Thought I'd throw up some photos in the interest of helping others with their research. First, the flashy bling.... PivotPegz...kinda pricey but they make shifting and braking while standing much easier. Unabiker...for when I treat my bike like a unabomber. For my Dove hands... I used the socket technique for putting neat holes in new grips. MotionPro sells a tool for doing this but it seems like something I wouldn't use often enough. My solution for preventing the left grip from being a heat sink. Apply heat to the big honkin' shrink tube and then apply the heated grip element to it. The throttle side doesn't need anything because of the plastic tube. Looks like a regular taillight... But plug-n-play Tailblazer to the rescue....pricey indeed but less expensive than the time I was rear-ended by a big ass Ford Bronco. Tailblazer is generous enough to include a spare bulb. MUCH brighter than the sleepy little "Giovanni-ate-too-much-pasta-for-lunch" model. The LED indicators are from Sicass Racing. I recommend going with www.electrosport.com . They have the same exact indicator for MUCH less. Here's the Electrosport relay I used. The Sicass Racing relay came with 3 wires. Unfortunately, my public education couldn't compute what to do with 3 wires when the OEM loom only had 2. Anyways, the blinker fluid in the Electropsort relay is 15W40 so the blinkers don't flash as fast. Note I plugged my blue and black OEM wire into the 49a terminal & the red and green goes to 49....might not matter but at least it puts to rest any question.
The Electrosport relay. U$D4.78 on the left from George (uptite) & U$D8.00 on the right. EXACT SAME FILTER down to where the dimples are on the little bypass valve. Lynx fairing from www.britanniacomposites.com like Hoder, Geek and several others....I opted for the HID low-beam and halogen high-beam. I riveted my ballast to the front of the Lynx...kinda tidies up things, IMO. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ is where I picked up my, uhhhh, fuze block. Another pricey bit but it allows you to battery power or switch power stuff from one point. Very chic stocking stuffer for the OCD Beemerphile in your motorcycling family. Some folks have had difficulty installing a Lynx with an HID low beam (on the rider's right) and interference with the OEM location for the horn (rider's right on the triple clamp). I simply pushed it back as you can see here. Plenty of room for the backside of the HID housing. Speaking of switched power and the horn...this little black wire (OEM to main bulb) is hot until you switch on the high beam so it didn't pan out as a good candidate for switched power. I want switched power regardless of what I'm doing with my lights so I tapped into the horn wire to power my fuzeblock. Another good option is to run a line back to the taillight. However, with the Euro switch.... ...there's no power to the tailight AT ALL (even while braking) until you turn on the main lamp. I don't like that. The European switch on my KTM gives an intermediate option of just turning on the taillight. Even when the KTM taillight is off, if you brake the brakelight illuminates. Must've been time for an espresso when Giuseppe the Husky engineer was designing the wiring diagram. Anyways, I like being able to turn my lights off if I'm riding in the winter and running a vest and the grips to minimize the load on the battery. So I picked up the Euro switch from Halls; the part number's in the catalog. Another pricey bit....around U$D85, IIRC. K&N Technologies manufactures a switch but you have to diddle around with re-wiring it to a compatible Molex connector for the OEM loom so I made my wallet do the hard work. The wire running out of the left of the switch is from the heated grip. Here's the dash to my Lynx. BION, I can see the OEM instrument cluster just fine although it appears somewhat hidden. I can also easily access the button on the left of the instrument cluster. If you tear down your bike, you'll find you can coax some slack out of the OEM loom although it (the loom) was CLEARLY an afterthought on the 610.....must've been 2 for 1 on canolis from the street vendor that day in Varese. When I installed the switch for my heated grips, I used a socket to press on the bezel rather than the switch itself. Geek beat me to the punch regarding "Il Farclismo" and bought an "all-in-one" temp gauge, battery monitor and clock thingy which is to the left in the photo above. But where I put the temperature sensor is where I earn my hep-daddy cool points .....above the fender and attached underneath the fairing. www.highwaydirtbikes.com is where I sourced my handguard system. I made the upper extensions from the plastic liner from an old pair of Moto-Sport Luggage Yukon II panniers. www.systemtechracing.com for the fork bleeders which I use frequently. Shock Sox for my fork seals....for some reason I dislike servicing my forks so anything I can do to avoid it is a winner. Carb filter from George at Uptite. Clay at 7602 Racing makes one which I like better because it's more easily stowed I think. Some serious bling here.... If you go all out and get the Leo Vince titanium double soy latte mochachino with one packet of Splenda and low-fat whipped cream and cinammon on top, you'll need to put your front fender to the bench grinder. The LV header pipes sit higher and the fender rubs against them. I would've finished all this ealier but I was distracted last weekend with a spectacular view of the last leg of the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb... Looking down towards Devil's Playground which is the