener, that's when I'm most likely to shear/break something. I generally am less likely to break something using an impact gun. YMMV Is my thinking backwards on this issue?

I don't like giving the internals of a motor (drive train, crankshaft... and, in the end, valve train) the extremely hard (although very short duration) and high frequency impacts of uncalibrated guns used at "home".

This is a personal bias- because millions of motors are successfully put together every year with every sort of impact drivers. Your thinking is the conventional and accepted methodology; not to worry.

You're also right in that the extra leverage of a cheater bar can get you into trouble. I hate to say this (because it sounds a little hippy-ish or new-age) but you almost have to listen to what the metal is telling you- 'specially stainless into aluminum, when using any hand tool.

confession: I have an impact wrench (rated at 1200ft/lbs?) that I use on occasion. I use impact sockets some of time, because I think they're better built and have a better fit.