last place you can park (unless you get a summit pass but I'm not that important so I hiked up). Looking up towards the finish.... Didn't get any video of the bikes but I did get some of a coupla of cagers... So, having finished my bike and feeling inspired by the insane riding/driving at the PPIHC, I took the 610 out for a shakedown ride on Old Stage Road above Colorado Springs. Dirt sweepers and plenty of washboards at 60-70 mph along with some first gear trail work on the 4x4 side trails......S'ALL GOOD Oh, yeah....some other doo-dads.... Wolfman tank bag Dirtbagz (Ranger model I think....bigger size anyways) Ricochet engine guard from www.motosportz.com Front axle nut from www.motosportz.com Front & rear axle nut wrench from www.motosportz.com Longer clutch cable from www.motosportz.com Pro-taper contour bar No-Toil filter Oil filler plug from George at Uptite
Great job and info. Your attention to detail is spot on. Very impressive work. Thanks for the tips. Jerry
Nice setup you got there. Is that the 2 1/8" lower bar clamp? I've been trying to get an idea whether the taller clamp would get i the way of the cockpit view when used with the Lynx. Kinda surprised you didn't place the grip heater switch on the HDB clamp. The Britannia Composites site says, if both light are halogen then if switched to high beam then the low beam light shuts off, whereas if both are HID, they both stay on when high beam is switched on. What about HID low and Halogen high... Do both stay on? Also, I just ordered a tail light, signals, and turn signal flasher module from BD. They told me that even with the module that I'd might have issues with the dash signal indicator. I had previously been lead to believe that the only problems occurring with the indicator stemmed from using LEDs at all 4 corners without the flasher module. Not being terrible savvy electrically I had trouble following what he was saying. Any ideas what he meant. He said he'd experienced some issues on some KTMs and thought Huskys might be the same.
Yeah, I like to stand a lot so I got the tallest riser. Paul @ HDB makes the handlebar clamp with an offset...I couldn't set the offset forward which is ideal for a standing position. It also quickens the steering a bit. The offset to the rear is minimal so you're almost at a neutral position for the handlebar. Too much work to rewire a coupla push-button switches. If my grip heater kit had come with a coupla push buttons, no doubt they would have gone there on the top clamp. Yep Yeah, Sicass told me the same thing and sold me a little resistor kit...looked like a PITA to splice in. IIRC, the Sicass relay was ~U$D23 or so. The Electrosport relay was around U$D12. I returned the Sicass resistor kit and the way-too-expensive 3 wire relay they sold me and bought the Electrosport relay. The dash indicator light works fine and the indicators all work fine, too .
Good tutorial Nothingclever. Those vids are pretty cool too. Wish I could have gone. Those cars are pretty impressive.
Yeah, sorry I called so late with the free ticket....I didn't get them until late on Thursday and I spent all day Friday on that stuff that always gets in the way of my priorities....work.
Great instal of the Lynx and some really nice bling !! A couple of points raised about the Lynx which I hope I can clarify. 1) We have solved the problem of the low beam lamp interferring with the OEM horn location, buy simply switching the lights around. The High beam lamp is much shorter and allows room for the horn to stay in the OEM location. Not sure why I didn't think of this in the first place !! 2) I think I need to clarify the lighting options better our website. Our wiring harnesses are always configuered so that the low beam remains on when the high beam is activated. The 610 is blessed with easily enough electrical output to power the standard Halogens, even if you run a heated vest and grips as well. However, the 610 is the exception ! Most DS bikes ( DRZ, DR650, 690's, X challenge etc) seem to cope OK as long as you're not using High beam for long periods of time (which is the case with most users). But we do recomend having the HID low (35w draw) on the low beam, if these bikes are also trying to run heated gear. Obviously, the HID upgrade also pushes out at least 50% more light, so some guys go for this anyway, but it's NOT essential to do so. As a rough guide for the 610 (which has particularly appaling OEM lighting), this is how the Lynx lighting compares with stock: Standard Halogens running on low -------------------- 200% better Standard Halogens running on High (with low on as well)-- 350% better HID running on low -------------------------------------300% better HID running with Halogen High (as per Nothingclever's) --- 400% better Twin HID running on High beam ------------------------------- Hope this helps ! Ian
From the rear. Front shot. Close-up. I rode again today down at Penrose Off Road Park which for the most part is pretty tame. I went for the hard sections and found PLENTY of loose rock, square edge rock and drainage cuts running across the trail....nothing fell off or vibrated loose so I guess I can relax and enjoy the ride now . I should've snapped some front page pics out on the trail but for some reason I get focused on the throttle versus the shutter . On the way home, it rained. That little fairing is THE BOMB .
Hmmmmm…… I can see where that will be of help running away from banditos.......or things with flashing lights…. Very nice NothingClever
How is the fairing holding up off road? Is it getting pounded to death? Nice set up by the way, Sethro
